i get you now, however texecom are and have updated all there panels (renamed at least) if there is any better features etv of the new panels then i will be also upgrading my panel to the latest current one,
texecom update part 2:
- Thread starter lee2009
- Start date
i get you now, however texecom are and have updated all there panels (renamed at least) if there is any better features etv of the new panels then i will be also upgrading my panel to the latest current one,
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well back on topic, just opened up and tested the texecom bell box
very loud indeed, build quality good too, very impressed with it, i dont really like the green leds, so i may modify and swap these out for some nice blue leds.
just had another bargin from ebay.
10x texecom AMDT+ cheapest i could find them via google was £23.58 each, so to buy 10 of these would be £235.80, i have just paid £30 yes 30 quid for 10 of these units.
ill keep 5 of them, and 2 spare, the other 3 will be resold.
i now require 1 or 2 more internal sounders (for sheds) and maybe another 100m reel of 8 core, and 2 or 3 smoke detectors for my panel.
that will be my shopping list complete.
very loud indeed, build quality good too, very impressed with it, i dont really like the green leds, so i may modify and swap these out for some nice blue leds.
just had another bargin from ebay.
10x texecom AMDT+ cheapest i could find them via google was £23.58 each, so to buy 10 of these would be £235.80, i have just paid £30 yes 30 quid for 10 of these units.
ill keep 5 of them, and 2 spare, the other 3 will be resold.
i now require 1 or 2 more internal sounders (for sheds) and maybe another 100m reel of 8 core, and 2 or 3 smoke detectors for my panel.
that will be my shopping list complete.
H
hereisthetruth
Lee if you are a tech Geek - What can you do to make your alarm somehow better than the rest.
I am thinking along the lines of your alarm setting as you simply walk out of the house and then unsetting as you come home.
Perhaps with some gsm jiggerypokery from your phone so that the alarm sets when you get 10m away from your front door and unsets when you get within 5m of your front door?
Just by carrying your phone on you - tech geek - possible?
I am thinking along the lines of your alarm setting as you simply walk out of the house and then unsetting as you come home.
Perhaps with some gsm jiggerypokery from your phone so that the alarm sets when you get 10m away from your front door and unsets when you get within 5m of your front door?
Just by carrying your phone on you - tech geek - possible?
everything is possible, however as i dont write software or design apps, that is a little above me lol.
you could have the phone through gps, send a signal to the alarm etc to disarm etc etc. but you would also need the source code to all of texecoms equipment etc, and as its security you cant have it arming and disarming at will
full home automation is the future, but until everyone sings off the same hymm sheets and standadise protocols etc its still a long way off.
it would be easier to have the keyfob send out stronger signal etc, so if you was walking down your garden path or arriving on your drive it would disarm the system, turn interior lights on if dark, turn the kettle on etc, grr i love this stuff.
you could have the phone through gps, send a signal to the alarm etc to disarm etc etc. but you would also need the source code to all of texecoms equipment etc, and as its security you cant have it arming and disarming at will
full home automation is the future, but until everyone sings off the same hymm sheets and standadise protocols etc its still a long way off.
it would be easier to have the keyfob send out stronger signal etc, so if you was walking down your garden path or arriving on your drive it would disarm the system, turn interior lights on if dark, turn the kettle on etc, grr i love this stuff.
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Thats a piece of p*ss. 
Get a ricochet system,
superglue a wireless sensor to your phone,
have an output drive a relay on supervision failure,
have the relay output to a zone programmed as keyswitch.
Presto, leave your house for more than a few mins your alarm system arms. Just make sure your back less than 2 hours later or you may have to stand around outside waiting for it to unset.
Thats a joke by the way and no way a serious proposal.
Get a ricochet system,
superglue a wireless sensor to your phone,
have an output drive a relay on supervision failure,
have the relay output to a zone programmed as keyswitch.
Presto, leave your house for more than a few mins your alarm system arms. Just make sure your back less than 2 hours later or you may have to stand around outside waiting for it to unset.
Thats a joke by the way and no way a serious proposal.
H
hereisthetruth
Thats a piece of p*ss.
Get a ricochet system,
superglue a wireless sensor to your phone,
have an output drive a relay on supervision failure,
have the relay output to a zone programmed as keyswitch.
