Veritas 8 - Repair, Replace or Upgrade

Hi Adrian, good to hear from you again.

If cash wasn't so tight these days, I would tend to agree with Europlex. To my knowledge he is an experienced engineer with about forty years in the trade under his belt. And this is where the problem arises. After we have worked so long in this field we tend to think that all installers have the same credibility as ourselves, I often have to remind myself, even when reading posts on forums, that there are good installers out there with first class records and then there are the 'cowboys'. Very often, in fact 'all of the time', the only people who can recognise a 'cowboy' at a hundred yards are the likes of Europlex. It is very difficult for the average person to do so. Were you to go along this route then you would need to be completely assured that the people you use are not 'here today and gone tomorrow'. It is probable that you could find a first class act who does not charge the earth, they outnumber the cowboys, but do your homework before deciding. I am not suggesting that Europlex is in any way wrong, he has a valid point and I'm sure he's thought about it before making the suggestion. It is certainly something which you should think about. Here's why, and I guess it's the same reasoning as that of Europlex.

At some point you will need to provide the existing warning device with the correct wiring procedure, and it differs from sounder to sounder. Having uncovered the right way to do this, you will almost certainly need to 'get up the ladder' and remove the bellbox cover (if you don't know for certain the exact make and model of the warning device ). Even if you can get away without doing that, it makes sense to check the warning device anyway while you are in the process of changing the panel.

You are correct as far as hold off current is concerned and there is a way of keeping the outside sounder quiet while you change the panel, but that said, you must have the correct connections when the new panel is installed. We'll leave that for now, and look at the detection devices:-

I could be totally wrong on this, so suggestions or 'knock downs' are welcome:- There are a few ways to 'tamper' devices; double pole, end of line and double end of line. If your detectors have been connected using either of the last two, then you would need to remove the 'resistors' from within the detectors. Each detector should be opened and checked for colour codes and even 'creepy crawlies' if holes in the mounting plates have not been blocked up by the initial installer.

You mention fuses, and you may need quite a few spares since blowing them is not uncommon when replacing a panel.

So there are quite a few good reasons why Europlex has made his suggestion.

You appear to be 'of the breed' who can change the panel with minimal problems, but there are questions which you may need to ask along the way. You will not receive answers on public forum where those answers could compromise the security of yourself or others, I have therefore left that for a later date when you can either pm or email those questions.

Should you decide to change the panel yourself, it is advisable that you leave the existing arrangement intact until you receive the new panel, become totally familiar with the installation instructions and bench test the panel.

Please keep in touch.
 
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Once again thank you chaindaisy and eurplex for the help so far.

I am "soak testing" the panel as you suggested. All wires labelled and disconnected. "Annoyingly" the alarm is working fine. I think I know why the fuse blew the second time... I put a wrong fuse in. 125mA is never enough to drive the panel. I have since found a 1.6A and put that in its place (the Power supply fuse on the board is also 1.6A). I am guessing I need to rewire the sensors one by one and see which one, if any, will blow the fuse. I still don't know why the fuse blew initially, and as I threw that first fuse away without checking its rating (I totally forgot) I may never know.

The battery in questions is made by Ultracell, 2.4Ah 12V. I will get myself another battery, as I will need one if I get a new panel anyway. Any suggestions on brand?

Money is tight which is why it's all DIY here. Recently changed the motor of my Dyson myself. A lot simplier than alarm wiring I must admit, but I will have a go most of the time because I usually know when to give up. Usually...

I can get access to the sounder as by climbing out the bedroom window (standing on tiles), but that would be silly and better done with a proper ladder. I think if I get another panel it will have to be the Veritas Excel as it would simplify the siren wiring no end!

Off to reconnect the PIRs...

Adrian
 
Hi Adrian,

Well there's nothing like a soak test to tell us which direction we are going in. Good work.

You mentioned that you're off to disconnect the pir's and it seems like you are getting around rather well. If I could suggest that you do not disconnect them for the time being it may work out easier for you. But I'm probably too late on that one, have you blown a fuse while disconnecting ?

Personally, I would prefer to leave the panel 'linked' and try a new battery before doing anything else. Just put the battery in, connect it up, and let it charge for a few hours, although there's usually a fairly good charge in them when they are bought. When you are satisfied that no problems have arisen as a result of connecting the new battery, disconnect the mains for about one hour ... the external warning should not sound since the battery is powering the system. If however, the external warniing does sound under this test check the fuses again. By the way, when you buy a new battery add a few 1 amp fuses to the order.

