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Remembered to look tonight, used 0.56 kWh today. At that daily use no way will oil be cheaper.
Having read that far. and 'assuming' that you were talking about 'indirect' heating (which is the only sort of boiler-driven DHW system I have personally experienced), I had started mentally rehearsing my response (as reproduced below), but then got to the end of your post and read ...Doesn't necessarily work that way. .... Let's say we want the top of the tank at 60°C, and the boiler is set up for a max delta-T of 20°C (stanard max for gas boilers). Absent "something additional", to get 60° out of the boiler means putting 40° in - so you have to partially heat the entire tank. ....That "something" can be one of several things : .....
Anyway, sticking with my initial 'assumption' of indirect heating, although I agree in concept with what you say in the first quote above, I'm not sure that it is necessarily anything like as much of an issue as you seem to imply ....All of those can allow for only heating part of the tank to a usable temperature - assuming direct as my stores are. It's a bit more complicated if indirect as (as mentioned earlier) you then get complex currents in the tank as hot water round the coil thermosyphons upwards through cooker water.
What does happen is the hot water rises to the top, just as everyone has been posting, however what happens when the heating stops is the continued currents circulate and the 'hot' water gradually warms the cooler water and the junction between hot and cold gradually lowers, both in location and temperature and it gets deeper to, Of course the 'junction' is not a sudden step it is a zone across which is a graduated temperature.
I understand the difficulty but let's pretend there is a distinct thermal barrier (Imagine there is a real copper barrier if it helps) the hot water sits on a surface of a lower temperature. By simple thermal conductivity:I'm just not seeing that later mixing effect here, apart from when hot water is drawn off - cold water enters at the base, hot exits at the top, so naturally there will be some mixing effect, yet if I draw a bath full of water, and leave the hot tap on, the hot water will quite suddenly change in temperature, to cool/cold.
Feeling the temperature of the hot water, coming out of the hot tap, gives not clues about how much of the cylinder water is hot.
I don't know whether it's been mentioned, but one reason for using the boiler for HW is that the kit gets regular exercise. If it's off all summer, you might switch CH on in November and find there's a problem, eg pump seized.
OK but I doubt whether Eric's oil boiler is that sophisticated.Not in my case - the pump is controlled by the boiler, for overrun. The boiler has a built-in what seems to be a daily exercise routine, to run its fan, pump, and perhaps other things.
I;m sure Eric would be able to cobble something together.OK but I doubt whether Eric's oil boiler is that sophisticated.
I am sure I could, if there was a problem, however the only problem is I had wrongly assumed oil was cheaper than grid electric I again have read how much used today and shows 0.55 kWh, and at that consumption simply not worth doing anything about it.I;m sure Eric would be able to cobble something together.
YesI suppose direct is where the heat is put directly into the hot water store
Indeed - and that's what I have installed, but currently only have a gas boiler (and immersion heater for backup).... but most systems have a hot coil, and these can both impart the heat into the cylinder and extract the heat, a system like this View attachment 353885 allows the hot water to be at cold water pressure, without pressurising the whole cylinder. The main idea is to allow the use of multi heating sources.
When I out the store in the flat, the flat was empty so I could take measurements. With no loads and heated by the immersion, the standing losses were 80W, or just under 2kWHr/day. By contrast, tge cimbi next door could burn double that in it's "keep the HE warm for instant hit water" non-eco mode.However other than the fire tube boiler, there is some pipe work which can loose heat, seem to remember at Sizewell the boiler is heated with high pressure water, that transfers the heat from the reactor. That pipework is the problem, it is where the heat is lost, and to maintain the water at a useable temperature only requires 0.56 kWh, and when so little heat is required, one does not need to loose much for the indirect heating system to loose too much.
This is interesting, likely mine is better due to airing cupboard being stuffed full. So you are using around 3 times what I am using if that is the iboost+ gives an accurate reading.When I out the store in the flat, the flat was empty so I could take measurements. With no loads and heated by the immersion, the standing losses were 80W, or just under 2kWHr/day. By contrast, tge cimbi next door could burn double that in it's "keep the HE warm for instant hit water" non-eco mode.
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