What amp circuit required for 2 ovens and a hob

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The OP has stated that there is no socket on the cooker switch therefore with 14.95kW of appliances there is still 5kW "to play with" for the usual diversity arrangement. Is this not enough to accommodate an induction hob even if it were different than a conventional hob?

Incidentally 14.95kW after diversity is 25.7A - not 29A as stated above.
Unless I'm missing something new in later editions of the regs or other guidance that I hold:
14950/230 = 65A

10+(55*0.3) = 10+(16.5) = 26.5
Any confirmation?
Do you mean other than first hand experience?
 
Unless I'm missing something new in later editions of the regs or other guidance that I hold:
14950/230 = 65A

10+(55*0.3) = 10+(16.5) = 26.5
Use 240 as the manufacturer will have done - even less at 230V.

Do you mean other than first hand experience?
I mean the confirmation I asked for in the post to which you responded.
 
However I was taught it applies to individual appliances

3800/230 = 16.52A 10+(6.52*0.3) = 11.95A

7350/230 = 31.96A 10+(21.96*0.3) = 16.59A

16.59+11.95+11.95 = 40.5A
 
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Then you were taught incorrectly.

You are still using 230V on Wattages that will have been given for 240V.
 
My gut feeling would be to assess installation method of existing cable, if 6mm there is posisbly a good chance it could go on a 40A breaker, and thebn put a couple of 16A and one 32A breaker in an enclosure in one of the units near the ovens and if you are luckly with positioiung then the flexes to the appliances can come straight into it through stuffing glands with no messing around (Assume there is an isolator on the incomming supply - check thats suitably rated). If the supply had to remain at 32A then 95% you'd get away with it, but if you don't, it'll probably be at christmas or other inconvieninet time. Check the RCD as well, if its type AC then it really needs upgrading to A if introducing an induction hob.
Ah. The old gut feeling and Christmas reasoning.

Is there anything official to confirm your gut? If not, then ...
Not a silly one as it goes.
Any confirmation?
Do you mean other than first hand experience?
I mean the confirmation I asked for in the post to which you responded.
What have I missed?
 
Then you were taught incorrectly.

You are still using 230V on Wattages that will have been given for 240V.
Oh I know all that and having been criticised within this forum for applying such calculations.

I have on a number of occasions worked with equipment with ratings plates calculated at 230V or even 220V.

Therefore I now revert to our standard voltage calculations and avoid making assumptions until I know the facts.

Without knowing the models being proposed and therefore the actual power ratings I have nothing else to go on.
 
Oh FFS.
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Oh I know all that and having been criticised within this forum for applying such calculations.

I have on a number of occasions worked with equipment with ratings plates calculated at 230V or even 220V.

Therefore I now revert to our standard voltage calculations and avoid making assumptions until I know the facts.

Without knowing the models being proposed and therefore the actual power ratings I have nothing else to go on.
Then don't bother replying, then.
 
FFS we can all shout and holler.
This whole exchange was based on a fairly throwaway comment, albeit with a fairly sensible intention and as I see it the criticism of that comment was this:
Ah. The old gut feeling and Christmas reasoning.

Is there anything official to confirm your gut? If not, then ...
Having been in the situation of a cooking appliance tripping the MCB on overcurrent during heavy use (as it happens not at Christmas) I don't think the original comment is as silly as many would seem to think.

The only 'official' confirmation of any gut feeling is circuit design within the regs for any other appliance. IE any other appliance rated at 14.95KW would not have diversity applied to it. However we all know there is a special case for cooking appliances for which
95% you'd get away with it,
although I'd put the figure way higher at above 99% with a number of 9's after the decimal point.

Now as it happens; many many years ago I was in conversation with one of the members who helped establish the cooker diversity rules, he explained the figures used were solely to get a particular cooker (of which most at the time were very similar) compliant on 30A fuse. It had to be amended as most cooker switches included a 15A socket (Now 13A of course).
 
From what im rrading this seems to be a bone of contention amoungst electricians even though the regs seem to support it.

For i just want to be sure that if i turn on teo ovens at 200c and have two maybe 3 things on the go on the hob at the same time it wont trip. This for me would be worst case "Xmas Day" scenario.

As it stands oir electrician is saying no possible which means we would have to move where we want the ovens on the island under the hob to another location in the kitchen which quite frankly looks naff.
 
Why don't you tell us what models of appliance you have in mind?

It would also be useful to see a pic of your consumer unit

And very very useful to know the size of your existing cable.

I previously had a range circuit with a 40A MCB.

Luckily there is no need to reposition your ovens, because electrical cables can run from one place to another.
 
Why don't you tell us what models of appliance you have in mind?

It would also be useful to see a pic of your consumer unit

And very very useful to know the size of your existing cable.

I previously had a range circuit with a 40A MCB.
2 x Neff B64CS71GOB
1 x AEG IAE84411FB
 
Your existing cooker circuit is all you need.
14950 ÷230 = 65
65-10 = 55 -70%= 16.5

16.5 + 10 = 26.5 amps.
 

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