Wylex Upgrade 30A to 45A needed or not?

[JohnD]

personally I would go for two, because the twin-tariff ones are rare and expensive. See if your electrician has any preference.

and put your immersion heater and tumble-drier on the off-peak supply as well, it will halve the cost (roughly) if you can use then at night.

 

[GODLY]

personally I would go for two, because the twin-tariff ones are rare and expensive. See if your electrician has any preference.

I have been looking for twin tarriff ones for the new 17th edition but they are soo hard to find. Crabtree, wylex, MK and Hager all have the new ones but no retailer stocks the dual tarriff ones.

I will try a little more before i go for two which i know is more manageable.

this is what i am planning to set up is i get the dual tarriff CU. 7/5 split

Mains Switch
Lights - RCBO 6A

RCD - Peak
Cooker - 32A/30A
Living room and kitchen ring - 32A/30A
Two Rooms and hall way ring - 32A/30A
Peak Immersion heater - 15A/16A
Spare
Spare

Mains Switch - Off Peak
Immersion heater - 15A/16A
Storage Heater - 15A/16A
Storage Heater - 15A/16A
Storage Heater - 15A/16A
Spare

Does the above arrangement look ok?

Do i need RCD protection for the off peak Storage Heaters?

Does an RCD take up one space i.e reduces the amount of spares on the CU?

Do i need More RCBO's for an ideal setup? if so where?

Do i need Isolation between the two tarriffs?

and put your immersion heater and tumble-drier on the off-peak supply as well, it will halve the cost (roughly) if you can use then at night.

Unfortunately i cannot use any of them at night as it is a flat.

Lastly i am replacing all the sockets and switches around flat to new chrome ones. I want to know if it is ok to use a 13A fused spur for the storage heaters rather than a normal switched spur?

Thanks for helping.

Nav

 

[JohnD]

most RCDs are two units wide. Crabtree Starbreaker are 3 units, and it will only go in one place because the busbar is special plug-in type. MEM Memera 2000AD is the only brand I know where the busbar can be cut or snapped to size and you can alter the RCD split at will

RCBOs are usually only one unit wide, and will replace an MCB. Some are 2 units. it depends on the brand and range.

I think you have a good idea to put the lights on their own RCBO, this should save the lights going out if you have an earth fault on a different circuit (having all the lights go out can cause accidents).

Today, you only have to have sockets protected by an RCD, but the regulations change this year, and a new installation under 17th Edition of regs has to have all concealed cables protected by an RCD (I simplify; the idea is to protect you if you drill or nail into a wall and hit a cable). However simple CUs with RCD are widely available at low cost.

IIRC although at the moment you can choose which regulations to use, the new ones are enforced for work commencing from June.

Hopefully an active professional electrician will be along with the correct dates and info as I do not have it to hand.

Unless your cooker is a very new one it would be preferable to have it on its own RCBO, since they tend to cause nuisance tripping as they age.

As all your storage heaters have their own fuse/mcb, it is not correct to fit FCUs. An unfused flex outlet, possibly switched, is correct. These are manufactured by the major companies in stainless, chrome, brass etc finishes. As the heaters are on dedicated radial circuits they are not spurs.

 

[GODLY]

As all your storage heaters have their own fuse/mcb, it is not correct to fit FCUs. An unfused flex outlet, possibly switched, is correct. These are manufactured by the major companies in stainless, chrome, brass etc finishes. As the heaters are on dedicated radial circuits they are not spurs.

Only reason i asked if i can put the fused spur is that the range of sockets i am buying do not come with a switched outlet but only have a 13A fused switched spur with cable outlet. I really need an outlet for the heaters.

See link:

http://www.toolstation.com/messages.html?code=51543&mainWin=1

I might have to look elsewhere or just get the blank outlet seen here:

http://www.toolstation.com/messages.html?code=26894&mainWin=1

But this way i dont have control over each of the Heaters. I would have to label the MCB's so that i can switch them off when needed.

What do you think?

 

[JohnD]

you may have to check with manufacturers to see which accessories have a flex outlet. An electrical supplier will have a larger range.

storage heaters usually have their own switches under a flap.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/index.html

the consumer unit circuits should all be labelled anyway

 

[GODLY]

As all your storage heaters have their own fuse/mcb, it is not correct to fit FCUs. An unfused flex outlet, possibly switched, is correct. These are manufactured by the major companies in stainless, chrome, brass etc finishes. As the heaters are on dedicated radial circuits they are not spurs.

Is it ok to install a 20A switch to storage heaters?

like:

http://www.connectstores.com/P.E.D/sp_33414-5.html#A177848

Also if i split the CU for off peak, do i need RCD protection for all my storage heaters and immersion?

thanks,

Naval

 

[JohnD]

Yes

Not today

 

[GODLY]

Yes

Not today

thank you soo much for all your help. I really appreciate it.

regards,

Nav

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You do realise that all this work you plan to do is notifiable?

 

[GODLY]

You do realise that all this work you plan to do is notifiable?

Changing the CU?

Im not sure if it is notifiable or not but im sure the electrician will be well informed about the regulations. He is registered with ELECSA and i have checked his details with them.

 

[kkynaston]

You do realise that all this work you plan to do is notifiable?

Changing the CU?

Im not sure if it is notifiable or not but im sure the electrician will be well informed about the regulations. He is registered with ELECSA and i have checked his details with them.

I don't know if there was a hint of sarcasm there but it made me laugh anyway!

 

[GODLY]

You do realise that all this work you plan to do is notifiable?

Changing the CU?

Im not sure if it is notifiable or not but im sure the electrician will be well informed about the regulations. He is registered with ELECSA and i have checked his details with them.

I don't know if there was a hint of sarcasm there but it made me laugh anyway!

no sarcasm there.. i genuinely dont know about the regulations and so i am hoping that the electrician does.

I am changing sockets around the flat and the CU will be changed by a qualified electrician.

 

[kkynaston]

I am changing sockets around the flat and the CU will be changed by a qualified electrician.

Excellent, At least some people still know their limits and ask advise when not sure.
I hate it when people just get on with it against FREE (mostly professional) advise from this forum.

Well I wont mess up this thread by starting that.

Ta Ta!

 

[GODLY]

I am changing sockets around the flat and the CU will be changed by a qualified electrician.

Excellent, At least some people still know their limits and ask advise when not sure.
I hate it when people just get on with it against FREE (mostly professional) advise from this forum.

Well I wont mess up this thread by starting that.

Ta Ta!

I still dont know what you are on about?

Is it me being sarcastic?

or am i not thankful enough for the help i have received so far?

Sorry but i dont understand you.

 

[kkynaston]

No sorry i thought this was a bite back at BAS...

Im not sure if it is notifiable or not but im sure the electrician will be well informed about the regulations. He is registered with ELECSA and i have checked his details with them.

But it was not so I am sorry

Is it me being sarcastic?

or am i not thankful enough for the help i have received so far?

No I only meant that its good to see you asking for advise rather that just getting on with it with no knowledge like so many people do. I didn't mean to offend you

I'll get my coat