solar shed project !! wiring diagram

[ban-all-sheds]

all items bought on ebay

If any came from China be afraid.

 

[endecotp]

Have you considered using 12V LED lights?

 

[ericmark]

thanks everybody for your replys

the power inverter is a 1500w with a peak of 3000w sorry forgot to update drawing oops ( it has a 40 amp fuse on the back of it )

That seems odd for the output 13A is about max and for input looking at excess of 250A look again you have something wrong. the one I used OK twice the size for input had an array of fuses one for each FET about 30 of them.

as for the low voltage concerns is this not all 240v ? ( apart from the battery ) as there is no load on the charge controller everything is run off the power inverter is this ok ?

Not a clue what you are trying to say. Low Voltage = 230 vac and Extra Low Voltage = 12 vdc so what are you talking about. Yes noted your not using the auto switch on the charge controller for lights. The power inverter is far too big for the battery. I found that correct size cable was too stiff to route so used two 25mm² in parallel to take load for yours would look at two 16mm² cables in parallel if a short run. i.e. 4 in all two positive and 2 negative.

typical fridge or freezer is about 700w isn't it ? and actually work for about 3 / 4 hours out of a day ?

No new fridge must be A+ rated and it will run about 1/3 of the time while running it will use less then 100W or it would not get a A+ rating. At start up it may draw 10 times that figure but only for a few seconds. There is one exception and that is the fridges designed for caravans and boats these are very inefficient but standard domestic under counter size around the 50W mark.

the charge controller is only controling the state of the battery ,ie keeps it topped up from the solar panel (acts as a trickle charger i think )

do i need a main switch/rcd before the fuse panel and after the inverter ?

thanks again for your comments

The charge controller will stop the battery for becoming over charged when used when no current is being drawn. If used at same time as using current the using of the current can upset the charge controller.

However for what you are talking about you will need at least 300Ah of battery more like 600Ah of battery and at that size the charge controller is unlikely to be able to over charge batteries.

I would NOT use a 12 volt fridge they are very inefficient my 2 litre 12 volt fridge uses more power than my 400 litre fridge/freezer A++ rated.

 

[ericmark]

all items bought on ebay

If any came from China be afraid.

Mine said "Not made in China" but when it went wrong China was the return address. It cost about £160 new but to send for repair cost £110 at first £66 to return it and then another lump for china customs duty and then the new one also failed it was a very costly mistake. Buy the inverter from the UK.

 

[mprice109]

nothing from china all uk bought over a period of 10 months or so

as for 12v lights
i have thought about it did do a little research but the bulbs etc... are expensive compared to the ac route

already had some energy saving bulbs hanging around so making use of them , i know i woundn't have needed an inverter etc... but wanted some sockets for bits and pieces anyway so will go down the ac route me thinks

regards
mark

 

[mprice109]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1500W-Aut...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3a951f0000


this is very similar to the inverter i bought hope its ok for what i want to achieve ?

 

[JohnW2]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1500W-Auto-Car-Vehicle-Power-Inverter-DC-12V-To-AC-220V-Charger-Battery-USB-NEW-/251609939968?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3a951f0000
this is very similar to the inverter i bought hope its ok for what i want to achieve ?

It may be true that these items are 'located in Portsmouth', but, as far as the actual 'seller' is concerned ....

Based in Singapore, motoml10 has been an eBay member since 08 Jul, 2013

I wonder whether any of the 'all UK' things you've bought come into a similar category?

Kind Regards, John

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

Oh, come now folks, everything comes from China. Why are we pretending otherwise. Better would be to do something about the fact.

 

[Newboy]

http://www.klarheit-hid.com/en/index.asp



Established in 2004, Klarheit (Germany) Technology Co., Limited is located in one of the most dynamic economic centers and biggest production centers in China - Guangzhou.

 

[JohnW2]

Oh, come now folks, everything comes from China. Why are we pretending otherwise. Better would be to do something about the fact.

It's not really a question of 'where it comes from' (i.e. where it is manufactured) - as we know, the vast majority of electronic (and many other) products branded by the most reputable of 'Western companies' are manufactured in SE Asia. What is much more important is the nature (and, to some extent, location) of 'who is selling it'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[mprice109]

do i need a main switch/rcd before the fuse panel and after the inverter ?

