Split load consumer unit wiring

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I have seen this done a few times over the years and not by DIY'ers, either. You take a 3 core to the hall switch. Then a 3 core up to the landing switch. Then a T&E to the landing light from the landing switch. Advantage is that the landing light is on the GF circuit, so if the FF lights go out, there is still light on that floor.
That's almost exactly what I would normally do, for the reason you indicate. I say 'almost exactly', since I don't see why you need a 3-core cable "to the hall switch" - just L & N are surely all that's required? What would you use the third core for?

Kind Regards, John
 
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The switchwire for the hall light?
Fair enough. I have to say, however, that I would usually suggest having the hall light wired ('separately') in the mirror image fashion of the landing one (i.e. fed from upstairs lighting circuit, and probably with hall/landing 2-way switching). In that way, you'd have at least some light downstairs if the downstairs circuit failed, as well as having at least some light upstairs if the upstairs circuit failed.

Kind Regards, John
 
In that way, you'd have at least some light downstairs if the downstairs circuit failed, as well as having at least some light upstairs if the upstairs circuit failed.
How would that work then? You'd need the hall/landing on a separate circuit.

Easiest way for me was to take neutral back down airing cupboard and through the floorboards to the CU in the garage. A lot less hassle than channeling in new cables.
 
In that way, you'd have at least some light downstairs if the downstairs circuit failed, as well as having at least some light upstairs if the upstairs circuit failed.
How would that work then? You'd need the hall/landing on a separate circuit.
That's what I said - the landing light would be on the downstairs wiring circuit and the hall light on the upstairs lighting circuit (in both cases with switched upstairs and downstairs, if that's what one wanted).
Easiest way for me was to take neutral back down airing cupboard and through the floorboards to the CU in the garage. A lot less hassle than channeling in new cables.
It obviously depends on what you were trying to achieve. Do I take it that you mean that the main house CU is in the garage? If not, then what you describe would obviously be a potential problem, RCD-wise. Do you mean just the neutral? If so, having a cable with an unbalanced current in it is not the cleverest of ideas, for reasons that have often been discussed (mainly induction of 50Hz 'hum' into audio equipment, telephones/comms equipment etc.)

Kind Regards, John
 
SB's not spoken to me since I suggested he pose hat-less.

I'm worried now that I've upset him...
 

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