what boiler system if low mains water pressure

No for two.

But needs concrete breaker.

Skip for spoil removed.

Soon reached the £1500 figure I expect.

Of course ideal DIY job for you to dig a hole say 600 x 600 wide at the end of your drive and by your house.

Then all that is needed is for someone to mole between them and connect to under pavement.

Then you refill and concrete over!

But this is potentially irrelevant until you have measured your mains supply.

Tony
 
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Ok, just had a boiler guy round earlier to test water pressure and flow.

The results are in....

....drum roll please....

....6 bar pressure and 24lpm water flow.

So looks like mains upgrade not required.
 
Oh dear!

That is the static pressure and the open pipe flow rate.

You are obviously happy with it.

But I would not be!

I told you yesterday what you needed!

Tony
 
Ok tony, quite a few exclamation marks there...

So what is the issue? I'm not a plumber and learning this all new. you said min 20lpm flow...tick. You said min 1bar pressure in the pipe...tick. You will have to explain further as a plumber came round last night with all the measuring gizmo's and said all ok. I've got another two coming next week so will see what they say as well but no reason to doubt what I'm being told.

When you've been doing something for a long time and know it like the back of your hand everything seems obvious but this isn't so to the layman. It's probably obvious that I've missed some key point or detail you were trying to convey so if you could add more colour it would be helpful, rather than just saying I've been told what I needed. Re-reading your responses I still don't know what I've missed. I may seem stupid to you but plumbing/boilers aren't my life...that's why I'm asking for help on this forum.
 
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You need to confirm the dynamic water pressure & flow rate Mike.
Disconnect your Cold washing machine hose or outside tap & connect one of these;
http://www.screwfix.com/p/monument-tools-mains-water-pressure-test-gauge/82412?kpid=82412&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&gclid=CjwKEAjw3Nq9BRCw8OD6s4eI5HASJABsfCIaRjAEL8NVED8y9OqDiDc0bmCO5PbxQQacJwYHGhqghhoCsvvw_wcB

Run another couple of taps & check the 'dynamic' pressure on the gauge.

Use a measuring jug & time how long it takes to draw a litre of water......eg: 1Ltr in 6 seconds = 10Ltr/1Minute.

Test would need to be done between 6-9am & again around Dinner/Tea time in the evening, if you live in a residential area.
HTH
 
Pullergas, thanks. The plumber that came round did attach ones of those pressure test gauges to the outside tap although he didn't run any other taps at the same time.

For water flow he used one of these cups

http://www.test-meter.co.uk/anton-f...hvrjaxwIIhekEZ3l5swTQHLd7Qjg0mcjPwaAmjf8P8HAQ

Tests were done at 6:45pm.

So basically when doing the pressure test next time just make sure it's "dynamic". If I get similar results to before then all good and no need for mains water upgrade?

Cheers
Mike
 
@MikeJEN the dynamic test is to show the pressure drop when two or more outlets are opened at the same time - think having a shower whilst someone elsewhere in the house flushes a toilet; fills a kettle or starts the washing machine/dishwasher!
 
Very simply, you need to measure the pressure at the same time as the flow.

Static pressure is pretty irrelevant.

Please read about dynamic flow in the FAQ on this site.

Tony
 
I bought a pressure gauge and attached it to the outside tap. Pressure read 5.5bar static at first then jumped up to 7bar after about 10/15 seconds. I turned on kitchen sink tap, downstairs toilet tap and flushed downstairs toilet...literally had zero affect on pressure...stayed stuck at 7bar. Does the pressure usually drop once other taps are run? I'm don't see why this would happen as if the pressure gauge is attached to the outside tap which is feed off the mains why would that get affected by another tap?
 
Tested it again...static pressure on outside tap 6bar...then turned on kitchen tap, downstairs bathroom tap, upstairs bathroom sink tap and bath tap...pressure dropped to 5bar. Can I now take it the pressure is ok? Will check tomorrow morning at peak time but hopefully it looks like pressure ok. Thoughts please?
 
I don't think so.

You may ( and should ) have a non return valve supplying your tap.

Pressure best read on washing machine supply valve.

Tony
 
Right....got the washing machine out to take some readings:

Static: just under 5.5bar
1 kitchen tap running: 3.25bar
1 kitchen tap & downstairs toilets tap: 2:75bar

Mains upgrade required or not?

Cheers, Mike
 
Last edited:
Tested it again...static pressure on outside tap 6bar...then turned on kitchen tap, downstairs bathroom tap, upstairs bathroom sink tap and bath tap...pressure dropped to 5bar. Can I now take it the pressure is ok? Will check tomorrow morning at peak time but hopefully it looks like pressure ok. Thoughts please?
All taps running @ same time?...
Bath tap is ideal when checking pressure/flow rate , washing machine valve is restrictive so I wouldn't be checking pressure/flow rate here.
 
Tested it again...static pressure on outside tap 6bar...then turned on kitchen tap, downstairs bathroom tap, upstairs bathroom sink tap and bath tap...pressure dropped to 5bar. Can I now take it the pressure is ok? Will check tomorrow morning at peak time but hopefully it looks like pressure ok. Thoughts please?
All taps running @ same time?...
Bath tap is ideal when checking pressure/flow rate , washing machine valve is restrictive so I wouldn't be checking pressure/flow rate here.

Yes, all were running at the same time although now have found pressure drops from 5.5bar to 3.25 bar with one tap running and then down to 2.75bar with 2 running. Readings taken from washing machine water pipe
 

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