Yes, I'd use an RCD - and you need to take a CPC (earth) from the 240V neutral of the inverter (i.e. BEFORE the RCD - some inverters connect their chassis and output socket earth pin to neutral anyway), to feed to all the 240V accessories and equipment.[/quote]


what size rcd would you suggest be suitable please ?

 

[davelx]

what size rcd would you suggest be suitable please ?

RCD's have two ratings - the tripping current (commonly 30mA - which is what you need) and the maximum switching current - which tends to start at 20A and go up. 63 and 80A are the most common. Your maximum load is much less than 20A, so any 30mA double pole RCD will be OK - though it must be be the same make and product range as the consumer unit and MCBs to ensure it all fits together correctly.

 

[ericmark]

Please note with simulated sin wave you will need a type A not a type AC RCD. These are designed to work with pulsating direct currents the type AC is not.

Also it is possible you will have problems running a fridge from simulated sin wave ask the manufactures first.

With a washing machine the only one we could use with a simulated sin wave was made by LG using an inverter control for the motor.

I note my freezer and fridge/freezer both made by Samsung have inverter controlled motors it is likely you will need one of these but ask the manufacturer first.

I found an old Woolworths mini fridge with both 12 VDC and 230 VAC options uses the peltier effect often called thermoelectric refrigeration technology, and thought it would be interesting to check what it used. These 4 litre units are still sold by Argos but the 230 volt adaptor is now sold separate it’s a “B” rated 230 volt ac fridge. It used as much power as our new full size A++ rated fridge/freezer. Look at a caravan 3 way gas, 12v or 230v fridge 60 litre, and manufacturers data says 110 watt and 1.9 kWh per day which relates to a massive 693 kWh/annum and 71% run time. Absorption cooling is clearly not very efficient. But a 35 litre peltier effect on manufactures data used 3285 kWh/annum.

However the peltier and absorption type will work directly off 12 vdc and with no motor the simulated sin wave will not matter. But you are short on power and 3285 kWh/annum for peltier compared with around 200 kWh/annum for motor driven type is rather a hard pill to swallow when power is limited.

Living in a caravan I used an old absorption type which needed 8A 24/7 to keep it cool at 12 volt so 96W all the time. On gas it needed the bottle changing around every two to three weeks.

I can see the idea of having a powered cool box for beer plugged in as you arrive and unplugged as you leave but to be powered all the time it really would not work.

The inverter will use power even with no output so the input will need switching off with a massive relay when lights are not used. It would be much simplifier to use 12 volt lights look at any caravan.

I used a welding bayonet lead connector to be able to connect and disconnect my inverter as needed 300A but at power your using one of these

will do the job. Durite 0-605-00 around the £10 mark. Honest when blue smoke starts to come out of the inverter finding a spanner quickly to remove battery terminals is no joke. Learn my my mistake do fit an isolator.

 

[ericmark]

what size rcd would you suggest be suitable please ?

RCD's have two ratings - the tripping current (commonly 30mA - which is what you need) and the maximum switching current - which tends to start at 20A and go up. 63 and 80A are the most common. Your maximum load is much less than 20A, so any 30mA double pole RCD will be OK - though it must be be the same make and product range as the consumer unit and MCBs to ensure it all fits together correctly.

NO IT WILL NOT had the inverter been a proper sin wave then I would say a plug in type was ample but it not it's a simulated sin wave so has to be A type.

 

[davelx]

what size rcd would you suggest be suitable please ?

RCD's have two ratings - the tripping current (commonly 30mA - which is what you need) and the maximum switching current - which tends to start at 20A and go up. 63 and 80A are the most common. Your maximum load is much less than 20A, so any 30mA double pole RCD will be OK - though it must be be the same make and product range as the consumer unit and MCBs to ensure it all fits together correctly.

NO IT WILL NOT had the inverter been a proper sin wave then I would say a plug in type was ample but it not it's a simulated sin wave so has to be A type.

Sorry, hadn't noticed it wasn't a pure sine wave inverter - I always use pure sine wave units, the modified (stepwise or castle waveform) types are horrible and some equipment (my Sony TV, for example) doesn't like them at all. I use these:

http://www.victronenergy.com/inverters/inverter-12v-24v-48v-800va-3kva/