Replacing Open Fire with a Log / Coal Burner

Hi Guys
Looking at our problem here we have two options, a HETAS engineer might come to sign off a stove he hasnt installed and charge you around £50 to "sign it off". Cheaper to ring your council planning office, they'll come out and sign you off and probably no charge.
 
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We live in a semi. Our neighbours have installed a log burner. When they light it we have smoke coming into our rooms. Even the bedroom (upstairs) smells smoky. Should they have installed some sort of liner and/or extended their chimney?
 
This needs addressing urgently: it sounds as if the flue next door is leaking into your house, leaving you exposed not only to nuisance but also to carcinogenic smoke and the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning. Your neighbour should not use the log burner in this dangerous condition; the flue needs lining.
 
as long as the flue is clean and fire proof and you seal the stack from the pipe and I would put a T in before you seal it off as you will need excess to sweep the flue I have fitted quite a few
 
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thomasw, what exactly do you mean by a 'T'? Trying to DIY a log burner in time for Christmas, and starting to wonder if it would be worth paying a professional? How much would you charge for installation etc, if you don't mind me asking? Just don't want to get ripped off!

Logs Nottingham
 
thomasw, what exactly do you mean by a 'T'? Trying to DIY a log burner in time for Christmas, and starting to wonder if it would be worth paying a professional? How much would you charge for installation etc, if you don't mind me asking? Just don't want to get ripped off!

Logs Nottingham

you will need to seal the stack off before you fit the burner with a fire proff board you can get one from any building suppliers about £10 ,you will then have to cut a round whole the same size of your flue the T is a peace of flue pipe with a cap on it so you can have your chimney swept other wise you have to remove the fire when you get it swept .as you have to remove all sorts of things from the fire to sweep it ,, if I was fitting a log burner and the flue was ok I would charge around £145 ,if you do get one remember they are cast and only have low fires for a week or so and build them up biger a week at a time as if you just build a big fire the cast wil crack , but the company you are getting the fire from will have all that info in a packet inside your fire Hope this is helpfull for you have a nice xmass Tom
 
We don't have a T at the bottom of the flue because there wouldn't be room to get a rod up. Our chimney sweep who installed the stove, put a small rodding port up at the top of the pipe before it passes through the register plate.
 
We don't have a T at the bottom of the flue because there wouldn't be room to get a rod up. Our chimney sweep who installed the stove, put a small rodding port up at the top of the pipe before it passes through the register plate.


That would be ok thanks for your reply
 
HY all, I have read this topic with interest, I was a master sweep for ten years before I retired. I have seen people use chipboard for register plates and also seen people who have been ripped off by so called approved fitters and have also refused on many occasions to attempt to clean flues because my doing so would condone the use of extremely dangerous apliances.
Hetas, ermm yes, it is here to help those less knowledgable about combustion appliances and the effinciency of them and the safety aspect.
One thing however does annoy me greatly, that is, from October 2010 all appliances ie, stoves should be fitted with a minimum of a six inch flue, this is extremely shortsighted as far as the smaller woodburners are concerned the problem lies when the unburnt gasses going up the flue cool down and decide to turn back into a solid (tar, Creosote, cellulose) call it what you want.
A burner designed for use with a four inch flue, of which their are many, can not possibly keep a six inch 23 foot long twin walled stainless steel liner hot enough to keep the gasses gassious, sooner or later a ring of tar will develop and then one day when the burner is turned up flat out for a longer period than normal, that tar will indeed catch fire, the result if this happens while the occupants are asleep could prove disastrous, the tar on fire quickly expands therefore blocking the pathway for gasses to escape via there normal route, and if the stove is not in tip top condition gasses will pour out fron the burning chamber into the living quarters, need i say more.
The problem with installing a woodburner into an older chimney pre 1960's, before the advent of ceramic liners being fitted as standard, is that most home do it yourselfers goe for the heapest way out, ie, good stove, short stack pipe and a register plate, there is no way on this planet that the unburnt gasses will remain gassious in such an old brick built flue, it just never gets hot enough and sure as ice is ice, your looking at a chimney fire on your hands sooner rather than later, plus the fact the old brick built chimneys were lined with morter, which instantly started to fall off as soon as the first open fire was lit many many moons ago, leaving the morter between the bricks the only seal between your bedrooms etc and dangerous gasses.
Just a quick one on the subject of t pipes, or more commonly known as t-traps. These are for two principle reasons, first and foremost, the t trap is designed so any soot and debris fall from the chimney liner goes past the flue outlet and into the bottom of the t-trap, preventing blockage from the fall out debris, secondly, it gives access for sweeping the flue, a good sweep with the neccesary equipment will find no problem entering and cleaning the flue from this low height, other restrictions may prevent this, but their is allways a way, One more note, those of you who have a pipe exiting your stove from the top, should check fortnightly the top baffle plate inside your stove for fallen debris which can slowley build up preventing a clear exit for the gasses to exit.
Have a warm and safe christmas!!!
 
OILMAN and SIDECAR JON are you qualified to give advice!!!!!!!!!!
All domestic combustion appliances are subject to Building Regulations. This is for the benefit of yourselves, and is not just a money grabbing exercise by the Building Control body.
Adequate ventilation and air replacement for the safe combustion process is required , fire risk to other buildings, fire risk to your home, locality of any combustible material to the flue ie floor joists etc,locality of windows etc to flue terminal, correct flue type for the combustion appliance etc,etc,etc are all issues which need to be satisfied for YOUR safety.

Another issue is conservation of fuel and energy, yes, again a building regulations issue, how do you know how efficient the proposed system will be???How do you know the appliance has been safely installed?????

Irrespective of whether it is a log burner or not IT IS A COMBUSTION APPLIANCE used for heating.
Once again i see misinformation being provided to persons using these types of forum, REMEMBER it will be YOU in court and not one of the persons whose enlightened advice you have followed.

SAFETY FIRST and if your not qualified in these matters then seek professional advice. A simple call to your local Building Control body is the best advice, were not monsters were here to help and protect you (some of you need protection from yourselves looking at some of the replies in this thread).

Well it would seem that you are qualified to give advice from what you say but as with all agencies such as yourself you seem to be reluctant to do so. The only input you have had is to dismiss others advice without actually trying to help the people out who have asked for it. At the end of the day if you are concerned about peoples safety and you have bothered to sign up to a forum which is there to help people then instead of saying what people cant do then why not point them in the right direction and give then qualified advice to make it safer for them?. I think I already know the answer to my question, Money. If you are not getting paid then you are not giving advice and that's the bottom line, the safety issue is of no interest to people like you. Help people out or push off!!!
 
1 post tacked on the end of a Six year old thread - :LOL: yaki da :mrgreen:
 

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