Wiring Oven and Hob

[Bobbya82]

JohnD,

Thanks for your reply, here are some photos of whats in at the moment:

The current cooker

The current cooker, name:

The point behind the cooker where cable goes

The switch:

Just to be clear.

1. I should take the existing cooker cable and plug this into the 5.8kw hob.

2. Spur off my ring main and install a plug socket somewhere under the worktop for the oven in the pdf link to be plugged in.

3. Buy a 32A MCB from screwfix in previous link and replace the current 45A dedicated cooker fuse with this? (Which will be just for the hob?)

Thanks.

Pete.

 

[JohnD]

Yes, except that the switch for the oven need to be above the worktop, in clear view so that you can quickly switch it off in the event of a fault, fire or for servicing. You can use a 20A DP switch for this, with an unswitched single 13A socket below. Adding sockets in a kitchen is notifiable work, see the excellent Wiki on Part P etc.

 

[Bobbya82]

JohnD,

So I need:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=45445&ts=9069

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=66137&ts=90628


I have a normal double socket nearby, I take it is out of the question to plug it into this.

Also are we just looking at 2.5mm2 for the oven conenction?

Thanks

 

[JohnD]

yes

yes

no

yes

(Marbo is a really "cheap" brand. Crabtree and MK are two of the good ones.)

 

[Bobbya82]

Cheers,

So the socket is ok to be below the worktop.

I was planing to run a spur for my chimmey hood is it possible to utilizse what I am doing for oven for the hood as well?

 

[JohnD]

you could, but a cooker hood on a socket is very unsightly.

 

[Bobbya82]

Yeah,

So whats best for the hood then?. As I was not planning to run a spur for the oven. I was going to take the spur from a nearby double socket, I take it is not ok to run 2 spurs off this then?

Ta.

 

[JohnD]

that's a different question.

edited:
Start a new one about your spurs.

 

[Bobbya82]

How comes plugging into a normal socket is out of the question?

Thanks.

 

[JohnD]

It isn't.

1

2


I have a normal double socket nearby, I take it is out of the question to plug it into this.

4

1

2

no

4

 

[Bobbya82]

Is it ok to add the switched fused spur into the cooker circuit? and feed the oven from this?

Thanks

 

[JohnD]

No. The cooker circuit is in 6mm cable so OK for 30A or 32A, which is insufficient to run both the hob and the oven.

You have to supply the oven from a different circuit.

 

[Bobbya82]

Ok so I will take the spur from the ring main. So I wil end up with two sepeate switches for the oven and hob. One for the hob on the cooker circuit and one for the oven on the ring main via spur.
Sorry to go on, but even if I use 6mm cable is it wrong to plug the exisitng cooker cable into the hob and then loop the oven into the hob.

Also the Flats ring main is only on a 30A fuse, is this not likely to blow if I have washing machine, kettle, OVEN etc on it

thanks

 

[Bobbya82]

Also can someone tell me why its best to have a 20A DP switch for the oven and not a 13A?

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A431906&ts=82111&id=13479

 

[JohnD]

That thing is not a switch, it is a Fused Connection Unit.

As you are using a plug and socket, which incorporates a fuse, it is better not to have another fuse on the same appliance.

In the event of an overload blowing the fuse, it gives you twice the effort and cost to replace it. It can also case confusion if someone changes one blown fuse and then doesn't know why that doesn't fix the problem.