Wall switch security timer installation

[JohnW2]

I'll post that pic next...

Is this the one you mean?

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• tom144000
• 29 Sep 2014
• 1

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Please advise, if you know how I should proceed.

By learning how lighting circuits work, how switches are wired etc. By acquiring a genuine understanding of what's going on, and what you are doing.

NOT by just following instructions to 'put-this-wire-in-that-hole' without actually knowing why - that's an incredibly foolish way to do electrical work, and anybody here who encourages you to do it ought to be ashamed at their irresponsible lack of care.

• http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=electrical+circuits+101
  
  
• http://kevinboone.net/electricity.html
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/domesticinstallations.html
  
  
• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting
  
  
• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:books
  
  
• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics
  
  

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Thank you Martin.
I've uploaded an image that I drawed with the coloured cables going into each terminal.
I've posted it into my album.
Sorry, I'm not familiar with how to transfer it from there to here.

It tells you in the instructions!

After step 1, step 2, step 3, step 4, step 5, step 6, step 7 and step 8 come step 9, step 10 and step 11.

You have to do all of them, not just the first 8.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You can put your pictures in your posts. Just follow the instructions…..

That is something which he seems either unwilling or unable to do.

 

[tom144000]

It looks like your three core and earth carries two strappers and a neutral.

In the switch you are replacing:
- Put the cores from the N LOOP into a terminal block, not to your switch.
- Put the two browns from the COM into the LIVE on the timer switch.
- Put the brown from the L1 into the L1(2way) on the timer switch.
- Put the black from the L2 into the LOAD on the timer switch.

And then......

In the other switch your retaining:
- Move the black from the L1 into the COM with the other cable.
- If you find this switch operates upside down, either turn it around or move the brown from L2 to L1.

OK, Martin, first I'd like to apologise for the grey appearing as black to me in the light. I'll try to update my picture below for clarification.

Second, I tried your suggestion, but the light is not coming on. There is definitely power getting to the new switch though, because the times are flashing. The circuit has not tripped either.

I'll attempt to post pictures here again (of what I have done followed by a better illustration of what cables are going where).

Untitled

• tom144000
• 30 Sep 2014
• 1

Untitled

• tom144000
• 30 Sep 2014
• 1

Untitled

• tom144000
• 30 Sep 2014
• 1

(apologies to those who seem to be offended by me asking for help and not posting my own pictures, but praise to Martin and John who seem to have a helpful nature).

 

[Lectrician]

Looks OK to me.

Are the neutrals in a terminal block together at the timer switch?
Does your pendent have a lamp in it, and is it more than 40watt if a standard lamp, or 17watt if it's an energy saver?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

(apologies to those who seem to be offended by me asking for help and not posting my own pictures, but praise to Martin and John who seem to have a helpful nature).

I guess it depends on whether you think you have truly been helped to learn and grow and develop by people doing something for you which you should have been able to do for yourself.

And ditto with the electrical work - it seems to me that you are still trying different combinations of connections, hoping to hit on the right one, with no actual understanding of how what you have decided to fiddle with works.

 

[tom144000]

Looks OK to me.

Are the neutrals in a terminal block together at the timer switch?
Does your pendent have a lamp in it, and is it more than 40watt if a standard lamp, or 17watt if it's an energy saver?

1. Yes, the neutrals are in a together.
2. The bulb was a 20W energy saver, but as it was a cheapy one, I've just replaced it with a 100W, but now it remains on (even after switching both switches).

Any ideas?

 

[JohnW2]

2. The bulb was a 20W energy saver, but as it was a cheapy one, I've just replaced it with a 100W, but now it remains on (even after switching both switches).

Just to be clear - are you saying that the 20W energy saving lamp would not come on at all (regardless of what you did with switches) but that when you changed it to a 100W lamp it will not go off (regardless of what you do to the swiches)?

Kind Regards, John

 

[tom144000]

2. The bulb was a 20W energy saver, but as it was a cheapy one, I've just replaced it with a 100W, but now it remains on (even after switching both switches).

Just to be clear - are you saying that the 20W energy saving lamp would not come on at all (regardless of what you did with switches) but that when you changed it to a 100W lamp it will not go off (regardless of what you do to the swiches)?

Kind Regards, John

Yes, you are correct 😀

 

[Lectrician]

Check your programming first then, as wiring looks ok. Will look closer when I am st s PC.

BAS. He is not trying random combinations, he has tried one instructed way.

 

[JohnW2]

Yes, you are correct

Thanks for confirming. This is becoming very odd. As Lectrician has just said, it sounds as if you ought to check the settings/programming.

Kind Regards, John

 

[tom144000]

Check your programming first then, as wiring looks ok. Will look closer when I am st s PC.

BAS. He is not trying random combinations, he has tried one instructed way.

I truly appreciate your input - I have switched it to manual, and now it's working.

I think that I was not giving the timer enough time to do initial charge of internal battery (I just read that it should be 45-60 mins) before it becomes programmable.

You are a star and you've helped yet another idiot like me, who doesn't have the time to get a diploma before I can replace my switch


I'm most grateful for your professional courtesy and your expertise to resolve this. Thank you.

Job well done.

 

[tom144000]

Yes, you are correct

Thanks for confirming. This is becoming very odd. As Lectrician has just said, it sounds as if you ought to check the settings/programming.

Kind Regards, John

Thank you John too for your input and in helping me post the photos, especially as that kind of help seems to be frowned upon by some.

Hope you and Lectrician have a great night.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

...doesn't have the time to get a diploma before I can replace my switch

Then get an electrician - your attitude to learning and understanding, and underpinning your practical work with sufficient genuine competence is appalling.