Thinking of Wireless Room Thermostat

[D_Hailsham]

Hi,
The Plate to the right of the cut of switch is the over the top worktop fused spur switch for my washing machine plug socket that is under the worktop.
So this switch when on is a permanent live in it.

Pity; I was hoping it was something to do with the boiler.

When you say find out what all the wires are, do you mean in the Junction/wiring box?

No; I was taking about the wires behind the plate mentioned above.

Your only option is to mount the relay box near the programmer and wire direct into into the programmer.

Wire as follows (I am assuming a Honeywell DT902E):

Programmer L - Relay L
Programmer N - Relay N
Programmer 4 - Disconnect the existing wire and connect the wire to Relay B (this is a correction)
Programmer 4 - Relay A (this is a correction)

At the junction/wiring box

Disconnect all wires to the existing thermostat (T2, T4 and T5) and make safe. Leave the other wires connected.

Link T4 to T5

As to your next question about using the Live on the programmer, This is perfectly OK - as you can see from the above. I was just trying to avoid having to make holes in the wall and spoiling what appears to be a neat installation.

 

[kevin123456]

Thank you very much for your help.
I hope to have a go at it in the next few days and your instructions have been very clear and precise. I will let you know how I gwt on or if I have any problems.

 

[kevin123456]

I can not see how to thank you anywhere or I would.

 

[D_Hailsham]

I can not see how to thank you anywhere or I would.

Look in the top right corner of any post - except one of your own.

PS I got terminals A and B muddled up - see my corrected version above.

 

[kevin12345]

Sorry to come back so late on this post but I have only just got the actual wireless thermostat to fit. I was going to buy one ages ago but I was promised a free one that a Friend didn't need any more and it has taken this long to receive it.
The model of the Wireless stat I have now is Honeywell Y6630D1007 not the
Honeywell DT902E as for your instructions.
I have a couple of more questions if you don't mind before I start.

It was found that I don't have a permanent Live in my Junction/Wiring Box in my airing cupboard so I have to take my Live from my Boiler timer/programmer.

I can see the Live and Neutral connections on the Programmer and I take your instructions as I run a new wire from them to the Relay Live and Neutral?

I do have the wiring instructions for the new wireless stat but there are so many different wiring options I'm not 100% what I need.

Would I just carry on following your same instructions for wiring this new stat?

You said on the Programmer terminal 4, disconnect the wire and connect the wire to Relay B. Do you mean run a new wire from Programmer terminal 4 to Relay B or extend the current wire I have just disconnected from Programmer terminal 4 to Relay B?

Next step you say Programmer 4 to Relay A. Do you mean run a new wire between these points?

Then your instructions for the Junction/wiring box was to disconnect the wires to the existing thermostat (T2, T4 and T5) I know which ones these are because there is only one wire going to the T5 top terminal so it must be this one and the other two wires coming out of the same cable,correct?

You then say link T4 to T5, not sure what you mean by that, could you please explain again?


Again, I do apologize for asking again but it has been so long I wanted to make sure

I have included photo of Programmer back and Junction/wiring Box

Untitled

• kevin12345
• 25 May 2013
• 1

Untitled

• kevin12345
• 25 May 2013
• 1

 

[twgas]

You need to join L & N in the prog to L & N in the relay box.
Link L and A in the relay box. Remove wire from 4 in prog and connect to B in relay (use a proper cable connector). You will also need to disconnect the old room 'stat wires in the junction box and link the switch terminals.

 

[kevin12345]

Link L and A in the relay box. Remove wire from 4 in prog and connect to B in relay (use a proper cable connector). You will also need to disconnect the old room 'stat wires in the junction box and link the switch terminals.

Thanks for the reply.
When you say Link L and A in the relay box, I take it you are talking about L as being the Live that I have already connected to from the programmer? I just wanted to make such because the model relay I have has two L's. it has a block of 3 terminals together N,L and L.
When I disconnect the old thermostat in the Junction box do you mean put the two disconnected switch wires together in a block? would these be T4 and T5?

 

[kevin12345]

My other question is that the only sensible place for me to fit the relay is about 300mm below the Boiler. Do you think that will be OK? they say to fit to one side of boiler in instructions.

 

[twgas]

Sorry, i gave you instructions for programable stat, i think the one you've got is just a temperature 'stat.
So here goes, L & N to L & N as before.
DO NOT LINK L & A.
Remove wire from 4 in prog and join to B in relay, also as before.
You also need to connect 4 in prog to A in relay.
The link in junction box is a short wire that joins together the 2 terminals that the old room 'stat switch was removed from.

 

[kevin12345]

OK thanks, I think I have it now, I put a small wire in the Junction box to replace where I take the old stat from, linking terminals T4 and T5.

Yes it is only a Temperature wireless Stat.

What about placing the relay below the Boiler is that OK?

 

[twgas]

Below boiler should be fine

 

[kevin12345]

Hi,
I have fitted as your instructions but I think I have a problem.
The wireless room stat seems to be working, it connects with the relay and switches it on and off when I turn the stat up and down but I can not get the heating to start up even when I turn Stat up to 30 degrees it still doesn't kick in.
Any ideas?

 

[kevin12345]

My boiler is not starting up for the HW either.
Starting to panic now, might have to uninstall.

 

[kevin12345]

All the lights are working on the programmer but the boiler is not starting up.
Does it matter weather I link T4 and T5 at the top of the terminals or the bottom? I linked the top

 

[twgas]

Hmmmm.
Do you have a meter to test electrics?
It doesn't matter if link is top or bottom.