I’ve had a peak below the side flashing, and it’s clear the wood on the damp side seems to have warped away leaving a gap to the side and at the end, which looks like the problem. Compared to the dry side which is flush with no gap.
I did try rescrewing with ptfe but seems fruitless given there’s a big old gap to the side.
Attaching pictures
Can any of you who have been very helpful so far advise any simple fixes? Even if they are a botch, just want to stop the rot (pardon the pun).
Considering filling the gap with silicone.. or waterproof tape to stem the flow. But a bit uneasy with both..
Hi Peter
Sorry for the delay! I wasn't referring to that cover flashing! I meant the piece that sits on the side of the frame and is screwed into the wooden frame. I tried uploading a picture but it keeps telling me to accept cookies which I consent to but it still won't let me send a picture....
Hi Peter
Sorry for the delay! I wasn't referring to that cover flashing! I meant the piece that sits on the side of the frame and is screwed into the wooden frame. I tried uploading a picture but it keeps telling me to accept cookies which I consent to but it still won't let me send a picture....
After looking at your pics again the last two pics show a gap between the timber and the aluminium profile which seem to be of different sizes! looking where the rot is I suspect the screw just above the rot.
Not sure if you've solved your issue but we've had similar in one of our kitchen P10's.
Chap today pointed out that the exterior sticky butyl seal between the glass and its covers (under the exterior casement flashings) has broken down, which leads to water ingress to the inside and that tell-tale sign of mould growth.
Ours had rotted so badly that there was no screw purchase to hold the covers on anymore and therefore squeeze the new butyl sealant strips against the glass. A bodge job later and it should suffice the winter, but the whole window will need replacing next spring/ summer.
No point just replacing the casement part as that would be more expensive. Given any new won't match the twin next to it then Velux is quids in as we'll need to get both done. Ker-ching!
Another issue was pointed out that every 1 -2 years all the main frame flashing screws need checking and tightening as they come loose with the general expansion and contraction of the window. Most people obviously don't do it, as they aren't informed by their builders to do so........
Trouble is that those screws give the water an entry point, this time causing the whole bottom of the frame to rot. That has happened up in our loft conversion bathroom window.....not a great day
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