I think mine is a TMV3 from Caleffi, it came with the solar kit that I self installed, but its hidden from view so can't access it easily to have a look.
Your unvented cylinder is a 22 year old vetern so maybe best left alone at 65C?.
OP,
After reading your posts, & seeing your pics then FWIW: why not call a plumber, someone who is familiar with Indirect's, or a similar knowledgeable sparky?
I had a similar issue with a TESLA immersion & thermostat which I documented on here. To cut a long story short, the final answer turned out to be the factory crimped link wire between the thermostat & the element. The crimp (hidden under a sleeve), was poor resulting in heating of the short link wire. This heat being conducted back into the thermostat & causing false trips of the over temperature cutout. Replacing this link wire with one i fabricated myself solved my problem.
I suggest the OP removes this link wire & takes a careful look at it
Resolved: the thermostat was clicking when the temperature was rising (on) but not when falling (off). This was intermittent. New rod has a distinct click both directions, old rod when working had a weak click on the falling direction .
Thanks to those who helped problem solve. I believe as a DIYer i may have solved it
Resolved: the thermostat was clicking when the temperature was rising (on) but not when falling (off). This was intermittent. New rod has a distinct click both directions, old rod when working had a weak click on the falling direction .
Thanks to those who helped problem solve. I believe as a DIYer i may have solved it
Okay took the flylead/link wire off and the prong side had charring on the wire poking out. I have replaced with a new 2.5mm crimped ring end wire. Using a heat resistance 2.5mm that is identical to the new feed cable that I fitted last time around.
Time will now tell.
Note of interest was that the KW went from 2.9 Kw to 3Kw but that could be anything to do with slight change in voltage in the incoming mains etc
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