Vaillant EcoTech Pro 28 - Hive Install

[Carreauchompeur]

Sorted! Thanks very much for the advice... I did have to check the connections at least 8 times before switching on to make sure though!

 

[Robert Huddleston]

If it is like the diagram I have posted, then wire the Hive N & L to the boilers N & L and Hive terminals 1 & 3 would go to the boiler terminals marked 24V DC room thermostat (RT 24) after the ubiquitous link is removed.

If you are in any doubt post a photo of your boiler's wiring terminals later and someone will be able to confirm.

THIS WORKED PERFECTLY. Many thanks.

 

[AntonVW]

Hi all sorry for the old thread. But I have a eco TEC pro 28 and my board is not the same as above. But tried connecting it as it should be but the hive thermostat 3rd gen and is still not making the boiler kick in once the temperature is moved up. Any help would be much appreciated. Here is a picture of my board layout..

 

[Robert Huddleston]

Hi Anton, judging by the pic of the board you have. It’s the same board as explained by Stem. The wiring explained as above. Assuming the receiver you are fitting is single channel these are the wiring pics from your mains feed and wiring from the boiler to receiver. The cable with the red mark shown on the second pic is the mains power cable.

 

[Robert Huddleston]

Pics showing the wiring at the boiler end. This works perfectly for your vaillant boiler Eco Tech Pro 28. The pic shows the wiring to the 24v side of the PCB. Note the blue block “boiler off” has a loop (red wire) Leave this in. If you are having issues with the thermostat check the thermostat is wireless connected to the hive hub? Also maybe check all is well via the Hive app. If the boiler is still not kicking in, check the water pressure on the front left display panel. The water level should be central between the high and low level markers on the window display. You may have to run water off if the pressure is too high?

 

[stem]

Have you checked to make sure that you have the correct 'single channel version' of the Hive?

Do the wires at the Hive 1 and 3 go to the RT (room thermostat) terminals at the other end? It doesn't matter which way around.

Does the boiler have any in built time control? If so, it should be set to be permanently 'on' 24/7 otherwise it will interfere with the operation of the Hive.

Is the Hive receiver powering up OK, showing that it is receiving 230V?

What happens when the manual button on the front of the receiver is pressed. Does the Central heating light come on?

I'm not sure why you refer to it as a "Hive 3rd Gen" 3rd Gen is a term usually associated with the Nest Thermostat. However the backplate you show is Hive and not Nest.

 

[AntonVW]

Have you checked to make sure that you have the correct 'single channel version' of the Hive?

Do the wires at the Hive 1 and 3 go to the RT (room thermostat) terminals at the other end? It doesn't matter which way around.

View attachment 161056

Does the boiler have any in built time control? If so, it should be set to be permanently 'on' 24/7 otherwise it will interfere with the operation of the Hive.

Is the Hive receiver powering up OK, showing that it is receiving 230V?

What happens when the manual button on the front of the receiver is pressed. Does the Central heating light come on?

I'm not sure why you refer to it as a "Hive 3rd Gen" 3rd Gen is a term usually associated with the Nest Thermostat. However the backplate you show is Hive and not Nest.

Thanks for the update. All sorted was the common that wasn't connected. All sorted and working. Thanks once again

 

[Blueski]

Hi, My Pro 28 r2 is slightly different. My cables are as attached so not sure what goes into the channels on the hive receiver.

 

[stem]

I'm not sure why you think it's different. The picture you posted...

Looks pretty much the same as.....

Have you checked to make sure that you have the correct 'single channel version' of the Hive?

Do the wires at the Hive 1 and 3 go to the RT (room thermostat) terminals at the other end? It doesn't matter which way around.

...to me

 

[Blueski]

I agre but my current setup doesn't have any wires in it which is what has confused me. My current setup is a wireless thermostat that came with the boiler.

 

[ianmcd]

The green and yellow wire in your pic going into the 230V RT plug is the switched live for your current set up, if you want the proper advice start a new post , this post has been hi-jacked so many times all the information is confusing, it is against site rules to hi-jack posts, start a fresh one and show pics of your current set up and controls and which hive you are trying to fit

 

[gozain]

If it is like the diagram I have posted, then wire the Hive N & L to the boilers N & L and Hive terminals 1 & 3 would go to the boiler terminals marked 24V DC room thermostat (RT 24) after the ubiquitous link is removed.

If you are in any doubt post a photo of your boiler's wiring terminals later and someone will be able to confirm.

Sorry for kidnapping thread but I have the same Boiler and want to confirm configuration. I am trying to install a Drayton Wiser and as far as I can tell the connections are the same as Hive.

I had a Honeywell RT T6360B installed and I thought it would be simple to replace but I cant get the Drayton Wiser to work.

Can you let me know if I need to run additional cables from the boiler?

As I stand, I removed the L brown cable from the T6360B and connected it to the Drayton L terminal. I also put a jumper from L to 1 on the Drayton as the manual said it needs a link to power terminal 1. IS THIS TRUE AND CORRECT??

Took the N blue cable from Honeywell and connected it to N on Drayton. Earths to the earth on Drayton. But nothing on 2,3, or 4 terminals.

From stem's reply here it seems i need to run some cable to the 24v RT inputs of boiler and remove the jumper from Burner OFF?? Can anyone please confirm?? All connections photos below.

T6360B Configuration

Honywell RT

• gozain
• 25 Oct 2019

Ecotec Pro Wiring into T6360B

Boiler Mains

• gozain
• 25 Oct 2019

Boiler RT section

• gozain
• 25 Oct 2019

Drayton wiser manual.

Drayton Wiser Manual 2

• gozain
• 25 Oct 2019

Drayton Wiser Manual 1

• gozain
• 25 Oct 2019

 

[stem]

The blue cable connected to terminal 3 of your Honeywell is not a neutral it is the switched live. The original installer should have put a brown sleeve on it. [as well as a sleeve on the earth]

There isn't a neutral presently connected to your Honeywell, if there was it would be connected to terminal 2. But as you can see in your photo the terminal is vacant.

 

[gozain]

Hi Stem, thank you so much for your reply.

So that means that I should disconnect the blue cable from Boiler RT and connect into Boiler N and then run an additional cable from Boiler RT to Drayton T3. Correct?

Or do I need to use two cables on the RT 24V in boiler?

Am I correct doing a link between L and T1 on the wall plate?

Eco Tec Pro289

• gozain
• 25 Oct 2019

Drayton Wiser Manual 1

• gozain
• 25 Oct 2019

 

[stem]

I assume that the blue wire in Boiler RT 230V is the blue from the existing thermostat. If so, that wire will go to Wiser terminal (3) 'ON' - Add some brown sleeving on the ends to identify that it is being used as a live.

I assume that the longer brown wire in Boiler L is the one that goes to the existing thermostat. If so, that wire will go to Wiser terminal (L)

Then you need to run a neutral from the Boiler N to the Wiser terminal (N)

As you have figured, you need a link between Wiser (L) and (1) COM

If you have had to open up a room sealed part of the boiler to access the wiring terminals (with some boilers you do, with some you don't) this should only have been done by an RGI who can carry out the necessary checks to make sure that it is properly / safely sealed up again afterwards.