Sockets in Kitchen moved after installed too low

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Hi, we have had electrics installed into a new extension by a qualified electrician put on site by the builder and unfortunately the sockets round the kitchen worktop where installed too low at 970mm and needed to be moved up to 1150mm, could someone reassure me that the work carried out is compliant with Part-P, as in the way the cable has been extended, also if the "exposed" cables are completely covered (plastered over) will this make any difference, or should I insist that the entire cabling is re-run ?

Thanks in advance.
Pictures of Sockets
View media item 88425 View media item 88426 View media item 88427 View media item 88428
 
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Not good news I'm afraid.

1. the wiring will not be in the permitted zones, as when plastered over, the sockets will not be in line with the cable run*.
See //www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:walls

2. Need to see how the joint under the brown tape has been done. It must be a proper permananent connection, and not a screwed connection. (i.e. NOT a bit of "choc" terminal block.

* Wiring done like this has killed people. For eample http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/ukn...r-electrocuted-in-botched-fitted-kitchen.html
 
You can see why kitchens were part of the original Part P requirement, as regards needing notification.

Apart from the water aspect, they're no more dangerous than other rooms, but so much more likely to be fudged.
 
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Hi, we have had electrics installed into a new extension by a qualified electrician
The word you really need is "competent". Although by your tone is it the electrician who did the extensions, or the builder?

Furthermore the electrician has left you with live single insulated cores which should have been easily and cheaply covered with blanking plates.
 
It doesn't comply unless you have blank plates over the old sockets. As soon as you remove those and plaster in the joints, your installation will not comply as the concealed wiring is not in a permitable zone.

Didn't look a bad job until the moves.

Who's fault was it they were too low?
 
Neat job, but sadly non-compliant AFAICT.

Are base cupboards fitted yet?

If not, it should be relatively easy to virtually rewire the kitchen, by running cables clipped to the lower part of the wall.

This would also eliminate those joints.

I imagine you are having upstands stuck to the wall?
 
If there is a granite upstand, could the rules be bent enough to pretend it's a boxing or trunking, and that no one is going to be drilling there? :idea:
 
It doesn't comply unless you have blank plates over the old sockets. As soon as you remove those and plaster in the joints, your installation will not comply as the concealed wiring is not in a permitable zone.

Didn't look a bad job until the moves.

Who's fault was it they were too low?

I would agree, i have seen similar mistake made and a blank plate made from galv trunking lid used to provide a flush surface for the plasterer. You could use a 'flat plate' metal blank plate which is readily available.

Not all doom !


Regards,

DS
 
It doesn't comply unless you have blank plates over the old sockets. As soon as you remove those and plaster in the joints, your installation will not comply as the concealed wiring is not in a permitable zone.

Didn't look a bad job until the moves.

Who's fault was it they were too low?

I would agree, i have seen similar mistake made and a blank plate made from galv trunking lid used to provide a flush surface for the plasterer. You could use a 'flat plate' metal blank plate which is readily available.

Not all doom !


Regards,

DS

Not the answer though, as there are horizontal cables buried.
 
Just cut to the chase, bite the bullet and do the job properly by chasing out a new cable run between the sockets.

If the mistake in height was yours you pay for the work. If the builder got it wrong he pays and if the kitchen designer got it wrong she (or he) pays for it and gives a bigger discount as compensation for the trouble caused.
 
should I insist that the entire cabling is re-run
You don't have to insist.

You can't even insist that it not be re-done, there is no choice - it has to be re-done, because leaving it would be illegal, and cannot be signed off by an electrician and will stop you getting a completion certificate from Building Control.
 
I would agree, i have seen similar mistake made and a blank plate made from galv trunking lid used to provide a flush surface for the plasterer. You could use a 'flat plate' metal blank plate which is readily available.
No good.

The Wiring Regulations require that there not be any way known to man to drive a nail or screw or the like through the protection into the cable, no matter what materials, force or technology are used.

Galvanised trunking is way too flimsy to do that.
 
If it was my house i would install flush blanking plates, plaster and move on with my life….. if you are concerned that someone may decide to hang a picture under the socket

ask the elelectrican to cap the cables between the boxes.
If you are tiling the wall why worry ?

Easy to say,' tell them to re-do the job', not easy to live with the atmosphere after-words ! :(


Regards, DS
 
As already said if blanking plates are fitted then not really a problem. I do question why tape if blanking plate is to be fitted?

I have seen where mistakes have been made due to floor hight changing it's all very well saying 1150 mm above finished floor level but you have to know what the finished floor level will be.

The question is who is issuing what? If the LABC is issuing a completion certificate then ask them. If the electrician is issuing a compliance certificate then it's more of a problem.

As to zones a socket can have the cable enter the box anywhere along the length of the box it does not have to be centre so although I don't like it can't really say it does not comply.
b66e76b43318302be55eab5dbeb45ff3
you will note the safe zone takes the whole width of socket.

See Here

It's not the way I would want it or how I would do it but can't really find any reason why it should not be done.
 

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