Table Lamp PAT Test advice.

[BQW]

I have been given some 240volt table lamps to PAT Test, that were recently purchased, from a well known large retailer.
The lamp shade and the supporting stand and body are all made of metal.
There are no markings to indicate if it is double insulated appliance.
It is fitted with clear twin 0.75 flex that is double insulated but is not colour codded, both conductors are sheathed in clear plastic.
Other than its CSA the flex has no markings or BS numbers.
Again the inline single pole switch has no BS number but a CE mark.
The attached 13 Plug has a BS1363A Mark.
After some deliberation I have failed them on the Flex.
I would be interested to know if other forum members agree.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

If it isn't marked with the double insulated symbol then you have to test it as Class 1- which of course it is going to fail. Send them back.
EDIT I've found with stuff like that the double insulated symbol is often on a sticky label on the flex which the proud purchaser removes cos it looks ugly.

 

[BQW]

That's right, two label's on the mains flex, but neither have any indication of it being double insulated.
But is the unmarked flex also a reason to fail it ?

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Mmm, valid point. Fortunately I don't have to think about it cos it already failed on earth impedance .
Thinking on, yes you are probably right to be suspicious of the cable, with no voltage rating marked it would be iffy to certify it as fit for use.

 

[opps]

Sorry, I am not trying to be pedantic.

If the fitting has no earth and no (longer has a ) sign saying that it is double insulated, why should that automatically be a fail?

In this case, yeah, it sounds like it should fail though.

Sorry, I am just trying to understand the regs rather than questioning them.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

The Book (Guide to In Service Inspection of Electrical Appliances or something like that) says if an appliance is not marked as Class 2 (double insulated) it should be inspected and tested as a Class 1 (earthed) appliance.
Part of testing Class 1 appliances is to check earth continuity from the plug to exposed metal parts on the appliance (using high current- typically 25A for non IT kit)- 2 core cable pretty much guarantees a fail at that stage.
If it only had a 2 pin plug and wasn't marked as double insulated it would fail on visual inspection.

 

[RandomGrinch]

As there are no 'regs' regarding PAT'ing, It would come down to my Risk Assessment.
If this was supplied by a major brand, and I can see that the parts are well made, secured, and that double insulation can be maintained ....and that the appliance would be used in a low risk environment; I would be happy to test it as DI.
If it was a Poundland special, I may have second thoughts!

 

[RandomGrinch]

using high current- typically 25A for non IT kit)

Most go for 1.5 times the fuse rating now.
A lot of modern testers have multiple test ranges.
For instance we have labs full of equipment that isn't officially 'IT'.
A bench multimeter may be practically DI, apart from one earth terminal connected through the PCB - putting 25A through that would be inadvisable!

Edit:
We also have plenty of 'homemade' electrical items. No CE marks etc. But made to a proper standards by electrical engineers (and me!).
We also produce a technical portfolio to go with the appliance.
So even not having a CE mark, doesn't necessarily mean an item can't pass a PAT for us, because no-one makes some of the appliances we need!
....but again, it all comes down to the RA

Edit 2:
Alternative tests are also valid, if your tester is capable, you could try a touch leakage test?

 

[ericmark]

I have failed items with metal parts and no Class II sticker as I can't be sure they are safe in an environment with no RCD protection, but would pass the same item where all circuits are RCD protected, same goes for a wet environment. It does not really matter is RCD protected or not, one can still get a nasty shock, so technically I suppose I was wrong passing items where I felt sticker missing rather than not Class II.

But the sticker can be misleading, I remember a mag mount drill with class II sticker, and it was clear to me the class II only refereed to drill, the mag mount was class I.

So if not sure, fail it.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Does an item cease to be Class II when the sticker falls off?

 

[securespark]

but would pass the same item where all circuits are RCD protected,

What about when you plug that item into a socket that isn't? After all they are portable appliances!

 

[securespark]

Does an item cease to be Class II when the sticker falls off?

I would want to cover my arse.
Manufacturers could do a lot to help
The DI symbol could be made a whole lot more durable, in the same way that the regs demand durable labels.

Similarly, marking BS numbers on the flex etc....

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I would want to cover my arse.
Manufacturers could do a lot to help
The DI symbol could be made a whole lot more durable, in the same way that the regs demand durable labels.

Similarly, marking BS numbers on the flex etc....

All the above- I'm not carrying the liability for some piece of tat that someone has snuck in to a workplace. Grownups tell us we have to do x y z well that's what we'll do. Job takes longer/costs more, grownups whine, point them at their own policies, method statements etc.

 

[RandomGrinch]

I would even suggest that whether it is class 1 or 2 is a moot point.
With an RA based approach to PAT - the class will provide the starting point for the test strategy.

A class2 item doesn't even need to have a physical test - insulation tests and especially flash tests aren't required; a formal visual inspection is all that may be needed.

Earth bond and insulation tests may still be appropriate for a class 1 appliance; but even then an IT server for example, with a working life of 5 years before renewal, may never need a test.

An appliance such as the OP's (If I had a legitimate concern), would have an individual test regime - a visual inspection, an insulation test, a touch leakage test and increased testing frequency. But that really is OTT for a desk lamp!

Edit: it would be interesting to see a couple of pictures of the lamp in question
...and as no one has mentioned it so far:

 

[EFLImpudence]

I would want to cover my arse.
Manufacturers could do a lot to help
The DI symbol could be made a whole lot more durable, in the same way that the regs demand durable labels.
Similarly, marking BS numbers on the flex etc....

I appreciate that, but are there not instructions for determining whether something is Class II regardless of a sticker?

That is: double insulation, cable restraint, terminals enclosed in an insulated enclosure etc.


I realise no one would want to bother but it would be possible to make a Class I item into Class II by altering the connection method and conversely, for the same reason, an originally Class II item might subsequently become Class I - even if it had an indelible Class II marking.

What I am getting at is that it is not the sticker, or indelible marking, which magically makes an item Class II.