Which filler should I use?

DIY'er is concerned with durability. Trade is concerned with profit - if it fails after a couple of months, that means more business.

Yeah... all of us trades people on this site only offer up our time to advise DIYers because we want to see them fail in their quests so that WE (an imaginary collective that only exists in your head) will come in to rip off the DIY user (read: potential customer).

I have no idea who "hurt" you previously... I agree that there are some pretty p!ss poor tradesmen, but do you really think that they are the ones that come here to offer advice?

The fact that you consider "hybrids" to be perfect in all cases shows that your "case studies" are very limited in scope.

In the meantime, I will continue to use MS polymers or caulks as appropriate.
 
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Not if you have experience and technique. EB25 used like silicone on interior glass here. Unlike silicone, this will never fail during its lifetime.

View attachment 297582

I agree that looks neat and tidy. What about the other rough images that you posted? Oh.... it was the "tape cabal" that tried to make you look bad?
 
Careful, the tape cabal are in cahoots with the mastic mafia.
 
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Interesting discussion regarding hybrids and caulk.

What is the best caulk I can buy? Or should I go for EB25 and use that everywhere instead?
 
Careful, the tape cabal are in cahoots with the mastic mafia.

Indeed.

As much as I value this site, as both a person that offers and receives advice, it can be hard work sometimes.

I learn much from sites like this. I may spend years performing task A to achieve goal B. If someone suggests using a different product or material, I am going to consider their advice. Why wouldn't I? If they are correct, I will gain from following their advice.
 
Interesting discussion regarding hybrids and caulk.

What is the best caulk I can buy? Or should I go for EB25 and use that everywhere instead?

Over the years, I have used several different brands of caulk. Some were pretty good, some were awful. Some started off a good and then became awful.

I look for a caulk that isn't too thin but not so thick that you cannot smooth it with a wet finger. The taste is also quite important- seriously, some leave a very unpleasant aftertaste in your mouth when you lick your finger again. I have come across some brands that, annoyingly, had micro bubbles in them that resulted in mini craters in the finish.

Personally, I do not apply caulk until the two surfaces have been primed. I don't want the water in the caulk to be sucked into the substrate before I can smooth the edges of it. Nevertheless, some brands leave rough edges unless you apply them over completely waterproof substrates.

Longevity and reaction to paints are ultimately the more important factors. Caulk, if applied correctly and under the correct circumstances, should not crack. I recently made the mistake of working for a builder that likes to cut corners. He places his regular decorator under unrealistic time frames. The guy would caulk skirtings, paint emulsion over them within the hour and then an hour later, cut in with the waterbased eggshell. Naturally, the paint over the caulk cracked after a couple of days.

Over the three weeks that I worked there, there were proper cracks in the caulk, but that was the result of the heating being finally installed, causing the skirtings to contract.

For a long time I used Dow Corning Painter's Mate. Then they changed the formulation and I found that emulsions would crack when applied over it. I eventually started using Everbuild 125. It was every bit as good as the older version of Painter's Mate but (at the time) up to 3 times cheaper at Toolstation.

At a guess, 125 has been my go to for about 10 years. Unfortunately, Toolstation no longer sell it, they now sell a different caulk from the same manufacturer which I really dislike. The edges ripple and emulsion always cracks over it.

My only gripe with the 125 is that it now oozes out of the gun slightly when I release the trigger on the Cox no flow gun. In the old days the small tubes would discharge about 3mm, now the discharge is about 10mm. The larger tubes however will release up to 10cm, even if you remove the tube from the gun. Fortunately, I do not like the thicker (read: rigid) nozzles on larger capacity tubes and accordingly stick with the smaller ones.

As with caulks, not all emulsions are created equal. I tend to use Dulux Trade emulsion. I am confident that if I use 125 and paint over it the following day, the Dulux Trade emulsion will not crack. If I use a different brand of paint that I know will crack, I first apply a coat of shellac paint. It prevents the cracking and can be overcoated with emulsion in less than than an hour.
 
