Scudo (Expert/Dispatch) Rear Shoe Auto Adjuster Questions?

[carmanmemoranda]

Thanks again John. Will get under there with some open ended spanners to gauge the size of the flare nut wrench needed. I only have one F N wrench which might be imperial. Halfords do some nice long flare nut wrenches in their professional range. Not too worried about the bleed nipple, as cylinder will be binned. Will make sure I crack off the new ones before fitting.

Same with the cyl seals - not too worried about overheating them as will be binned. I realise the good sense you're saying in just doing the seals. Not sure where I would source the correct seals. Could poss rob them out of the new Ferodo cyls I have coming - if the seals are the same. But knowing my track record with rubber things, cv boots, etc - I would end up getting it wrong with fluid leaking all over my nice new shoes.

I'm sure it will go ok.

Just a comment about that.

Sort out the cylinders and any new brake pipes needed before you put the new shoes on

 

[ReganAndCarter]

Just a comment about that.

Sort out the cylinders and any new brake pipes needed before you put the new shoes on

Yes, thanks. New shoes won't be going anywhere near until I have non leaking cylinders installed. I've got a pre-assembled kit coming which includes adjusters, shoes, springs, cylinders. Saved messing around ordering things seperately. Cost £100 and went for Ferodo as some other brands were quite a lot more. Expect to double the van's value.

Will be back wanting details about how to replace the brake lines.

 

[ReganAndCarter]

Or 6. Just scrap the thing

Plan B.

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Yes, thanks. New shoes won't be going anywhere near until I have non leaking cylinders installed. I've got a pre-assembled kit coming which includes adjuster, shoes, spring, cylinders. Saved messing around ordering things seperately. Cost £100 and went for Ferodo as some other brands were quite a lot more.

Good move.

Will save a lot of aggro

 

[ReganAndCarter]

Very best of luck shifting the brake pipe connection mate........bloody tight they are as a rule.
John

Looks like my flare spanner does have the correct 11mm end. But it's quite short so tapping it with a hammer carefully so as not to twist the pipe would be the only option with that tool. I did tug it slightly, but it's on pretty well.

However, Laser do flare spanners that pivot. More importantly, they're 13" long, poss about double the length of the one I have. Maybe time to add yet another tool to the collection of tools that will only be used once (this is just like plumbing ). I think I may actually be able to get enough leverage on this one to turn the flare nut. Unfortunately no space to swing the breaker in the arch.

Still waiting for parts and the cylinder is now leaking like the Exxon Valdez just because I touched the outer cover. I was very gentle and it didn't appear to be leaking until I probed the cover - there was quite a bit under cover. The pipes are in perfect condition, no rust at all so I must believe that Fiat had no hand in their manufacture. Still awaiting parts. Flare nuts marinating in generous serving of Plus Gas.

Laser Tools 6753 Extra Long Flare Nut Wrench 11 x 13mm

Laser Tools 6753 Extra long, double ended flexible flare nut wrench provides greater access to hard to reach areas.

www.lasertools.co.uk

 

[Stivino]

the cylinder is now leaking like the Exxon Valdez

Clamp it off at the flexi hose.

 

[Old Salt]

I think I may actually be able to get enough leverage on this one to turn the flare nut. Unfortunately no space to swing the breaker in the arch.

Put a ring spanner over the jaw of your flare spanner to add leverage

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Don't force the pipe nut.

The last thing you want is the nut to turn but the pipe inside it being siezed just twists and therefore breaks. At garage level it's probably easier to just do that and make a new pipe, but I doubt you have a pipe flaring tool so will need to take the old 1, or details of it, to get 1 made.

Work the nut gently, back and forth, in small stages, plenty of penetrating oil between the pipe and the nut (not easy) and hopefully it will come undone. Worth taking extra time and care to do this if you want to avoid the problem of getting a new pipe made.

If a new pipe is needed, get 1 properly made, flared (check against the old flares, male or female, but likely male ) with new nuts. Do not use the compression fittings that some places now try and sell, they are not correct and WILL FAIL mot test

 

[ReganAndCarter]

Finally got the job done without any hitches - for once. I made the mistake of sourcing the kit from an online company that turned out to be another arm of Autodoc. I'm guessing they employ sloths at their warehouse and then use the snails at Evri/My Hermes to deliver them. These two companies together are the worst combination - took about 8 or 9 days to arrive. I believe the parts do come from Germany. Live and learn. Then as soon as the parts arrived I went away for 8 nights. Then there's the weather..............................

Drums came off very easily, the pipe union nut to cylinder was tight, but not ridiculously tight. Took extra care undoing - extra long pivoting Laser flare nut open ring spanner got them undone without any damage. Had soaked the union nuts in penetrant for several days, plus the brake pipes are in as new condition - they must put some very good coating on them these days to survive 20 years without corrosion. Made sure the brake pipes didn't turn as undoing the cyl union nut.

Both cylinders were leaking quite badly on both pistons (fair bit of fluid under the rubber dust covers) - the nearside was worst with more staining and contamination on the inside of backplates and the shoes. Shoes actually had fair bit of meat left on the and could have gone again if not for the fluid contamination. Surprising because I've never changed them in over 17 years of ownership. Drums were fine - no lip at all which made removal very easy. Inside of backplates cleaned up really well - minimal corrosion in one or two places, but must have good anti rust like the brake lines.

Having bought a kit with everything (shoes, springs, adjusters, etc) all ready assembled sped things up a bit. Could have done with a different spanner for the bleeding as the nipples are quite deeply recessed into backplate. Bleeding was the fiddliest bit - and I'm not sure the Vizibleed I bought from Halfords was the best thing for bleeding. Might re-check the bleeding again with ye olde length of pvc tube and some fluid in a jam jar. Never fails. Though I did like the look of the Laser bleed tank with the handle on top to pump up pressure. But baulked at 45 quid for a job I rarely do.

Thanks to all who gave the benefit of their experience. Helped it go smoothly and everything on the rear brakes is completely rebuilt now - ready for another 20 years!

P.S. Has anyone ever used a Laser brake bleeding spanner with built in bleed nipple? Wondered if they are any good and what the benefits are. How well they seal - because using one means an extra seal over other methods and another poss way in for air.

Laser Tools 6498 Brake Bleeder Wrench 8mm

Laser Tools 6498 Replacement 8mm wrench for 6783.

www.lasertools.co.uk

 

[Stivino]

some fluid in a jam jar

I use an old salad cream or sauce bottle. The hole in the top is the perfect size for a length of washer pipe to pass through.

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Good news you got it done ok.

Never used (or tried) those laser spanners. If with a compressor i always use a suction kit. If that fails, or not near a compressor then the old fashioned washer pipe into a jar always works. But I do like the idea of Stivino

 

[Burnerman]

Very well done, that would have given you a buzz!
Bleeding wise, it’s Gunsons Eezibleed for me, but often I use my oil suction vessel connected to the compressor.
On occasion I’ve used both with problematic ABS pumps.
Regards
John