If you are confident doing it like that that's fine, I didn't want to mention doing it that way as it is less safe.I was thinking of splitting the unit apart and sticking the unit back in place by the pins so I can get my probe down the back of it while it's still on.
This would be correct only if the clyinder had reached temperature or the clyinder stat was turned down. This appears to be the case as the orange has 0V (as is not being back fed via the cylinder stat.)HW only, White=0v, Grey=240v, Orange=0v
Is this correct? Unless you had the room thermostat turned down, the white should have 240V as well. (which would in turn then make the orange 240V) If grey has power the clyinder stat must be turned down, or the clyinder has reached temperature (which as above appears to be the case).HW&CH, White=0v, Grey=240v, Orange=0v
That would be expected as you are not getting the HW off signal from the programmer.CH only, White=240v, Grey=73v, Orange=42v
If it was working it should be 240V on all of those wires.
I think you mean terminal 1 of the programmer not putting out the required 240V, and Yes.Am I right in thinking that the reason there is only 73v on the grey during CH only is due to (apart from terminal 4 on the programmer not outputting the required 240v) the rectifying diode/resistor configuration.
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