01 SEAT Cordoba 1.4 petrol

Thanks John. The Skotchloks are on the brake lights actually. There aren't any skotchloks on the reverse lights, but I guess they could link up and it could still be a skotchlok, even if it is on one of the brake lights.

There is no signal coming from either wire through the earthed tester.

I also suspect that wiring between the reverse light and the fog light must be the issue? Maybe I should trace both the b&w and the brown wires,(hopefully only down to the fog lamp beneath) and replace them both?

Do the wires just pull out of the clips?
 
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I've just had a crazy thought....your car is intended to have two reverse lights, and not just the one..... :eek: I'm sure it has!
If it was mine - and I hope I haven't lost the plot here - I'd cut the wires going into the plug, 50mm back. I'd make sure the wire ends were tied up so no matter what happened, no harm would forthcome.
I'd then connect a 12v supply to the plug brown and blue, just to see the correct bulb came on. If so.....
I'd then take a wire from the good reversing light, and solder it into the blue / white wire issuing from the plug. I'd then connect the plug brown wire to earth.
You'll find these plugs are factory crimped, and usually have to be cut open.
John :)
 
:) Yeah, 2 reverse lights for sure!

Is the bulb test just to make sure it works? Because I have tested the bulb and the case that holds it on the opposite side and they work when switched around.
So if that much is sound, I could solder a new wire from the blue and white good side to the blue and white bad side. And then solder a wire to the brown wire bad side and earth the other end? Is that correct? I reckon I culd manage that.

The earthing wires come with a circled clamp at the end, right? Is this essential? I could buy one of them if need be. The wire I have at the moment is brown 27 amp wire, but it has no circle clamp at the end.
 
Yep, you are on the right track with that......my test was just to ensure that all was well within the lamp cluster.
The thing on the end of the wire is called a ring terminal, and may be soldered or crimped....I usually by the crimp type, cut the plastic bit off and solder the wire in for security. These things are available in multi packs from the likes of Halfords etc.
John :)
 
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John, thanks again. Between the car and my broadband I'm running around like a lunatic here!!! :)
Anyway, hopefully today, but maybe tomorrow I aim to get this soldering done. I will keep you updated! :)

Is there any chance that this repair could have a positive affect on the window mounted light and window heater issue, even though they are not directly linked?
 
The window mounted brake light could certainly be affected by earthing problems....hence my comment about ensuring the boot lid was connected to the bodywork separately.
The rear window heater is a different issue, I suspect.
Looking forward to hearing about any results!
John :)
 
Hi John.
Jut back from Halfords and and they don't tock the clip. So I'll have to go to the dealer for the revere light clip. I did pick up a ring terminal though.
The reason I think the brake light/heated window issue is connected is because when I engage the brake pedal, the switch for my heated window lights up on my dash. And if I disconnect the brake pedal switch, the window heater works again!!! :) It is like it is borrowing power from the window heater switch. The 2 switches are located beside each other just above the brake pedal.
The problem did go away for a while a few weeks ago, after I replaced the single filament bulb in the brake light holder, but it is back again now.
 
Definitely double check the lamp clusters for the correct bulbs.....single filiament bulbs especially can cause all sorts of funnies.
Example - Peugeot 205 diesel. Single filiament bulb fitted into the stop / tail bulb holder. Result (ignition off) press the brake pedal and the fuel gauge registered! Get my drift?
John :)
 
John, I did double check the brake lights. That wa when I found a single filament bulb where a double should have been. They're all doubles now. Could they be faulty in some other way, despite the fact that they are working perfectly, it's the window mounted one that isn't!!
 
I think the earth from the heated rear window is joined to the stoplamp earth somewhere, and its that which is compromised.
I'd be inclined to run a separate earth from the HRW.
John :)
 
Thanks guys. You've both been very helpful through this thread. :) And patient too! I did connect a temporary earth between the boot and the boot lid, but it didn't change anything just yet. Perhaps when I fix the harness/clip into the reverse light. :)
 
Guys, you are going to LOVE this. John, you were correct. While it really, REALLY looks like this car has 2 reverse lights, it doesn't. The one on the right is the fog lamp. :oops: I never had the 2 on at the same time during my testing, mainly because I was satisfied that the fog lamp was fine. Unfortunately, I found out the hard way. Delighted with myself for managing to splice, solder, earth a couple of cables, all seemed well when I tested with the voltage tester. So I wired it all up and then noticed that the ''reverse light'' on the right hand side was shining bright red. :oops: FOG LAMP ALERT!!!! :oops: :evil:
So, in actual fact, I had no need to do anything. The fog light and reverse light were both working perfectly before I messed with it!!! The earth voltage test produced nothing from that side, because I didn't have the fog light switched on. :oops:
Anyway, to make a long story even more boring, I tried reversing the process and now my fog light doesn't work!!!! I guess I may have blown the fuse somewhere along the way???

After the embarrassment passed, I decided that the only way to redeem myself for my own stupidity, was to go out and fix the brake light/heated window issue. Thankfully after 5 minutes of making sure the earths to the heated window and the window mounted brake light were secure, that issue was solved. I guess one of them was loose? So I felt a little better then. :D

Now, I guess I have to replace the fuse for the fog light. At this stage though the harness plug is almost unusable. How can I get the 2 metal clamps in the harness plug open so that I can take out the old wiring old worn wiring, and clamp in the freshly prepared fog lamp wires? IS there an easy way to do this?
 
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