Replacing the Kitchen

[mdbalson]

Not electrical but that blue water pipe above the kitchen ceiling....did you lag it before boxing it in ?

You may find you get condensation on it that will drip onto the ceiling and create a damp patch.

Yes the blue water pipe for the outside hosepipe tap, has been lagged, before boxing it in.

 

[mdbalson]

Here are some more pics of the new electrics

Cables above the ceiling

5 downlights cables

3 downlights cables

Cables above the new ceiling

Fire hood above one of the downlights (all of the downlights have one)

Cable for Back Floodlight & Utility Room light

Cables for Utility Room Ring & Smoke alarm

Cables to the Fridge socket

Fridge double socket

Cooker hood cables

Cooker Hood socket

Cooker cables

Cooker Cables

the 1st under cupboard lights socket

Holes for DSO, 2 FCUs & a 15A Round pin socket (below worktop, fed from 1 of the FCUs)

TV & under cupboard lights cables

The 2nd, 3rd & 4th Under cupboard lights sockets

Hole in floor on sink side, filled, & new earth cable (It is the one coming out of the piece of conduit, by the back door. The other earth cable is the old one)

Here are some pictures of the temp. courtyard (Utility Room) light

The light

The switch

The supply cable

The light just plugs into a socket in the dining room

 

[aptsys]

What are you using to chase the walls?

 

[mdbalson]

What are you using to chase the walls?

MY 110V SDS Dill with a chasing bit in

 

[mdbalson]

Some of the Rubbish from the Old Kitchen

New earth bonding cable for kitchen/bathroom pipes

Cables for 3 Gang Light Switch by the back door

Bathroom Light Switch

TV cables & 2nd & 3rd Under cupboard lights cables

Cooker Cables

Cable for 1st Under Cupboard light

Conduits Feeding the outside JBs (Shed, Shed Freezer,Front outside socket, Loft Sockets & Immersion Heater/CH power)

The Electric Supply

Temp. Lighting JB (Upstairs & Downstairs Lights, fed by 1mm flex with a plug on the end)

Hob & Shed power temp. JB

 

[Steve]

And WHY OH WHY are you STILL carrying on this topic in TWO THREADS?

 

[bernardgreen]

And WHY OH WHY are you STILL carrying on this topic in TWO THREADS?

Good question.

This picture highlights a problem to come.

The incomer is now obstructed by cables so there is going to be extra complication when the DNO try to move the cutout onto a new board.

I repeat DO NOT attempt to move the cut out. IF you REALLY must DIY the new board make it an upside down U and fit it around the cutout without disturbing the cut out or the incomer. A short circuit in your wiring will trip the MCD and / or MCB and remove the power within seconds ( assuming you have wired correctly ) but a short circuited incomer or damaged cut out is a very different matter. There is no protection other than a very large and very slow to blow and may be auto re-connect breaker at the sub station.

and one more point you may have overlooked.

The problem with posting photos is that the short cuts and corner cuttings that would never pass inspection if they were seen have been seen and can be seen as often as is necessary.

Sorry to be hard on you, you obviously are dedicated to the project and have put a lot of work into it but there are some things that are boderline on quality.

 

[mdbalson]

And WHY OH WHY are you STILL carrying on this topic in TWO THREADS?

Good question.

As this thread is just about the kitchen electrics, & the other thread is about replacing the kitchen as a whole.

The incomer is now obstructed by cables so there is going to be extra complication when the DNO try to move the cutout onto a new board.

The Lighting JB can just be moved out of the way, the other cables will lay on the floor if I unhook the hob cable off of the cable clip, & the other cables are the main/bonding earth cables & the tails to the CCU

and one more point you may have overlooked.

The problem with posting photos is that the short cuts and corner cuttings that would never pass inspection if they were seen have been seen and can be seen as often as is necessary.

What short cuts & corner cuttings

Sorry to be hard on you, you obviously are dedicated to the project and have put a lot of work into it but there are some things that are boderline on quality.

What things are boderline on quality

 

[aptsys]

What short cuts & corner cuttings

What things are boderline on quality

 

[mdbalson]

Why

 

[equitum]

More pictures of rubish please, perhaps a couple of bags of 2nd fix offcuts sweepings would be nice. Oh, and maybe a few shots of the empty cardboard boxes from the accessories, preferably broken flat.

 

[streetlighter]

Well some of the cable runs could be a little neater especially in the celiling void. But i remember some of the first jobs i did where not very tidy i was always told it will come with time.

 

[mdbalson]

Here are some more pictures

15A Round Pin FCU wiring

Under cabinet socket FCU wires

Under cabinet socket FCU wiring

DSO & 2 FCUs

15A Round Pin Socket wiring

The Finished 15A Round Pin Socket

cables

3 undercupboard lights 5A Round Pin Sockets wiring

5A Round Pin Socket wiring

the 3 finshed 5A Round Pin Sockets

The wiring in one of the 5A Round Pin Plugs

3 Undercupboard lights sockets

Cooker Hood FCU & Cooker Isolator wires

Cooker Outlet Plate wires

The Cooker Cable is 10mm T+E & the Cooker will be on a 45Amp Type B MCB

Cooker Hood FCU wiring

Cooker Isolator wiring

The finished Cooker Hood FCU & Cooker Isolator

Cooker Outlet Plate wiring

Cooker Outlet Plate

The Temp. electrics

Temp. Electric supply

(the piece of wood under the CCU, is all that is holding it up as the render on the wall behied it came off)

Temp. Cooker JB

Temp. Shed JB

Temp. Shed power & Shed freezer JB

Temp. Kitchen Power

Temp. Kitchen Power, Extension Leads

Temp. Kitchen Power, Extension Lead 1, & Temp. Double Socket Outlet

From left socket, of extension lead 1: 1st plug is Tumble Dryer & Wine Cooler, 2nd Plug is Washing Machine & Kettle, 3rd Plug is a Radio & White Spotlight, & 4th Plug is the power to the Temp. Double Socket Outlet.

In the Temp. DSO is: 1st Plug is the 2 temp. Kitchen Lights, & the 2nd Plug is the Back Garden Floodlight.

Temp. Kitchen Power, Extension Lead 2

From left socket, of extension lead 2: 1st plug is the air fresher, 2nd plug is the Black spotlight, 3rd plug is the door bell, & the 4th plug is the power to the temp. upstairs & downstairs lights JB.

The black extension lead, which comes from the dinning room is the power to the fridge.

The temp. cooker

Fridge & toster supply

Temp. kitchen supply & microwave power

(it is the 2nd plug in the socket)

Temp. power cables into the kitchen

Temp. fridge supply

Temp. power cables

Kettle & Washing Machine supply

Bathroom Light, Tumble dryer & Wine cooler supply

Temp. bathroom light supply

Temp. outside socket for Tumble dryer & Wine cooler

Tumble dryer & Wine Cooler

 

[mdbalson]

Some more pics

Cables to outside jbs

Cables for 2 new ring circuits

1st kitchen light switch cables

The cables cemented over

The piece of wood fixed above the meter, will used to fix the new electric cupboard, back board to.


Cooker hood socket wiring

Cooker hood socket

1st undercupboard lights socket

Cooker circuit supply cable

Cooker outlet plate wiring

Cooker connection box terminals

The cable feeding the range

The New Electric Range cooker

The Range is supplied by 10mm T+E on a 45Amp MCB.
The Range has 6 hobs, 1 grill, 1 fan oven, 1 convection oven, & 1 storage compartment.

 

[dannyboi2003]

Carlsberg don't do electrical lash-ups, but if they did they would probably be the best electrical lash-ups in the world!