Weird Hob and Oven Wiring

[shazbat66]

Our oven, an electric fan, is wired into a normal plug socket on a 13 amp plug. Our hob is wired into the fuse box on a 32amp breaker. at Christmas the tripped twice - we were using all the rings at once.

Since the over is wired to the supply socket that seemed to be for the hob and the hob is hardwired into the wall to the supply designed for the oven, does this sound OK?

 

[amfisted]

No expert me, and no doubt real experts will be along to give you an authoritative answer.

However, as far as I know an electric cooker should have its own circuit independent of any other part of the house installation, so neither oven nor hob should be plugged into the ring main.

 

[diyer56]

It depends on the oven - some are supplied by the manufacturer with a 13A plug and can be plugged in. What make/model is the oven?

 

[JohnD]

do you mean the hob is on its own dedicated circuit? Not connected (incorrectly) to a socket circuit, or one that is also used for something else, such as a shower?

And you mean that the 32A hob breaker tripped? And nothing lost its power apart from the hob?

That is most irregular. A hob doesn't usually trip the breaker, and 32A should be plenty.

An electric hob never plugs into an ordinary socket (a gas hob can, because it uses very little electricity, just enough for the ignition spark).

An electric oven can be supplied from a 13Amp UK plug, provided it is a single oven (no secondary oven or separate grill compartment) and was designed for the UK market with a plug. Some continental, or catering, ovens may be intended for a 20A supply. Double ovens can't be plugged in.

It's not clear from your post if the oven is connected to the same circuit as the hob, or is on your general socket circuit.

However...

An electric hob ring takes maximum load when you first turn it on from cold. After it has reached your chosen temperature, it then clicks off and on, so it's unlikely that all 4 rings would take maximum power at the same time. Unless you turned them all full on, from cold, together. Is that when it tripped?

 

[jj4091]

Do you have one of these https://www.switch-lighting.co.uk/c...MInO_M_c6s2AIV7pztCh1PHQdgEAQYAiABEgJ0_PD_BwE on the wall with the oven plugged into the socket & the hob connected to the cooker switch? If so it should be connected to a higher rated breaker than 32A if the cable is the correct size. Sounds like you need to have it checked out.

 

[nitro23456]

How so?

I have a dedicated 32amp radial circuit to one of those 45a switches above the kitchen worktop and the 'cooker' switch serves a further double 45a connection unit under the worktop with an electric oven and induction hob connected.

Nothing wrong with that.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

That is most irregular. A hob doesn't usually trip the breaker, and 32A should be plenty.

shaz - what is it that tripped - a 32A MCB or a 32A RCBO?

And what breakers are either side of it?

 

[Taylortwocities]

An electric hob never plugs into an ordinary socket

I just installed a Neff 4-ring induction hob. It comes with a 13A plug!

 

[JohnD]

one of us must be wrong....

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes, you are.
Read, and weep.
http://www.euronics.co.uk/cooking/hobs/neff-148t36fb41x0g/3515

 

[shazbat66]

thanks guys. So the electric halogen hob is wired into the wall like a cooker would usually be. So, when I switch off the switch that says cooker, it turns of the hob. This then links to a 32A fuse in the fuse board. The fuse board went when all rings were in use. The oven is plugged into a socket. Was done by electrician who installed it.

Other related posts have mentioned something called a diversity approach. Does this relate?

 

[Taylortwocities]

The fuse board went

Yes but, ESSENTIAL you tell us exactly what you mean by that.

Went down the pub? Of course not.

Something in the fuseboard blew, or tripped, perhaps. What EXACTLY was it? Send a photo if you aren't sure.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

shaz - what is it that tripped - a 32A MCB or a 32A RCBO?

And what breakers are either side of it?

 

[SimonH2]

I just installed a Neff 4-ring induction hob. It comes with a 13A plug!

Induction hobs have the advantage of fine electronic control over the power drawn. So (based on the small sample size I've had any dealings with) they can be programmed for the capacity of the supply and they'll work within that limit - one of the commissioning steps is to set the supply capacity. So if it's on a 13A plug and you put everything on high - then all the "rings" will actually operate at reduced power until one or more gets turned down which would allow more power to the others.
In theory it would be possible to do this with other electric hob types, but I doubt there's all that much call for it and manufacturers won't see the commercial gain to be had by adding a load of electrics that most people won't be using.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

and manufacturers won't see the commercial gain to be had by adding a load of electrics that most people won't be using.

And which will provide yet another opportunity for cheese-paring to make the whole thing unreliable.