Wiring a new oven?

[Sponge]

My oven has finally been delivered and I wanted to know if I can wire it in myself? Or is it a notifiable job? (Get a spark in.)

The electrician that recently re-wired my house has pre-installed a cooker switch in the cupboard adjacent to where the oven will be.

The oven has no lead, but three terminals behind a panel - L/N/E. The manual states the requirement for a H05 RR-F or H05 VV-F, >1.5m length of 1.5-2.5mm^2 cable. It also talks of '...if connected to the power supply by a plug...' but it would not be my intention to use a plug, but the switch the electrican left.

I have some 2.5mm^2 2 core + earth cable which I could use.

Technical data at rear of manual states output power as 3,650W max.

 

[Iggifer]

you can do it yourself but you should use H05 cable, not just any old type (although twin+earth is often used)

 

[riveralt]

If the electrician has done his job right - the cooker switch in the cupboard should have 6mm ² T&E cable that goes to a cooker connection unit normally behind or to the side of where the oven is going.
If you don't know what these things are look them up.

If no cable has been provided by the oven manufacturer then you need to follow their instructions.
You should not use standard Twin and Earth cable because the cable they are asking for is heat resistant and that is what you should obtain.
Your local electrical wholesale/retailer should be able to provide same - the sheds tend not to have this cable in the sizes required and those that do charge a fortune.

 

[Sponge]

Would this be any good? (I already have some.) Or would 2.5mm be recommended? (I'd have to buy some.)

There is no CCU behind where the oven will be; just the switch in a neighbouring larder unit. Is one required to meet current regs?

 

[riveralt]

Yes that cable should be enough - seems to meet manufacturers standard.
Though personally I would go for the higher rating.
Since there isn't cooker connection unit then you are left with only one choice and you will have to wire it to the cooker switch. One assumes you can run the cable from the switch to the oven neatly.
Be aware that your cable is stranded and you might want to double it up when terminating in the cooker switch.

 

[Sponge]

Yeah, running the cable will be simple and I promise to be neat.

So, to summarise:

2.5mm heat resistant (butyl) cable would be preferable to the 1.5mm HR I have. However, the 1.5mm HR cable is still preferable to the 2.5mm, non-HR T+E*

I'll also be going direct to the switch.

Thanks to all.

*At least this way the colours will be harmonised, as my T+E was red/black.

Out of curiosity, is it the 'H05' that decodes to 'heat resistant'?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

No - H05 translates to Harmonised, 300/500V.

It's the later parts of the code, e.g H05-RR or H05-RN which "translate" to that.

See //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:harcode.