Or should I go for EB25 and use that everywhere instead?
Hybrids are more difficult to work with and needs experience and technique. If you master it, it can do amazing things and achieve results that the trade cannot match. This is why you hear from the trade they rather not use it. EB25 is cheaper but not the cheapest. I would suggest getting the cheapest that work. Then you can use it anywhere. One special consideration is that you should go for something approved for food preparation area. Then you really can use it everywhere. Otherwise, there will be something at the back of your mind nagging at you if it's really OK?

It may not be possible/economical to use just one particular product. The ones specifically designed for exterior use are more robust and are better hybrids than hybrid, also cheaper. The exterior types are not for sanitary/kitchen use but are probably better at withstanding against mould. The label will say the product kills fish.
 
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Interesting discussion regarding hybrids and caulk.

What is the best caulk I can buy? Or should I go for EB25 and use that everywhere instead?

Oh, I forgot to add that if using EB25 for movement joints, the gap has to be in excess of 5mm. I would hope that new skirting/etc would not have such a large gap in the first place.

EB25 is a great product, but, in my opinion, should be used where caulks are not appropriate rather than being your go to product.

Additionally, be advised that you need to prime MS polymers with waterbased paints. I once made the mistake of painting oil based eggshell over MS polymers that I had applied the previous year, the OB paint will stay tacky for months.
 
Hybrids are more difficult to work with and needs experience and technique. If you master it, it can do amazing things and achieve results that the trade cannot match. This is why you hear from the trade they rather not use it. EB25 is cheaper but not the cheapest. I would suggest getting the cheapest that work. Then you can use it anywhere. One special consideration is that you should go for something approved for food preparation area. Then you really can use it everywhere. Otherwise, there will be something at the back of your mind nagging at you if its really OK?

It may not be possible/economical to use just one particular product. The ones specifically designed for exterior use are more robust and are better hybrids than hybrid, also cheaper. The exterior types are not for sanitary/kitchen use but are probably better at withstanding against mould. The label will say the product kills fish.

You really are out of your depth...

I use up to 12 tubes of CT1 (ms polymer aka hybrid) per year. It is certified as "food safe" and "exterior use". Oh, and it is 25%-30% more expensive than EB25. Exterior use products simply need to be able to absorb UV radiation- in lay terms, that means the molecules will vibrate accordingly without breaking down. It does not mean that they contain biocides/etc that will poison your food.

You really are coming across as a legend in your own lunchtime.
 
They are all for exterior use. But the dedicated exterior type such as the hybriflex 480 is denser, whiter, and better (depending on application). The perfect hybrid is cheap, dense, and approved for the kitchen. CT1 does not meet this metric. In any case, I am skeptical of the claims on CT1 - doesn't mean I am right. If CT1 is an american company or has any association with america, then my skepticism is more than likely justified. American products have too much of the "mouthing" component and incompatible with the practical part of me. Unless I am extremely desperate, or someone gives me some for free, I don't see an occasion I will be trying CT1 and verifying its performance.

Here is the analysis:

EB25: cheaper, for kitchen
Hybriflex 480: cheaper, dense
CT1: for kitchen
 
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They are all for exterior use. But the dedicated exterior type such as the hybriflex 480 is denser, whiter, and better (depending on application). The perfect hybrid is cheap, dense, and approved for the kitchen. CT1 does not meet this metric. In any case, I am skeptical of the claims on CT1 - doesn't mean I am right. If CT1 is an american company or has any association with america, then my skepticism is more than likely justified. American products have too much of the "mouthing" component and incompatible with the practical part of me. Unless I am extremely desperate, or someone gives me some for free, I don't see an occasion I will be trying CT1 and verifying its performance.

Here is the analysis:

EB25: cheaper, for kitchen
Hybriflex 480: cheaper, dense
CT1: for kitchen

Jesus wept.

It would have taken you seconds to discover that CT1 is based in Northern Ireland (still part of the UK) and accordingly subject to the the ASA (Advertising Standards Authority) regulations.

If you have grounds to disbelieve the claims made by them about a product that you have never used, feel free to complain to the ASA. When you tell them that you have never used the product, I hope they bin your complaint.

You are correct that some MS polymers are more dense than others. In and of itself, it does not make those products superior. I use the Timbabuild ms polymer for glazing new panes of glass. The stuff is so thick that I had to purchase a higher ratio/thrust gun for twenty (plus) quid just to dispense it. I would not use that particular product for anything else than a putty substitute.
 

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