ring main in concrete or wall?
- Thread starter mikeh2000
- Start date
Sponsored Links
you would only be installing 1 32A radial to match the capacoty of a ring
and yes it may use more copper to put in a 32A 4mm radial than a 32A 2.5mm ring depending on how far you are from the CU
but i really can't see the problem with using 20A radials for sockets and doubling the number over 32A rings
you save on the cable and get better segragation and avoid the spurring rules for rings
and yes it may use more copper to put in a 32A 4mm radial than a 32A 2.5mm ring depending on how far you are from the CU
but i really can't see the problem with using 20A radials for sockets and doubling the number over 32A rings
you save on the cable and get better segragation and avoid the spurring rules for rings
Sponsored Links
I'm a newbie to this forum and have been browsing so I may be responding to stuff you regulars have left way, way behind. If so, please forgive me.
If I understand it correctly, the original poster clarified that he was only planning to use conduit for drops, not buried in the concrete o the ground floor. That was a relief.
I've recently done a kitchen re-fit in my house, also a concrete/bitumen ground floor. The original electrical installation had been upgraded (or should I say 'upgraded'?) some years before I bought the house. To feed power to new ground floor sockets, a 3/4" conduit had been buried in the kitchen floor and 7/029 T&E cable run through it. I wanted to add some new feeds along the same route and initially planned to remove that conduit and replace it with a 25 mm one (for reasons I won't go into here, it wasn't feasible to go 'up & over').
Checking the regulations and guidance manuals, however, I was reminded that such a buried conduit (with both ends effectively pointing upwards) is a condensation trap. So I changed my plans and went for MICC (aka 'Pyro'), including the original circuit. Sure enough, when I removed the original conduit and cable, staining on the cable sheath and corrosion on the conduit interior confirmed that the conduit had spent much of its life at least half full of water!
As far as the original poster's conduit drops are concerned, nobody mentioned that they should be bonded. I agree that they should be bushed into metal boxes at the bottom (i.e. socket or switch) ends. Just for completeness, how would folks finish them at the top ends, up there in the floor/ceiling void?
If I understand it correctly, the original poster clarified that he was only planning to use conduit for drops, not buried in the concrete o the ground floor. That was a relief.
I've recently done a kitchen re-fit in my house, also a concrete/bitumen ground floor. The original electrical installation had been upgraded (or should I say 'upgraded'?) some years before I bought the house. To feed power to new ground floor sockets, a 3/4" conduit had been buried in the kitchen floor and 7/029 T&E cable run through it. I wanted to add some new feeds along the same route and initially planned to remove that conduit and replace it with a 25 mm one (for reasons I won't go into here, it wasn't feasible to go 'up & over').
Checking the regulations and guidance manuals, however, I was reminded that such a buried conduit (with both ends effectively pointing upwards) is a condensation trap. So I changed my plans and went for MICC (aka 'Pyro'), including the original circuit. Sure enough, when I removed the original conduit and cable, staining on the cable sheath and corrosion on the conduit interior confirmed that the conduit had spent much of its life at least half full of water!
As far as the original poster's conduit drops are concerned, nobody mentioned that they should be bonded. I agree that they should be bushed into metal boxes at the bottom (i.e. socket or switch) ends. Just for completeness, how would folks finish them at the top ends, up there in the floor/ceiling void?
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
