Roof ventilation

Do the work, do it right and thats all you need to do. Don't worry about it

Cheers woody, that's what I'll do & I have no intention of cutting corners or doing a bodge job.
My trade is I'm a sheet metal worker so I'm used to working with my hands & I'm more then cabable of doing this type of work.
My problem (like a lot of people on this forum) is knowing the correct way of doing it.
A year ago I plasterboarded my single skinned front porch (which was bare brick inside) using dot & dab.
It looked great back then, but now there is mould appearing on the PB.
I should have insulated the walls & fitted a vapour barrier but I didn't know that when I did the job.
I'll now have to rip it all out & start again, which isn't too big or expensive a job, but it would be in my utility room, so no mistakes this time.

Btw, how do you know all this stuff?
I've been reading through some of the threads & in one you noticed somebody was specifying a lintel much bigger then they needed to. I don't think many people would have spotted that detail.
 
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Woody is right, you dont need to involve building control, you are improving an existing structure, we do these all the time and building control dont want any involvement unless you particularly want them to, ie; you know nothing of buildng and construction and want them to check work carried out, but it aint free
 
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I back Woody on that .... it's a heap of fuss with BRegs and you'll do it right, i'm sure.

My long essay was just for info, if and only if, you feel you want the paperwork to look good when shown to a buyer's Surveyor. In other wods - you're selling on the strength of an approved ,change of use, space.

looking at you plan - it suggests it's just a small annex anyway ...and only worth small utiliy room status in any event.

All my guff would apply , if you were going to go for the whole garage space --- which would makea "sale"
 
It was good info Frank&earle, I knew some of it but some I didn't
I'm not overly bothered about "when it comes to selling the house" because I have no plans to move.
A lad I work with moved house last week & he was asked if he had done any electrical work, or structrual work in the house in the last 5 years.
He just said no & nothing else was said.

One other thing, Is kingspan/cellotex strong enough to take a floating floor by itself or are you supposed to put battens around the edge of the room & under heavy weight items like washing machines?
 
Hi,
The majority of roof leaks occur where the plane of the roof is interrupted by a ridge, a wall or penetration such as a vent or skylight etc, or another roof intersecting at an angle. For most garage buildings and storage sheds a simple gable or shed style roof is used, so flashing is only used if you want to install a skylight or roof vent. The shape of vent flashing is round with a wide flange at the base, that is lapped into the shingles as the roofing is installed. Always remember to install flashing under shingles on the up slope of a flange and over top of the shingle on the down slope. Use roofing cement to caulk all flashing seams.
 

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