Spur query
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Just wanted to ask something else.
My sparky friend had advised putting in a 13A switched fused socket (completed), whilst we were there the single socket above the work top that feeds the switched fused socket was changed to a double.
He's advised now that the single socket below the counter, fed by a single cable (the spur) can be changed to a double gang socket - the length of cable is probably 1.5 - 2' max (depending on the run of it, I've not chased the wall out to see where it runs)... and this will be fine to run the two appliances off it.
The amps are: washing m/c - 10A, dishwasher - 13A... he did say that the spur cable may need to be changed from 2.5 to 4mm if the calculation of resistance is greater than the cable can take, but said it's not likely...
Anyway. My query is, what advantage is this spur over just dropping another cable from that fused connection socket, changing the single socket below to a double - thus joining it to the ring?
Thanks
My sparky friend had advised putting in a 13A switched fused socket (completed), whilst we were there the single socket above the work top that feeds the switched fused socket was changed to a double.
He's advised now that the single socket below the counter, fed by a single cable (the spur) can be changed to a double gang socket - the length of cable is probably 1.5 - 2' max (depending on the run of it, I've not chased the wall out to see where it runs)... and this will be fine to run the two appliances off it.
The amps are: washing m/c - 10A, dishwasher - 13A... he did say that the spur cable may need to be changed from 2.5 to 4mm if the calculation of resistance is greater than the cable can take, but said it's not likely...
Anyway. My query is, what advantage is this spur over just dropping another cable from that fused connection socket, changing the single socket below to a double - thus joining it to the ring?
Thanks
Have just read this: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=126081
Now I'm a bit confused - is what my friend is proposing alright? I've re-asked for confirmation and he says its fine.
Thanks.
Now I'm a bit confused - is what my friend is proposing alright? I've re-asked for confirmation and he says its fine.
Thanks.
Two heavy current using appliances such as a washing machine and dishwasher plugged into a double socket is never a good idea.
Not sure where he is going with 4mm, if it is to attach to the existing 2.5mm ring via the 20A DP switch for current carrying capacity of the spur then that is a bad idea too.
Separate spurs for each appliance would be my choice.
Not sure where he is going with 4mm, if it is to attach to the existing 2.5mm ring via the 20A DP switch for current carrying capacity of the spur then that is a bad idea too.
Separate spurs for each appliance would be my choice.
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There is nothing wrong with what he is proposing as far as the circuit is concerned but -
it is not advisable to have a WM and DW in the same socket.
It would be better to change the present switch and socket with -
EITHER two SFCUs and separate cable to two single sockets
OR two single sockets and two single sockets below and put all on the Ring.
it is not advisable to have a WM and DW in the same socket.
It would be better to change the present switch and socket with -
EITHER two SFCUs and separate cable to two single sockets
OR two single sockets and two single sockets below and put all on the Ring.
Two switches above the worktop and two single sockets below is the only proper way to do this.
A 13A switched fused spur in place of your existing 20A dp switch is just going to go thru fuses like no one business if both appliances are on together.
You can't leave your existing switch in place and use it to supply a double socket either, as a double socket can be loaded to 26A which exceeds the 20A rating of the switch, but it's never a good idea to have two heavy appliances plugged in to the same double socket anyway.
A 13A switched fused spur in place of your existing 20A dp switch is just going to go thru fuses like no one business if both appliances are on together.
You can't leave your existing switch in place and use it to supply a double socket either, as a double socket can be loaded to 26A which exceeds the 20A rating of the switch, but it's never a good idea to have two heavy appliances plugged in to the same double socket anyway.
Thanks folks - just after I posted this I spoke with him again, and he's pretty much said the same as you all (in theory, the circuit is fine) - but when I re-iterated that they will most likely be both on at the same time (two young kids means a lot of nappy washing, and the washing up is just getting more and more) he said then the best way in this case is to do the 2 singles, each off a FSU..
That's more in what I was thinking of too, as it means that the appliances can be turned off so our toddler can't go around pressing the buttons and turning things on when they're off. It's fine when they're on, due to the childlocks, but when they're off she'll fiddle with them if you turn your head for a second.
Going to speak again tomorrow with him so I can see the best way of doing it so I can do all the prep work, etc.
That's more in what I was thinking of too, as it means that the appliances can be turned off so our toddler can't go around pressing the buttons and turning things on when they're off. It's fine when they're on, due to the childlocks, but when they're off she'll fiddle with them if you turn your head for a second.
Going to speak again tomorrow with him so I can see the best way of doing it so I can do all the prep work, etc.
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