Presto, leave your house for more than a few mins your alarm system arms. Just make sure your back less than 2 hours later or you may have to stand around outside waiting for it to unset.
Hmm a bit Heath Robinson methinks..
Thats a joke by the way and no way a serious proposal.
i wouldnt flash a panel untill its been out a few months let them iron out all the bugs first lol. its only took 2 years to finally bring out the dualcom inside panel and at least 4 for there own gsm module
H
hereisthetruth
Believe it or not Yale do a new grade 2 range with X10 all built in!!!
http://digital.yale.co.uk/products/smarthome-alarm#!features.htm
someone clarifty this for me.
the leds are green on the bell box (texecom) i want to rip these out and replace for blue.
on my mulitimeter, the led uses around 2v when flashing.
can i simply replace these leds with some 12v blue ones, with a slightly brighter ones? the green ones are 100mcd (brightbess)
the leds are green on the bell box (texecom) i want to rip these out and replace for blue.
on my mulitimeter, the led uses around 2v when flashing.
can i simply replace these leds with some 12v blue ones, with a slightly brighter ones? the green ones are 100mcd (brightbess)
12V LED's have internal current limiting resistors, so will not work as a straight swap.
You'll need to use standard bright LED's that don't have resistors fitted.
The Odyssey 3 LED's are driven via a dedicated Texecom IC. From my notes, this outputs around 5V and has a 270R resistor in series.
You'll need to use standard bright LED's that don't have resistors fitted.
The Odyssey 3 LED's are driven via a dedicated Texecom IC. From my notes, this outputs around 5V and has a 270R resistor in series.
The current it takes is more important. And how that current is supplied and controlled will determine what type of LED can safely replace the green one.
Some LEDs have built in current limiting resistors and some have the flashing circuit built into the LED.
Fit an LED that takes more current and you may burn out the device that supplies the LED with current. It might not burn out immediately but take a few days or weeks before the overloaded device finally packs up.
EDIT after after the post from socdesign.
A blue LED has a higher forward voltage, typically 3.5 volts, than a green LED so the voltage across the 270 ohm resistor will be reduced by 1.5 volts ( 3.5 blue minus 2.0 green ) which will reduce the current through the LED.. You may need to alter the 270 ohm resistor to bring the current to the maximum continuous current for the blue LED if you want it to be bright.
Have you checked that a flashing blue light would be legal on a not alarmed external box.
Forward voltage: 1.8 - 3.4V DC
Luminous intensity: 500-20000 mcd
Forward Current : 18-20mA
Forward Voltage : 3.0-3.2V (Blue, White, Green,Warm White) ; 2.0-2.2V (Red, Yellow)
so would 2x the above be ok? as the odd 4 has 2 green ones in, there is no resistors on the above leds really sure they are just standard.
Luminous intensity: 500-20000 mcd
Forward Current : 18-20mA
Forward Voltage : 3.0-3.2V (Blue, White, Green,Warm White) ; 2.0-2.2V (Red, Yellow)
so would 2x the above be ok? as the odd 4 has 2 green ones in, there is no resistors on the above leds really sure they are just standard.
I tried a couple of white LED's as replacements and they were running at about 8mA (crude measurement on my uncalibrated DMM). They were actually very bright in the Texecom bellbox and really lit up the blue lens. Perhaps a little too bright for comfort LED's even!
yes i can see what your saying, they could be a little bright.
not sure about the legialitys of blue leds on non alarmed systems syre i have seen blue comfort leds before.
not sure about the legialitys of blue leds on non alarmed systems syre i have seen blue comfort leds before.
One has to be carefull when changing LED type
The current measured as 8 mA may be pulses of a higher current which the meter is averaging out to be 8 mA.
Pulsing an LED at say 4 times it's maximum continuous current for less than 25% of the time makes the LED look much brighter than if it was running on its maximum current and is a way to use less power if the pulse lasts say 10% of the time. If the LED is being pulsed then the maximum pulse current has to be taken into account in the design of how large the current pulses are.
The current measured as 8 mA may be pulses of a higher current which the meter is averaging out to be 8 mA.
Pulsing an LED at say 4 times it's maximum continuous current for less than 25% of the time makes the LED look much brighter than if it was running on its maximum current and is a way to use less power if the pulse lasts say 10% of the time. If the LED is being pulsed then the maximum pulse current has to be taken into account in the design of how large the current pulses are.
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