Valliant ecotec 837-losing pressure often-topping up almost daily now

[John D v2.0]

ah i just had an idea. i can tap the pipe and follow the sound. i think that's the only way i could fine it.

That's a genius idea, I don't know about anyone else but you taught me something new there!

 

[funtins]

If you're lucky, it'll be dirt under the seat of the PRV. Look at this

I can’t find this part

 

[funtins]

That's a genius idea, I don't know about anyone else but you taught me something new there!

Haha no worries mate

 

[TicTac]

I can’t find this part[/QUOTE

Well if you can't find the end of the pipe, then you wouldn't be expected to find the PRV itself, but at least when the plumber tried to say you need a new boiler, you can look experienced, and tell him to check the PRV for dirt; and it'll be quicker to do that than go and get a new one.

 

[Only me]

HI. i cant see any obvious leak. There is also no wet patch.

Disconnect the prv pipe at the bottom of the boiler if you can't find where it terminates. If it's loosing pressure here you'll soon know as this pipe should be dry inside.

Disconnect it when the boilers off and cold.

 

[funtins]

Disconnect the prv pipe at the bottom of the boiler if you can't find where it terminates. If it's loosing pressure here you'll soon know as this pipe should be dry inside.

Disconnect it when the boilers off and cold.

Ah ok. Which one is the prv pipe

 

[funtins]

I FOUND THE LEAK!!!

water is leaking from where the arrow pointing. i tightened the nuts but it's still leaking.

what's the best course of action?

 

[John D v2.0]

That's a compression joint, if the leak is from the, best bet is drain the system, undo, inspect for damage, put some PTFE tape around the olive, back together and tighten.
Then refill

 

[TicTac]

Depend how competent you are, how quick you can work, and how many towels you've got.

You need some ptfe tape between the olive and the lockshield seat. If you release the pressure from the system, turn off the other end of the rad, and then undo the compression nut, you might be able to get the tape in under the seat before you lose too much water.

But if in doubt, follow John D V2s method, and remember to top up the inhibitor afterwards.

 

[funtins]

That's a compression joint, if the leak is from the, best bet is drain the system, undo, inspect for damage, put some PTFE tape around the olive, back together and tighten.
Then refill

i think i can do this other than the bit about draining the system. i just watched this video in order to understand how to drain the system...

...and I have no idea where this tap is...

is this the way to drain the system for my boiler?

 

[dilalio]

Not all systems have a drain cock at the lowest point(s) - they should, but don’t - lazy installer.

If not, you’ll have to drain a rad and then uncouple and rotate one of its valves and open it up into a connected hose to drain down.

Or you can fit a self tapping drain cock and then replace that with a proper one once you emptied the system.

 

[funtins]

Not all systems have a drain cock at the lowest point(s) - they should, but don’t - lazy installer.

If not, you’ll have to drain a rad and then uncouple and rotate one of its valves and open it up into a connected hose to drain down.

Or you can fit a self tapping drain cock and then replace that with a proper one once you emptied the system.

Ok. The last two paragraphs are kind of hard to understand.

Is there any reason I can’t just tape around the bits under where it’s leaking from? Or take apart as much as I can then tape it. Why do I need to drain the system?

 

[dilalio]

Ok. The last two paragraphs are kind of hard to understand.

Good. Then there’s still a use for us Plumbers then eh?

Is there any reason I can’t just tape around the bits under where it’s leaking from? Or take apart as much as I can then tape it. Why do I need to drain the system?

The reason is that it won’t work!

We’ve given you a fair amount of guidance... the rest you can do a bit of research, or call a plumber... one will cost you time and some materials; the other will cost you a hundred or so £’s

We’ve already donated some of our time (unpaid) to your cause. I now have to go out and sort a leaking radiator for some wages so that we can eat tonight

 

[funtins]

I actually don’t mind paying someone to deal with this but I don’t know anyone that I trust.

I only know a bunch of conmen

 

[dilalio]

I only know a bunch of conmen

I suppose a lot depends on where you live... if a small community means only a few trades and no competition, so they can rule the roost. There’s loads of Plumbers where I live and many who know each other - none of us are conmen, some who know how to earn a buck, but they put the effort in and deserve the rewards.

To sort out your leaky valve should be £80-£100 “if” there are no other ‘obstacles’.

Draining down stops you and your home getting wet/covered in black shyte.

Clean all the deposits away from the connection using back of a Stanley knife/screwdriver/wire wool/abrasive strip... polish it up. Drain system however you need to and undo the nut.
Wrap ptfe around the back of the olive and retighten. Check all other rad valves whilst you have system drained and deal with any you find. Get some inhibitor into the system however you can and refill/pressurise.

All in an hours work.