Wired alarm for 2 doors - minimum cost (DIY)?

Thanks both for the info - I was originally thinking wired but the Yale wireless kit does look good and is a good price. Like the fact there's 2 bellboxes, but it it's lacking door contacts, unless I'm mistaken. Not sure about the wire vs wireless debate, some are saying take it with a pinch of sale - the pro's don't like it as the DIYers are hitting them in the pocket...but at the same time I'm not averse to running a few cables.

Was the 9448 the Scantronic? Just reading up and it seems they don't like spikes in mains (need to fit resistors) and also an external dialler which is a bit of a faf).
 
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It's nothing to do with trade protection. We are advising you a system you can install your self so it makes no odds to us if you choose wired or wireless.

You can get door contacts, but they have to big enough to house the batteries and a radio transmitter, so aren't the most discreet of devices.

I will still always recommend a wired system where ever it's posible to do.
They really are fit and forget, with smaller contacts, no batteries to worry about changing in each detector, greater choice of detectors and flexibility of programming options.

Personally I'd recommend the texecom veritas panel. They are brilliant reliable panels. I've fitted hundreds and they just never seem to go wrong. They are not mega money to buy, and they are a really easy panel to programme. They come with a good comprehensive guide if you've never done one before.
 
The Yale HSA6400 has two door contacts in the kit, and two PIRs. One of the bellboxes contains a siren and LEDs, the other is a dummy which you put on the back or side of the house to warn off intruders. You can add one or more extra sirens if you buy them, or up to 20 sensors if you have a large home, or outbuildings. Wireless is quite handy for sheds.

You normally use at least one of the door contacts as an Entry signal to start the countdown, and if you wish, you can set them to make the panel chime (bleep) when the door is opened, even when the alarm is unset, to alert you to people coming in, or if you have small children getting out.
 
RF - that wasn't directed at anyone here, was just what someone else mentioned on another forum. I realise no-one has any reason for bias, so the wireless must've come along way for the pro's to consider recommending them!

Thanks for further info John...hmm, it's a tricky one. Wired is preferred but it seems like the wireless will be a helluva lot easier to install and does the job (and ia possibly cheaper), all I've got to worry about is changing a few batteries once a year.
 
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Just reading up and it seems they don't like spikes in mains (need to fit resistors)
If you are refering to the resistors fitted in sensors then these resistor have nothing to do with mains spikes. They are part of the alarm system's anti defeat system.

The resistor determines how much currrent flows through the sensor's contact. The panel monitors this current and if it changes beyond certain limits then the alarm is sounded. With this system even if an intruder has managed to get access to the cables putting a sensor bypass link in the cable will be seen as contact bypass and trigger the alarm.

Tamper cicuits can also be protected the same way.
 
Hello Dagoof,

I have gone back a few posts in a brief attempt to uncover what might be better for you as far as the security system is concerned. You mention the difficulty in reaching windows by a potential intruder. I am not saying that no one would ever attempt to reach them, but they appear of good quality and some of the more determined thieves would probably give your home a miss on this account:-

Freidland asked researchers to carry out a study of released habitual burglars and the results of the survey, I'm not going into all of it, were that 80% of burglars would not attempt to enter a property which had any signs of a security system, whether professionally installed or otherwise. They would simply move on. It's worth noting this when deciding on your choice of system which need not cost the earth if cash is tight.

A trade installer of the old school still relies heavily on a hardwired system, I am one of them. Although wireless has come on leaps and bounds both in the trade and diy worlds, this was not always the case. Some years ago it may be fair to say that wireless systems were not near as reliable as they are today, hence our leaning towards 'hard wire'. I should imagine that we all do our fair share of installing trade wireless these days, but we are not 'knocking' the diy market (I mentioned that the Yale Premium looked a good deal in a earlier post).

The other thing worth noting is a quote from one of my old friends. He had sold some trade equipment to a chap who wanted to 'have a go' himself. When asked why he had done this, his reply was "... if someone is intent on installing their own system there is nothing I can do about it and there is nothing I want to do about it...". The fact that Yale systems are selling like 'hot cakes' doesn't have any effect on trade installers.

Finally, well, for this post anyway. I shouldn't be overbothered about comments regarding one particular brand of control panel being susceptible to 'spikes'. Virtually every hard wired system may become so at some time or another. By the way, Scantronic gear, both wired and wireless is amongst my most favoured of manufacturers.

Well, you've read the posts, all interesting with valuable comments (with the exception of one 'spoiler' whom the Moderators sorted 'a bit rapid'). I guess it's up to you now, to have a think about it and make your own decision based on some very professional posts indeed.

Let us know how you get on.

Best Wishes,

Chain Daisy.
 
Thanks Chain Daisy, you've been very helpful :)
Not sure what the 'to-do' was in the earlier post (must've been removed) - there's no confusion, just a decision to be made over to go wired or not. Relating the spikes, it was something I'd read on another forum and wasn't to do with anti-tamper specifically, it was just that spikes often seemed to cause false alarms on that system (and fitting additional resistors to the input circuit prevented it).

I don't mind spending a little more if the system was right for me but I don't need it to be Fort Knox - if they want in, they'll get in, it's mostly a deterrent as you say. I'm still struggling to find a major downside to the wireless other than battery changes - it's a small house so range is ok, don't mind chunkier contacts and interference seems to be less of an issue these days.
 
With regard to your last post, the ".. to do.." relates to just a minority of characters on the site who attempt to spoil things and bring DIYnot into disrepute with the general public who view this forum.

Anyway, we are going off topic a little, so why not think it over and let me know what you decide in a few days.

Take care mate,

Chain Daisy.
 
provided you are not on a main highway with HGV's passing every second, or near a railway, or near overhead power cables, it might be worth considering the Yale system..
It is always worth considering all options and making an informed decision. HGVs, railways and overhead power cables are not the only things that affect SRD wireless communications.
 
provided you are not on a main highway with HGV's passing every second, or near a railway, or near overhead power cables, it might be worth considering the Yale system..
It is always worth considering all options and making an informed decision. HGVs, railways and overhead power cables are not the only things that affect SRD wireless communications.

I have installed Yales near busy roads with absolutely no problems whatsoever. I also never had problems with overhead power lines. I assume you mean electrified rail lines? Can't comment on that one as There aren't many electrified lines around up here. I would suspect only the arcing would cause inteference but it would not be likely to trigger the jamming detection as its duration would not fall within the criteria of the algorithm.
 
It's always worth considering facts gained through actual experience of installed alarms.

Sadly we get quite a lot of fanciful speculation which is quite unrelated to any examples of wireless alarms failing to work when a burglar attempts to enter an ordinary domestic home in an ordinary residential street and commit a crime.
 

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