Replacing felt and laths

[Chaang]

Well mine have drooped a little too much in one place but it is snowing and my hands were freezing!

Membrane and laths on now, just working out how to sort out the position for the bottom lath. I took a row of "half tiles" off and cannot remember how they were positioned.

 

[RedHerring2]

Are you sure you are using tiles? If so, are they plain tiles?
Normally all the rows of tiles would be full tiles if they are interlocking tiles.
Slates or plain tiles require a starter course of half tiles, often a tile or slate turned sideways as long as the sidelap can be maintained.

If you are using interlocking tiles that don't need a starter course you should have worked out your gauge for the correct number of full-tile rows.

Your lowest course of tiles/slates should sit on the top of the fascia board at the lower edge, overhanging by about 50mm into the middle of the gutter. But sometimes it is necessary to fit a batten to obtain the correct lie of the bottom row.

The position of batten that support that first row then becomes obvious.

 

[Chaang]

They are sandstorm tiles.

I found a big chunk from the bottom row that was cemented together and worked it out from that. There was a half tile that is just sat on a batten that is right on the edge of the fascia board.

How far should they overhang the walls at the sides? On the main house they overhang a lot but I think these were pretty flush when I took them off.

Cheers,

Mick

 

[RedHerring2]

They are sandstorm tiles.

I found a big chunk from the bottom row that was cemented together and worked it out from that. There was a half tile that is just sat on a batten that is right on the edge of the fascia board.

How far should they overhang the walls at the sides? On the main house they overhang a lot but I think these were pretty flush when I took them off.

Cheers,

Mick

At the verges there are two techniques:
1. Tile overhang by about 50mm, with a cemented edge (that's laid on a cemented edge, not just pointed up afterwards) onto an undercloak, possibly fibreboard or similar. This undercloak goes under the battens. Battens should be stopped short of the edge by at least 50mm so that cement is not in contact with the ends of the battens.
2. Dry verge tile. This is a plastic type covering that covers the verge. Battens can be taken right up to the edge and tiles often end on the same edge. Dry verge tiles fix into ends of battens.

The starter or half tile should be fixed in a similar manner to the rest of the tiles.

 

[Chaang]

Whats the easiest way to cut my half tiles?

 

[Alastairreid]

Does the verge marry into the existing roof above? if it does you need to replicate the detail.

Cut the tiles with a grinder with a diamond blade.

 

[Chaang]

How about dressing tiles? Some have cement (especially the 1.5's from the edges that i am short of).

Tried with hammer and chisel but am breaking them.

Angle grinder?

Cheers,

Mick

 

[Alastairreid]

Angle grinder?

Angle grinder

 

[Chaang]

Right, Im off to get an angle grinder.

Is it ok using cement in this weather? Its sleeting here now, will it still go off?

I have been told to nail a board down the edges where I am cementing the tiles on, is this correct?

Mick

 

[Alastairreid]

http://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm

Ideally the verges should be bedded as you go but unless the temperature is around 3c-4c and not forecast to drop in the next 24hrs i would just dry run the verges and point up later.

 

[Chaang]

Do i really need "under-cloak"? Its only a 2m x 2m coalhouse?

 

[RedHerring2]

Without an undercloak there's nothing for the cement to 'sit on'.
So you won't have sealed verges. that means birds, insects and, worse, wind, can get under the tiles and into the roof space.

 

[Chaang]

Right, just been and bought some. Managed to clean the cement off the tiles easily with the angle grinder.

Weather permitting I will finish off tomorrow!

 

[Chaang]

Just read those articles and want to make sure I have this correct.

I am going to slide the undercloak under the battens so that their is 50mm of baton on the cloak.

I will trim my underlay so that it finishes under the cloak.

Mortar goes on top (6:1) of the cloaks for 50mm, there is then a 50mm gap before the batten.

Tiles are then places on the mortar.

Should the undercloak finish flush with the brick or overhang? The tiles will be overhanging by 50mm.

Any tips for applying the mortar? I suspect this is one bit I could make a real mess of!

Cheers,

Mick

 

[catlad]

The under cloak over hangs the brick work by the same distance as the tiles, you choose 30-50mm is normal, but as mentioned earlier by Alistair if it meets up with the main roof then go with that.