Whats wrong with this system?

[DP]

Booooom!

Is above a joke or do you know something?

 

[Nige F]

So you`ve got a gravity circuit to the cylinder - hence the "awkward" programmer . If you took a cold feed from the F+E tank to the bottom of the oil boiler and a vent from the top of the boiler - individually and separately. You could do pretty much what you like with the rest of the system How much disruption to the rooms from two 22mm pipe run in some plastic casing. Plastic pipe, come to that apart from near to the boiler . That disruption vs. your planned disruption , and you know it`s safe and will @ least fill up.

 

[F1yTrap]

Hi Nige F - Yes, running a new Feed and Expansion to the boiler would be the ideal solution, and provide the best options but not very easy to do. At the moment the 22mm HW pipes and a 15mm CH pipe drop out of the bathroom and into the kitchen, then go across to the living room around the back of the coving then down the edge of the chimney breast until finally entering the boiler room, which is built onto the back of the chimney and is accessible from outside.

The pipes that come in then out of the kitchen are the most unsightly as its just 2 x 22mm elbow joints coming out of the roof then into the wall adding extra pipes using the same rout would make this really messy.

Just trying to make the best of a bad situation with what I have got, with minimal fuss.

Cheers, Craig

 

[F1yTrap]

This is the set up I'm going to go with. I'm going to mount the following in a board and attach it to the wall next to the HW cylinder. Think I have everything right here and have also added the lockshield valve to the configuration (thanks DP).

Does this look about right?

Untitled

• F1yTrap
• 2 Oct 2010
• 1

 

[DP]

Flytrap, you do not need a reducer on CH zone. Instal a tee to split between upper and lower floors.

If pipework is as per the diagram, there is a chance of airlock between the pump and diverter. Install the diverter with future repairs in mind. When it fails, you do not want to train as Houdini to repair it

 

[F1yTrap]

Thanks for getting back so soon DP, going to start this later. Rather than turning right out of the pump if I just go straight up vertically to the 3 port valve, will that remove the potential for air locks?

 

[DP]

Good idea.

 

[twgas]

put an air vent on the highest point, either manual or auto, any air locks can be easily bled off.

 

[ChrisR]

DIagram still not right, really. You might get some reverse circulation through some rads when the HW is on:

 

[F1yTrap]

Well spotted ChrisR, thanks very much. Back to the drawing board I guess.

Is there such thing as a 1 way valve maybe?

 

[F1yTrap]

Cant seem to find any information about mechanical 1 way valves.

How about fitting a motorised valve the upstairs 15mm pipe just before it tees into the HW return, and wire it to be open when the CH zone is calling for heat?

 

[mysteryman]

The correct sequence is:

Flow pipe from boiler
Close-coupled cold feed and vent [or combined feed and vent]
Pump
Diverter valve

You don't need a bypass as long as there is a rad or towel rail on lockshield valves.

It is best for the pump to pump upwards if poss, and make the diverter valve head accessible. Its Synchron motor can fail at any time [I am not saying it will - but it can].

 

[ChrisR]

FLytrap - you're making it complicated!

Running the pipe might be hard but what you want to achieve is this - dashed pipe removed:

 

[F1yTrap]

Thanks Chris. I realise that some of my suggestions seem to be over complicating things but its purely driven by the fact that its going to be really difficult to run a new pipe from the bathroom to the boiler room. But if that's the best solution then I will have to go with it.

 

[John67]

[You don't need a bypass as long as there is a rad or towel rail on lockshield valves.]

Don't know where this idea comes from but it is compulsory to fit auto bypass valve to oil boilers, and not that I am gr i would expect the same to apply to gas.[/quote]