This purlin is supported like this. Any solutions to make it more secure?

[stolonsi]

OP,
The mention of roof tiles in your post #16 seems to be a first mention of the roof previously being off - why was the roof cover off?
1. A double brick wall makes a big difference for making the party wall safe for any purlin work.
2. After grinding out all the pointing to, say, a 30mm depth then re-point in a 3:1 sand & cement mix.
3. Then carefully open up pockets in the brickwork - "holes" or pockets one brick approx 4" deep.
4. Then use bolt-ons. See how rot damaged short ground floor joists are extended into wall pockets.
5. Use one length of timber to extend the purlin, and sister bolt-on timbers either side of the purlin & the extension piece. All three bolt-on pieces then sit in the hole or pocket.
6. Once in the pocket you can, if needed, wedge up the purlin to meet the rafters.
7. During this work the other end of the purlin should be firmly fixed on the other party wall - why not post a pic of the other end of the purlin?

The other end is a hip

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Supported as per noseall suggestion

Either that, or CBDE's suggestion of the angle iron. The angle iron will be the quicker solution.

 

[stolonsi]

Understood.
Sistering then ?

Sister the brick with timber? Or sister the purlin into the wall?

Silly me I just read the other post u did.

 

[noseall]

Either that, or CBDE's suggestion of the angle iron. The angle iron will be the quicker solution.

er....

Fix a timber post under the corbel brick, to the wall. Add a length of pre-drilled angle iron (75mmx 75mm) to the underside of the purlin and allow it to extend fully onto the brick.

 

[stolonsi]

It cannot possibly have been built that way, so bowing shortening the length, or shrinkage, is the only explanation. The OP hasn't mentioned the roof bowing, and so...

Just checked the purlin is 100pc level so it can’t have shifted away as it would then be unlevel it does very much look like they used a short piece of timber 90 odd years ago. Shrinkage of that much would also be unlikely

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Just checked the purlin is 100pc level so it can’t have shifted away as it would then be unlevel it does very much look like they used a short piece of timber 90 odd years ago. Shrinkage of that much would also be unlikely

I notice in your photo, that the brick and the mortar, appear to be not nearly as old as the rest of the bricks, suggesting some action has been needed in the recent past. Shame they didn't do a more secure job, but it is what it is!

As we seem to have established the timber length cannot have shrunk, and it hasn't bowed, and it would not have been acceptable originally built like that, plus the wall hasn't bowed to the right - might the purlin and the roof, have moved over to the left?

May I remind @stolonsi at this stage, the easy way to sort the wheat from the chaff postings, is to simply point to a user name, in blue, on the left, whereupon a menu will appear, which includes the word 'ignore'. If you click on that, there troublesome, often offensive remarks, will disappear forever.

 

[robinbanks]

You say an equivalent purlin exists on the other side of the wall? Remove sufficient bricks that you can sister on to both sides of this one all the way through to that one, through bolting both sisters onto both purlins

 

[stolonsi]

OP,
No matter there's a hip at the far end of the purlin - still post a pic of that end?

Note this is the picture before the breathable membrane and tiles renewal.

 

[stolonsi]

OP,
The mention of roof tiles in your post #16 seems to be a first mention of the roof previously being off - why was the roof cover off?
1. A double brick wall makes a big difference for making the party wall safe for any purlin work.
2. After grinding out all the pointing to, say, a 30mm depth then re-point in a 3:1 sand & cement mix.
3. Then carefully open up pockets in the brickwork - "holes" or pockets one brick approx 4" deep.
4. Then use bolt-ons. See how rot damaged short ground floor joists are extended into wall pockets.
5. Use one length of timber to extend the purlin, and sister bolt-on timbers either side of the purlin & the extension piece. All three bolt-on pieces then sit in the hole or pocket.
6. Once in the pocket you can, if needed, wedge up the purlin to meet the rafters.
7. During this work the other end of the purlin should be firmly fixed on the other party wall - why not post a pic of the other end of the purlin?

so just i can remove the brick the current purlin is sitting on while I carry out the above?

Also could you maybe illustarte in a diagram so i can visualise what you mean. sorry to be a pain. (I think i get what you mean but just wnat to be double sure before i instruct someone to carry out the works)

 

[aveatry]

View attachment 365430

Now I am confused - I thought the tiles were off - so why have they been put back without any breather membrane/felt, but those tiles appear to have cobwebs on them - dont look newly done.

 

[stolonsi]

Now I am confused - I thought the tiles were off - so why have they been put back without any breather membrane/felt, but those tiles appear to have cobwebs on them - dont look newly done.

this was pre tiles being changed.

sorry for the confusion I dont have access to the loft today to take the new picture

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Well, that section of roof all looks perfectly straight and well supported.

so just i can remove the brick the current purlin is sitting on while I carry out the above?

No, don't touch that brick, until that purlin has an alternative support in place. If you remove the brick, you risk the roof collapsing on your head.

Provide it with alternative support, then you can do what ever you like in that area. The steel angle extension is the best idea I have read so far, and cemented into the wall, it don't think it would compromise the fire integrity of that party wall.

You would need to have the angle predrilled, ready to bolt onto the side of the purlin, and source some M12 threaded rod, nuts, and either very large washers, or a matching predrilled peace of flat steel, for the other side of the purlin.

 

[Koolpc]

Timber shrinks very little (if any) along the grain, even on ancient timber.

More or less what I was suggesting.

Like i said Jimmy, that would be one hell of a shrinkage!!

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I cant see it having shrunk that much though!!

We had little idea of the length, at the beginning of the thread.. Now we have a much better idea.

 

[Koolpc]

We had little idea of the length, at the beginning of the thread.. Now we have a much better idea.

Thats quite a gap between the timber and the wall though!