This purlin is supported like this. Any solutions to make it more secure?

[robinbanks]

The steel angle extension is the best idea I have read so far

Goes soft and collapses amazingly quickly in a fire though. A massive lump of wood, on the other hand, chars on the outside and self insulates..

I cant see it having shrunk that much though!!

I can, depending on the length. I've a wall in my place where it's obvious the purlin has pulled away a good 2 inches over its 4m span. It's incredibly dry and anything up to 50 degrees in summer inside the roof space. The wall is about 450 thick, engineering brick and stone; can't see it having contributed much by moving but open to argument that it's the wall, not the purlin..

 

[ree]

OP,
The purlin at the party wall would be simple to support while the work is carried out.
The common rafter purlin & the hip purlin at the far end are supported by the hip rafter.
Only when the support is in place should work begin.

 

[stolonsi]

OP,
The purlin at the party wall would be simple to support while the work is carried out.
The common rafter purlin & the hip purlin at the far end are supported by the hip rafter.
Only when the support is in place should work begin.

Thanks ree . What would you suggest for supporting the purlin near the brick?

 

[noseall]

. A massive lump of wood, on the other hand

Will be difficult to get into the loft and a pain to fix (bulky).

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Goes soft and collapses amazingly quickly in a fire though. A massive lump of wood, on the other hand, chars on the outside and self insulates..

The risk of fire is quite remote, the risk of collapse from lack of adequate support, is much more immediate and urgent.

I can, depending on the length. I've a wall in my place where it's obvious the purlin has pulled away a good 2 inches over its 4m span. It's incredibly dry and anything up to 50 degrees in summer inside the roof space. The wall is about 450 thick, engineering brick and stone; can't see it having contributed much by moving but open to argument that it's the wall, not the purlin..

Looking once again at the original photo, I see the area of what appears to be more recent mortar, includes all the area where that purlin would enter the wall.

But, assuming that purlin's length has not shrunk - another explanation might be that next door's purlin passed through the wall, since removed, and the OP's purlin was bolted to it. The OP hasn't mentioned what is or was next door.

 

[Dereekoo]

OP,
The purlin at the party wall would be simple to support while the work is carried out.
The common rafter purlin & the hip purlin at the far end are supported by the hip rafter.
Only when the support is in place should work begin.

And only when the work is done should the support be removed, I know thats obvious but ree started it. And work is begun as soon as you start fitting a support but we know what ree meant, I think?

 

[robinbanks]

Will be difficult to get into the loft and a pain to fix (bulky).

I can't honestly believe a person of your Kaliber actually thinks that's true, but maybe I've just been lucky that all the loft hatches I've had over the time have easily admitted a 6 ft plank..

To whom I could then pass a chunky section of timber

 

[aveatry]

I can't honestly believe a person of your Kaliber actually thinks that's true, but maybe I've just been lucky that all the loft hatches I've had over the time have easily admitted a 6 ft plank..

To whom I could then pass a chunky section of timber

I didn't understand that either but noseall is "supposed to be a builder" so I kept my mouth shut. I suppose its depends on where your hatch is if it is near the eves but who has a hatch there - you wouldn't even get your Christmas tree up there in that case.

 

[noseall]

I can't honestly believe a person of your Kaliber actually thinks that's true

That in construction, timber (strength equivalent) is considered much more bulky than steel? Whether it's true or not, depends on the customers' personal logistics.

However, I doubt there is a lot to chose between either method only that I would consider the steel angle remedy more wieldy and more DIY-able.

 

[stolonsi]

The risk of fire is quite remote, the risk of collapse from lack of adequate support, is much more immediate and urgent.



Looking once again at the original photo, I see the area of what appears to be more recent mortar, includes all the area where that purlin would enter the wall.

But, assuming that purlin's length has not shrunk - another explanation might be that next door's purlin passed through the wall, since removed, and the OP's purlin was bolted to it. The OP hasn't mentioned what is or was next door.

My purlin was sitting on eroded bricks. The purlins didn’t pass the wall. Next door presumably has a purling in the same place.

 

[noseall]

I can, depending on the length. I've a wall in my place where it's obvious the purlin has pulled away a good 2 inches over its 4m span. It's incredibly dry and anything up to 50 degrees in summer inside the roof space. The wall is about 450 thick, engineering brick and stone; can't see it having contributed much by moving but open to argument that it's the wall, not the purlin..

Timber does not shrink (much, if anything) along the grain.

2" lol.

The movement will be attributed to other factors and certainly nothing to do with 2" of shrinkage along the grain. Not even remotely possible.

 

[robinbanks]

Yea, ok; just been for another look at it and realised the way it's connected to the others the span is conceptually more like 20m and it's pulled out of the wall somewhere between one and two inches, depending on why you judge by

 

[noseall]

My purlin was sitting on eroded bricks. The purlins didn’t pass the wall. Next door presumably has a purling in the same place.

At least now you know what you need to do, i.e. extend the existing beam using a sistered piece of timber or a length of pre-drilled angle steel, etc. The brick will still need additional support.

 

[stolonsi]

At least now you know what you need to do, i.e. extend the existing beam using a sistered piece of timber or a length of pre-drilled angle steel, etc. The brick will still need additional support.

Still the headache of trying to prop the purlin up. Think it would be sufficient to prop up from the room below?

Also who would one instruct to carry out such works and ball park of costs in the Kent area?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Still the headache of trying to prop the purlin up. Think it would be sufficient to prop up from the room below?

It might be, but we have absolutely no idea of the construction of your property, number of floors etc..

Also who would one instruct to carry out such works and ball park of costs in the Kent area?

Find some builders willing to quote for it, or it is DIY'able. Planks - acro props can be hired, measure up, and draw a digram of the steel needed and find a local engineer able to source, cut, and drill it.