What's wrong with my circular saw

[Deleted member 174758]

glad its sorted lol nicks pencil marks all part off the individuality

Just not on a laminate surface or edge...

 

[aveatry]

but I think if you insist on doing it that way, then make the scoring cut first. Not last,

Yes that is what I have just tried and it did not work, not enough downward pressure and too much scope for movement against the fence (blade bending ? ) resulted in a very bad score. also with the work top face down the blade is going the wrong direction for a goo cut. So yes it was indeed fraught with problems. It was an experiment.
I aslo tried first scoring with a knife brand new Stanly blade and that in itself caused its own chips before i even when near the saw (tried different methods and pressures - still chips

Now we know this is a rip cut, just why is it necessary to get a perfect cut?

Actually the scratch problem was the 1 and only rip cut and the rest are all cross cuts.

Are you sure that you aren't just trying to use the table saw just because you have it?

Well I tried gnawing through it but it left a load of teeth marks
The best result so far is from the circular saw ( after my initial not square cut in the picture). Its actually the same quality cut as i am getting from my 60 tooth blade on my table saw which still gives very tiny chips in places.
If I need to cut some in the future I will get myself a 2.4mm kerf 60 tooth for the circular saw

 

[big-all]

Just not on a laminate surface or edge...

yes forgot it was laminate rather than oak block

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Yes that is what I have just tried and it did not work, not enough downward pressure and too much scope for movement against the fence (blade bending ? )

With a long piece you really do need a full length outfeed table so that the workpiece is fully supported as it comes off the saw - a roller support won't do (alright for ripping solid timber down before it is planed 4 sides, but otherwise not that good). As to scope for movement against the fence - that sounds as though you aren't supporting the material well enough on the infeed side as well as not providing any pressure against the fence; the pressure applied as the piece goes across the saw must be diagonal, both forwards and towards the fence, simultaneously. This is a lot easier to achieve with a full size table saw where you ren't additionaly attempting to support the material (which is what I suspect you are attempting to do) than it is with a portable saw such as yours. I own a DW745 (the predecessor saw to yours) and frankly I wouldn't have attempted the cut on it unless I built a flat infeed and outfeed tables first - in point of fact before I had a portable table saw or guide rail saw I used to do these cuts from the underside of worktops using a Makita 190mm saw and a 72 tooth ATB (alternate top bevel) or TCG (triple chip grind) blade with little diffioculty. As discussed, the key is to have the correct blade and top bear in mind that in many cases the cut will subsequently be hidden, so a portable saw with a thick enough saw blade (2.2 to 2.5mm) and enough teeth (48t on a 165mm blade) will do the job

I aslo tried first scoring with a knife brand new Stanly blade and that in itself caused its own chips before i even when near the saw (tried different methods and pressures - still chips

Stanley knives are not up to the task, even if you use a laminate scoring blade in one. The horizontal grade laminate used on post-formed worktops is basically Tufnol plastic and very tough

The best result so far is from the circular saw ( after my initial not square cut in the picture). Its actually the same quality cut as i am getting from my 60 tooth blade on my table saw which still gives very tiny chips in places.

If I need to cut some in the future I will get myself a 2.4mm kerf 60 tooth for the circular saw

Which is pretty much where we started

 

[Deleted member 174758]

yes forgot it was laminate rather than oak block

Yerp, doesn't polish out as well - despite the assertions of the Pink Stuff spammer we had earlier this week!

 

[aveatry]

With a long piece you really do need a full length outfeed table so that the workpiece is fully supported as it comes off the saw - a roller support won't do

Yes I have a flat out feed and used it but only the table itself for infeed. It was only 500mm wide x the worktop depth 600mm

As to scope for movement against the fence - that sounds as though you aren't supporting the material well enough on the infeed side as well as not providing any pressure against the fence; the pressure applied as the piece goes across the saw must be diagonal, both forwards and towards the fence, simultaneously.

I was applying pressure but not enough,

This is a lot easier to achieve with a full size table saw where you ren't additionaly attempting to support the material (which is what I suspect you are attempting to do)

Correct no infeed support apart from me.
So next time I try and cut that stuff I will use a circular hand saw with a --------

2 tooth ATB (alternate top bevel) or TCG (triple chip grind) blade with little diffioculty. As discussed, the key is to have the correct blade and top bear in mind that in many cases the cut will subsequently be hidden, so a portable saw with a thick enough saw blade (2.2 to 2.5mm) and enough teeth (48t on a 165mm blade)

The circular saw method was the best cut in the end, even with a 24 tooth compared to my table saw with 60 tooth.

 

[aveatry]

JobAndKnock Thank you so much for your guidance it has helped me a lot ​

 

[aveatry]

Interesting thing about removing workpiece dust, I have a titan wet and dry vac that I use for cutting and general diy clean up and I somtimes attach the hose so it blows to clean equipment. When doing a cut with my 60 tooth on 18mm kitchen carcases I was wondering why the cut was suddenly so bad when yesterday it was great then I realised I had attached the saw table to the BLOW and not the suck ---so what a difference adequate dust removal makes

 

[aveatry]

Makita 190mm saw and a 72 tooth ATB (alternate top bevel) or TCG (triple chip grind) blade with little diffioculty. As discussed, the key is to have the correct blade and top bear in mind that in many cases the cut will subsequently be hidden, so a portable saw with a thick enough saw blade (2.2 to 2.5mm) and enough teeth (48t on a 165mm blade) will do the job

Another thing I have noticed while cutting kitchen unit chipboard and other coated chipboards is that some chip more than others.
I am going to buy a new blade for my hand held circular saw to replace my 24 Teath one, its unlikely that I will be cutting kitchen worktop anytime soon so if I get a 60 tooth blade would an alternate top bevel) or TCG (triple chip grind ) grind blade be the best cut for most surfaces.
And are they much more expensive than normal grind.
Currently looking at this https://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/product/tct-circular-blade-185mm-x-60t/
Also the saw is a 16mm bore - is it safe to used the 20mm to 16mm reduction rings.