Switching from Standard 2 Gang one way light switch to Wifi Smart Light Switch

[Stevo77]

So, I'd like to swap my existing 2 gang light switch in the lounge (which operates wall lights and central light) to a wifi smart light switch that does the same.

Is there anyone on here that can advise as to whether how I think I show do this is right please?

I think if you look at the pictures that I have neutral wires that are capped at the back of the backbox. Therefore, I was thinking (but would welcome knowing if this is right), that I run a neutral cable from 'N' on the new switch back up into the collection of capped neutral wires at the back of the back box (or do all those neutral wires do different things?). I then take away the little cable that joins the 2 holes marked 'Common' on the old switch. The 2 wires which are left in the 'Common' holes on the old switch both go into 'L' on the new switch and the remaining 2 brown wires in holes marked '1 way' on the old switch go into L1 and L2 respectively.....

Thanks for any advice....

 

[mwatsonxx]

That new switch looks like a 1x2 way therefore it can't replace the existing 2x2way - being used as 2x1way. You need another switch or a different switch that can function as the existing. Also that switch will not fit into the back box

 

[EFLImpudence]

Surely there were instructions and a disgram with the switch.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

That new switch looks like a 1x2 way

No it doesn't.

 

[mwatsonxx]

That new switch looks like a 1x2 way

No it doesn't.

Panto time, Oh, yes it does.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Well - I guess it might look like one to someone who doesn't understand what he is looking at.

 

[rsgaz]

The PDF for that model number shows this...

...but it also says it is 32mm deep, so you'll need to chisel out some of the wall and set the box in deeper to fit it.

 

[mwatsonxx]

Well - I guess it might look like one to someone who doesn't understand what he is looking at.

Notice you were too frightened to say what it was, because it would have been a guess.

Still LOOKS like a 1x2way.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Surely it is a 2x1 way.

 

[mwatsonxx]

Surely it is a 2x1 way.

Then why did you say

Surely there were instructions and a disgram with the switch.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Because it is the law that things like this should have instructions with them (if bought from reputable suppliers).


I was going by the diagram from rsgaz and the OP's picture in which it looks like there is provision for L3 and L4 as well.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Notice you were too frightened to say what it was, because it would have been a guess.

I was not too frightened, and I saw no need to say what it was - I was just highlighting yet another mistake you have made because of your ignorance.

Still LOOKS like a 1x2way.

No - we know that it is an electronic switch, and therefore what it looks like to someone who understands what he is seeing is a 2-gang electronic switch.

Now - at this point you can keep on trying to rationalise away your mistake, and thus make yourself look a bigger and bigger fool, and have this go down as another of your egregiously ignorant screwups.

Or you can slink away, try to pretend that this never happened, and just have it go down as another of your egregiously ignorant screwups.

(I'm assuming, BTW, that just as with every previous occasion you will eschew the option of admitting you were wrong and apologising.)

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Surely it is a 2x1 way.

It is.

And watson now realises that it is, but would sooner stick red-hot needles into his own eyeballs than admit it.

 

[Stevo77]

Thanks guys. Old switch is 2 gang 1 way, as is new one. There is a diagram as well. I'm just struggling to understand which of the wires in the back box and old switch need to go where in the new one.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You've got 4 cables at the switch.

Two are the lighting circuit ones, in and out, so they have to remain connected or a bunch of your lights will stop working.

Two are the cables with switched lives going to the two lights.

The biggest problem you have (after the physical space needed) is that you only have 4 ports in the push-in connector for the neutrals, so you won't be able to just link it to the N terminal of the switch.