We'll leave it at that for now until you get back to us.
 
Thanks again for your help chaindaisy.

I haven't got round to reconnecting the pirs yet. I'll order the battery tonight and do the PIRs "testing/connecting" tomorrow.

What do you mean by linked? Disconnected from sensors? At the moment I only have the keypad and internal buzzer connected. All is well for the last 6 hours, and counting.

Adrian
 
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Hi Adrian,

Sorry about that, it's just a bit of trade slang. If you look at an earlier post it simply means removing a zone pair of wires from their terminals in the control panel and placing a wire link in order to join the now empty zone terminal pair together.

Take care,
 
[quote="twodoctors";p="2603939"............ I am "soak testing" the panel as you suggested. All wires labelled and disconnected. "Annoyingly" the alarm is working fine. I think I know why the fuse blew the second time... I put a wrong fuse in. 125mA is never enough to drive the panel. I have since found a 1.6A and put that in its place (the Power supply fuse on the board is also 1.6A). I am guessing I need to rewire the sensors one by one and see which one, if any, will blow the fuse. I still don't know why the fuse blew initially, and as I threw that first fuse away without checking its rating (I totally forgot) I may never know.[/quote]
The correct size fuse for the job is NOT necessarily the same as one picked at random from the rest.

The correct size is the one the manufacturer fits, tolerances have have been .... well you know the rest.

The wrong size fuse can allow irreparable damage. Only use the correct size.
 
Looking good so far Adrian. Should be up and running by the weekend. As Bernard and Europlex point out, the manufacturer rated fuses should be used, but let's see how you get on first. From my own experience, and not contradicting good advice in any shape or form, we always have a bag full of 1 amp and 500ma fuses in the vans .... if they blow, there's a problem ... if they don't and the panel works fine then 'okey dokey' just finish off with the recommended fuses. I've used a 1 amp instead of a slow blow in a cd player, meant to change it for the correct size but that was about two years ago, never got round to it and the unit is still working.. might sort it ... might not.

If you're around the forum regularly, never ignore Bernard's advice, he's 'pie hot' on electronics ... same goes for Europlex.

Regarding the correct fuse size, I reckon it would be helpful if you had a copy of the installation manual for your system, the correct fuse sizes are in there, as well as anything else you need to know. If you want a copy, let me know and I'll send it by e.mail.

That said, we've always had 1 amps available and never had any bother using them, but stick with what the professionals have said above. Everything's a learning curve and they have inadvertently taught me quite a lot.
 
Thanks for the advice Europlex, Bernardgreen and chaindaisy. I have a downloaded copy of the manual and I can't seem to find the fuse rating for that particular fuse. There are 5 fuses on the PCB and the one for PSU is 1.5Amp, so I shouldn't really go wrong using the same. If anything it should blow earlier rather than later.

It seemed to be fine linked, and hopefully okay fully loaded too. Will report back soon. Thanks once again!

Adrian
 
This might help. Taken from the manual ! ;)

Fuse Description Rating
F1 Battery fuse F1A, 250V, 20mm
F2 Bell & Strobe fuse F1A, 250V, 20mm
F3 L/S & Detector Auxiliary fuse F500mA, 250V, 20mm
F4 RKP Auxiliary fuse F500mA, 250V, 20mm
F5 Power Supply Output fuse F1.6A, 250V, 20mm
 
Thanks Europlex. I've got the manual as well but the fuse in question is the one pre-transformer. I'm using 1.6A at the moment .

Adrian
 
Actually reading the manual carefully again it does say that the fuse should be 125mA, so I was right (lucky last time). Page 27 in you have the manual. I'll have to switch back to 125mA and retest...

Adrian
 
Hi Adrian,

That fuse seems very low for pre transformer. Could you check that you haven't missed a dot, possibly 1.25 ? I am also not keen on the manufacturer suggestion that the battery fuse should be as high as 1 amp, even though that's what may be 'in the book', would prefer a 500 mA. All ' put downs ' shall not be taken personally, it's Christmas.
 
No. Definitely 125mA. I'll stick with 1.6A I think as I agree it doesn't make sense to have the pre transformer fuse lower than the highest rated fuse on the PCB.

Adrian
 

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