Rounded Wheel Nut

[Munroast]

Unless you have a flat tyre, whiz it round to your nearest tyre shop and they’ll get it off for you.

that is probably the easiest solution so far - especially as I half know a few of them.

Anyway, got the extraction socket thing off my mate last night, so giving that a go is my first job the day.

 

[Munroast]

It's off, right tools for the job and it only took 5 minutes - it was fair stuck, had a four foot bar on the socket before she turned.

 

[JohnD]

that looks very corroded. are you in an area with lots of road salt? Looks like it seized onto the bevel on the wheel

I was once embarrassed that I had to call out the AA to change a wheel, I simply couldn't undo it with the factory-supplied brace, and I am pretty handy. Now keep an extending telescopic brace in the boot.

We're not supposed to put lube or anti-seize on wheel nuts because it changes the torque required. But surely there must be something that can be done?

 

[Munroast]

digital image makes them look a bit worse than they are
17mm bolts is far too small for a wheel nut requiring 80lb foot
don't use 12 point sockets to undo them (like I do)
I use a bit of copper slip or red rubber, red rubber is good at stopping things seizing, and I doubt it acts as much of a lube to stop over torquing ?

this wheel was fitted at tyre fitters last November when new tyres were fitted - they have a habit of putting them on too tight - seen them put them on with the air hammer then check they are tight enough with torque wrench, could be 100lb foot but as long as it clicks the torque at 80 they think they have done a good job.

 

[Burnerman]

Job done! Pleased you got it sorted.
I apply ceramic grease to the threads on mine and I confess to never using a torque wrench either.
I've never had a nut come slack or not being able to release one, but a full hexagon socket is essential.
John

 

[johnny2007]

So did you use hammer and chisel?
Did you score the bolt with a dremel first?

 

[Munroast]

no it was special socket with a reverse cutting edge inside that grips and bites into the nut, hammer it on first then then the more you turn anticlockwise the more it bites into and grips the nut.
something like
https://www.google.com/search?q=soc...ECAwQBA&biw=1234&bih=651#imgrc=HuHR6R21A5_QIM

 

[Keithmac]

I coppa-slip the wheel studs and never had a problem tightening them up (or comming loose!).

What happens is the corrosion increases the pressure on the head of the bolt requiring more torque to remove it.

As said above a decent single hex socket is a must.

 

[Mottie]

Christ! That bolt looks like it’s spent it’s life under water. I rarely use a torque wrench for wheel bolts but when training the students, they always have to use one. I tell them to make sure the impact wrench is at minimum power when doing the initial tightening so that they can tighten up to the required torque as those impact wrenches can go well over 200ft/lb.

 

[Burnerman]

What do you reckon....PSA or VW?
John

 

[Mottie]

Berlingo.

 

[Burnerman]

+1
J

 

[Munroast]

Berlingo.

is that a wild guess at what vehicle the stud is from?
Sorry mate you nearly hit the corner flag with that one - it was a Partner...

 

[Gasguru]

If the studs anything to go by surely the rest of the underneath must be rotten