S Plan Help

Just checked volts across the brown and blue again now showing 170
 
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This driving me round the bend! At risk of being shot down in flames by those of you with FAR SUPIRIOR knowledge……here goes……there can be little wrong with my system given that Zone 1 will give heat if the 2 port is operated manually, Zone 2 functions as designed direct from its programmer and the hot water system works from its programmer. There just appears to be a wiring-based issue. 240 volts on brown, grey and orange with the heating on, it appears to me that the brown is not switching off/over to the orange when heat is called for. Please tell me I’m stupid; I’ve got it wrong…..whatever LOL
 
Brown and blue energise the motor.
Grey and orange are connected to a switch which closes when the valve opens and energises the pump and boiler.
 
Remove the actuator from valve and apply 240v across BR &* Blue and see if valve opens ie . Actuator moves to open.
 
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it appears to me that the brown is not switching off/over to the orange when heat is called for. Please tell me I’m stupid; I’ve got it wrong…..whatever LOL
The Brown and orange are not connected in any way, they never meet at any point to switch anything over
 
you have another danfoss that is working on the HW circuit, remove that and put it on your heating circuit and see if it still works on there
 
If I were a C/H engineer I to would have it sorted. I'm an automotive engineer which is why I'm ' having a go' ..... just driven by the need to know what has failed and why rather than pick up the phone and have someone fit a new part. Starting from 0 knowledge I have learned a lot in just a few days, thanks in part to everyone who has chipped in on here. Every day really is a school day
 
If I were a C/H engineer I to would have it sorted. I'm an automotive engineer which is why I'm ' having a go' ..... just driven by the need to know what has failed and why rather than pick up the phone and have someone fit a new part. Starting from 0 knowledge I have learned a lot in just a few days, thanks in part to everyone who has chipped in on here. Every day really is a school day


You need to understand opening the valve manually proves nothing.
Also you NEED to understand what is what in that valve
IT IS BROWN AND BLUE THAT MUST HAVE 240 VOLTS ON BROWN AND BLUE to open the valve. FORGET about the grey and orange wires for the time being
FOCUS on brown and blue
Capital to stress and double stress that you keep your eyes on the ball and stay focused
Once more, forget about grey and orange wires, forget operating the motorised valve manually.

*****Identify which programmer operates the valve that works. Switch that off and forget that as well until you have identified the issue.

If you do what you are being asked to do, fault will be found else you will be on your own

Now switch the programmer on that is SUPPOSED to operate the valve in question. IT WILL NOT a be the valve that is mentioned here *****

Now check and see if you have 240 volts across the brown and blue wires.
Report back what you find.
I will respond only if you follow the instruction that are listed above.
 
Having found time to look a little further, as ianmcd suggested, I move my H/W motor (known to be working) to the C/H, guess what the C/H works as designed. The motor then fitted to the H/W loop, H/W not working. In short a defective motor, the second one in three weeks!!!! A replacement ordered from a different supplier, hopefully third time lucky! Thank you everyone who chipped in with help on this, it is much appreciated.
 
No not hard, just hadn't expected two dead motors in a row, trying fit this in with mending broken cars to earn a living and getting my head around how a heating system functions. As I have said, thanks to all who offered advice, it is all appreciated and I have learned a lot :)
 

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