Scudo (Expert/Dispatch) Rear Shoe Auto Adjuster Questions?

[ReganAndCarter]

Set the auto adjusters by using the footbrake - not too heavily in case there is a pressure compensator that cuts in. The adjusters are near to the slave cylinder, after all.
Then, apply the handbrake but don't lock it - and press the foot brake again a few times.
Clout the drum with a heavy hammer, just to help centralising the shoes, and see the drum rotates freely;
Off with the drum again, and manually turn the adjuster two or three clicks, drum back on, check for rotating freely.
Both wheels in the air, handbrake on a couple of clicks to check that the brakes work the same on both sides - as far as possible.

Thanks for the above info. Though I'm just wondering why all the steps are necessary and what is their purpose? What does "set the auto adjusters" mean - set them in the correct position, or set them to the correct adjustment?

If the above steps are about getting the brake components bedded into the right positions after assembly, could the same be achieved by driving the vehicle and doing the adjustment after say 50 miles? By which time everything should be in the position it wants to be, presumably.

Apologies for the basic questions, just trying to understand things as an amateur.

 

[ReganAndCarter]

Almost wish I'd left the operation of the adjuster as a mystery - last thing I wanted was to cause problems for forum members whose advice and help I really appreciate.

Anyway, after reading the experts' advice on this thread, it looks like there more to setting and adjusting the brake components after rebuild than I thought.

I imagined that as auto adjusters are fitted, I could reassemble everything, get the shoes adjusted so they are reasonably close to the drum, but not touching and leave it like that. After driving the vehicle carefully for a while, the adjusters should automatically get the shoes to the correct adjustment.

However, it seems this isn't the case. So if brakes with auto adjusters need careful adjustment - does it mean that adjusters don't work? Or maybe don't work very well?

 

[Burnerman]

I’d say when the braking system is new, and everything is sliding nicely and the brake drums have no ovality then everything works well enough adjuster wise.
It doesn’t take much dust and grot to make the ratcheting wheel that little more awkward to turn, which is why I like to help it along a bit by turning the thing manually.
I do however check that the pull on each wheel is the same after this.....two or three clicks on the handbrake lever is usually fine.
You can often get a feeling for the cable state at the same time.....Toyota 4x4 truck owners take heed and others where there is a mechanical compensator.
We have to appreciate of course the tiny bit of wear that takes place in a rear drum system which can go for many thousands of miles without actually being opened up, which is pretty remarkable in itself.
I lube absolutely every moving bit, and that includes the backplate where the shoes slide, and even the ends of the shoes where they engage in the wheel cylinder and the locator on the bottom of the backplate.
Regards
John

 

[Mottie]

I normally adjust them up manually, trying the drum on occasionally and when it just goes on, I give it a little bit more to account for the lip on the drum and bang it on. Usually it will be tight all the way until it’s fully on and then the drum will turn. Experience has taught me how much 'extra' to wind up the adjusters. Don’t think I’ve ever ground a lip off of a drum.

 

[Burnerman]

On some of the wrecks that have come my way, it has been impossible to shift the drum due to the wear lip so I've had to use my slide hammer just to shift it.
Granted, this may knack whatever's in there but it has been the only way. Usually the slave cylinder survives, but maybe the rubbers split.
Grinding the wear lip away makes for simple assembly!
When I say wrecks, I mean wrecks!
John

 

[ReganAndCarter]

Thanks again for your replies. I'm beginning to see there could be two different situations here. Some where the original, worn components that may not be in the best working order - or in my situation where everything was replaced except the drums. The drums had virtually zero lip on them which I thought was remarkable compared to some of the high mileage drums I've seen with lips on my other cars (these drums have poss done up to 110,000 miles, I've never changed them in 17.5 years).

OK, my last questions - even though I have all new components, inc. the adjusters - I shouldn't rely on them to do the final adjustment after reassembly of everything? Do you not have faith in auto adjusters being able to adjust the shoes to the gaps from drums they should be? Do you just not fully trust the adjusters?

 

[Mottie]

Do you not have faith in auto adjusters being able to adjust the shoes to the gaps from drums they should be? Do you just not fully trust the adjusters?

No and no!

 

[carmanmemoranda]

On some of the wrecks that have come my way, it has been impossible to shift the drum due to the wear lip so I've had to use my slide hammer just to shift it.
Granted, this may knack whatever's in there but it has been the only way. Usually the slave cylinder survives, but maybe the rubbers split.
Grinding the wear lip away makes for simple assembly!
When I say wrecks, I mean wrecks!
John

Sensible to remove the lip off the drum when it's off so it will come off easy then next time.

Also better for the adjusters as they don't have to take up the excess that the lip obviously leaves

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Thanks again for your replies. I'm beginning to see there could be two different situations here. Some where the original, worn components that may not be in the best working order - or in my situation where everything was replaced except the drums. The drums had virtually zero lip on them which I thought was remarkable compared to some of the high mileage drums I've seen with lips on my other cars (these drums have poss done up to 110,000 miles, I've never changed them in 17.5 years).

OK, my last questions - even though I have all new components, inc. the adjusters - I shouldn't rely on them to do the final adjustment after reassembly of everything? Do you not have faith in auto adjusters being able to adjust the shoes to the gaps from drums they should be? Do you just not fully trust the adjusters?

If everything is new and working well the adjusters will work.

When you press the footbrake repeatedly after assembly you will hear the ratchet clicking, and thus setting it correctly.

Old, worn gunged up adjusters, no way