Okay -
IF the brickwork is in a bad way, the hp gear that external mentioned will let you mesh the whole lot and stabilise the background. I would advise filling in any big holes with mortar first. And bed the mesh into a coat of hp12, flatten it in and lap joints 100mm. There are marks on the mesh to help you
http://www.k-rend.co.uk/media/04a8a60bf6884265bf8a995bf0f2fbf9HP12.pdf
or weber's product, rendaid
http://www.netweber.co.uk/uploads/tx_weberproductpage/G.011_weber.rend_aid.pdf
You can scratch these, although when meshing, I like to run a roller over it which gives it a stipple for a key.
Mesh here
http://www.lordanddowning.co.uk/buyAccessories.php?id=72
look at the 1 m rolls.
If you only have some areas that need meshing and don't want to buy the HP12, either for cost or because you are more familiar with s&c,you can use sand and cement for the base coat.
Rake out any loose, fill and repair holes etc, and coat with
4:1 (washed fine sharp sand 3mm down
pc) with waterproofer
scratch as you go and get this coat as flat as you can.
float coat with same sand and lime, no waterproofer
5:1:1 .
You could go weaker with both mixes as it is old soft bricks and mortar, 5:1 scratch and 6:1:1 float.
If your scratch coat is flat, you will find top coat is easier and drys more uniformly. If you can rule it off and float it, good - but if not, flatten with trwoel and sponge it.
If you are not worried about it being flat and the rest of the house is like that, as long as you are happy with it , fine!
Remember dpc at bottom (hard to line up bellcast with chemical dpc), cloaking at top
IF the brickwork is in a bad way, the hp gear that external mentioned will let you mesh the whole lot and stabilise the background. I would advise filling in any big holes with mortar first. And bed the mesh into a coat of hp12, flatten it in and lap joints 100mm. There are marks on the mesh to help you
http://www.k-rend.co.uk/media/04a8a60bf6884265bf8a995bf0f2fbf9HP12.pdf
or weber's product, rendaid
http://www.netweber.co.uk/uploads/tx_weberproductpage/G.011_weber.rend_aid.pdf
You can scratch these, although when meshing, I like to run a roller over it which gives it a stipple for a key.
Mesh here
http://www.lordanddowning.co.uk/buyAccessories.php?id=72
look at the 1 m rolls.
If you only have some areas that need meshing and don't want to buy the HP12, either for cost or because you are more familiar with s&c,you can use sand and cement for the base coat.
Rake out any loose, fill and repair holes etc, and coat with
4:1 (washed fine sharp sand 3mm down
pc) with waterprooferscratch as you go and get this coat as flat as you can.
float coat with same sand and lime, no waterproofer
5:1:1 .
You could go weaker with both mixes as it is old soft bricks and mortar, 5:1 scratch and 6:1:1 float.
If your scratch coat is flat, you will find top coat is easier and drys more uniformly. If you can rule it off and float it, good - but if not, flatten with trwoel and sponge it.
If you are not worried about it being flat and the rest of the house is like that, as long as you are happy with it , fine!
Remember dpc at bottom (hard to line up bellcast with chemical dpc), cloaking at top
