Twin to triple socket converter. Will the fuse blow?

[chssvl]

Hi all. At present I have a normal double gang socket in my kitchen to which I have the washing machine and the dishwasher connected. These rarely if ever operate at the same time - but I guess it has happened. The max power rating of the washing machine is 2050W and the max power rating of the dishwasher is 2000-2400, although I suspect they never really reach that level.

In any case, I may need to get a third socket to power something else, which, again, will rarely operate at the same time as the other two things. I've been looking at something like https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-2g-to-3g-switched-converter-socket-white/898cc , but it has a 13A fuse. My question is, if I use something like this do I run the risk of the fuse in this new socket blowing easily if the two devices ever operate at the same time?

I'm guessing that because the current socket is unfused then this is not an issue (and I live in a relatively new build, so I'm guessing that the sockets are rated for higher amps, from what I've read). Should I therefore look for an unfused converter?

 

[Risteard]

Those sorts of appliances should each be on a single socket-outlet. A double socket-outlet is not rated for that. (They are only rated for 20A across both outlets, tested with a slight overload (14A) on one side and 6A on the other.)

In this sense the triple socket-outlet is probably less risky as it is fused, but it's still not the correct way to supply these loads.

 

[ETAF]

not a registered electrician - BUT I would use single sockets for those sort of appliances , high power rating things like Hobs, Ovens, Washing machines , dishwasers etc

double sockets are not usually rated for 26A to be drawn

very roughly 9-11 Amps on each ... so adding a 3way whats the 3rd outlet going to be used ?

so yes it will blow a 13A fuse
there is the same question pretty much on the item screwfix Q&A - the little tab on the left is the 13A fuse tray

 

[Taylortwocities]

And you wont be able to buy a 3-gang socket that doesn't have a13amp fuse.

The proper way to do this is to install a new socket as a spur from the existing. There are checks to do first to ensure that the existing is suitable for the additional socket.

 

[chssvl]

Hmmmm. I thought that would be the case and that it wouldn't be so simple.

Just to check, "a new socket as a spur from the existing", does that mean with a a suitable electric wire from one socket to the other or a new wire all the way from the fusebox?

 

[ETAF]

SPUR = from the existing socket to the new socket

 

[chssvl]

OK. That makes sense. I was checking and there are no spurs from the existing socket and as it's a new build (less than 10 years), I'm assuming it's not a radial circuit (which I understand is an additional possible complication).

If I were to add a spur, does there need to be set distance between the spur and the existing socket or could I have both next to each other, i.e. could I enlarge the existing hole in the wall to house a single socket box next to the existing double and then use 2.5mm wire from one box to the other?

 

[Taylortwocities]

OK. That makes sense. I was checking and there are no spurs from the existing socket and as it's a new build (less than 10 years), I'm assuming it's not a radial circuit (which I understand is an additional possible complication).
What is the current rating of the MCB protecting the existing socket.
If I were to add a spur, does there need to be set distance between the spur and the existing socket or could I have both next to each other, i.e. could I enlarge the existing hole in the wall to house a single socket box next to the existing double and then use 2.5mm wire from one box to the other?

What is the rating of the MCB protecting the existing circuit. How many cables are connected to the existing socket?
There’s no rules about distances of spurs. Except volt drop over VERY long cables.

 

[chssvl]

Thanks. 32A on the MCB for all sockets in the kitchen, including these. Cooker and oven are on a separate circuit, i.e. that 32A MCB is for the fridge, washing machine, dishwasher, cooker hood, extractor fan and three pairs of sockets on the kitchen counter.

Three cables go into the existing socket, i.e. one L, one N and one ground.

[Edit] Also, just to add, there is an isolator switch for this socket on an isolator switch grid for the different kitchen appliances

 

[Taylortwocities]

Then you can’t spur off that socket as it is already a spur from the ring.
You’ll need to choose a socket that hasn’t got an isolation switch in the grid layout.

 

[chssvl]

I see. Just to be sure I understand, there is effectively a ring before the grid and each of the switches (and the socket downstream from it) is effectively a spur, right?

Is there effectively an amp rating on each of these spurs?

 

[JohnD]

Hobs

An electric hob needs it's own hard-wired circuit, not a plug and socket.

 

[ETAF]

there are quite a few hobs on the market that come with a 13A plug & play for normal use

 

[JohnD]

No, there are a few little ones of low power.

And some that can be downgraded to low power.

 

[Taylortwocities]

No, there are a few little ones of low power.

Stop talking about hobs . The OP hasn’t mentioned that is what they want to plug in.