1900's farmhouse gable end to re-render help please
- Thread starter johnmac1979
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i bet you lads bust it up with the old air guitar 
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You may wish to determine if you have a lime mortar holding your brickwork together, which would explain the fragile nature of the mortar, not that theres anything wrong with the mortar if it is lime mortar or any of the older types of mix that may have been used.
If it is as easy as you say to remove the mortar, then the comment I would make would be to rake out the mortar joints to a depth of around 18-25mm, hose down with clean water (or bucket/s of water if you don't have a water supply to hand) then apply a slurry mix of sand and cement (say no more than 4 sand to 1 cement) with a stiff brush, working well into the mortar joints, and then when set apply 1 or 2 coats of render to finish off!
Regards
If it is as easy as you say to remove the mortar, then the comment I would make would be to rake out the mortar joints to a depth of around 18-25mm, hose down with clean water (or bucket/s of water if you don't have a water supply to hand) then apply a slurry mix of sand and cement (say no more than 4 sand to 1 cement) with a stiff brush, working well into the mortar joints, and then when set apply 1 or 2 coats of render to finish off!
Regards
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Thanks again for all the guidance. ... And the Status Quo lyrics!
Two final questions.... If I use a standard sand and cement scratch coat... How long after before I can apply the finish coat? Hours? Days? Weeks???
And last but not least... How long after thewhole job is done before I can paint the newly rendered wall???
Many thanks!!
John.
Two final questions.... If I use a standard sand and cement scratch coat... How long after before I can apply the finish coat? Hours? Days? Weeks???
And last but not least... How long after thewhole job is done before I can paint the newly rendered wall???
Many thanks!!
John.
If you can leave the scratch coat for at least four days do so, if in no hurry with scaffolding, mixer etc to off hire a week is better. Have a look then to see if you have any cracking etc - perhaps a couple of areas that were a bit thicker may have sagged or cracked, perhaps where you meshed over a timber or existing crack might do so - these are unlikely, but have a look.
The day before you render, you can chuck a cup of water on to the wall, and see what your suction is like. This is hard to guage in words and will depend on your base coat/preparation, but if the water dries in instantly, you will need to hose the wall. For a gable end without waterproofer, I hose down the evening before and that morning if it is dry. You are better off with too much time than too little, but be careful you don't end up with the bottom of the wall too saturated, as the water in the render coat will make it's way down down as well.
Have a look at the weather .You get obsessive about this working outside. (It's worse when using monocouche in winter as you assess night time temp and cloud cover when rubbing up the next day but that's another story)
You obviously don't do it on a wet day, but look at when the sun hits it on a warm day - do you want to be rubbing it up at midday with full sun, as a wind plays across it?
You will be fine -preparation is the key.
L
lifesagasman
Pictures of matchstick men, Bet you lot dont remember that one I think it was their first hit in the sixties....
As for the gable ,I would mesh the whole lot, "scut it" then scratch( 5-1 s/c with w/p)
Then float it out 6-1-1 .if it's going to move it will move what ever you put on it...
don't forget that quirky 'b' side, gentleman joe's sidewalk cafe (75c minimum)
Pictures of matchstick men, Bet you lot dont remember that one I think it was their first hit in the sixties....
As for the gable ,I would mesh the whole lot, "scut it" then scratch( 5-1 s/c with w/p)
Then float it out 6-1-1 .if it's going to move it will move what ever you put on it...
don't forget that quirky 'b' side, gentleman joe's sidewalk cafe (75c minimum)
Anyone remember the Barron Knights skit to MAtchstalk Men?
'And he painted Grandad's Bike and next door's cats and dogs
He sprayed a couple on the corner of the street, they were having a snog
He fell down on his can, and his aerosol wen't 'bang'
And all they found was a flat cap and his gloves'
sad,truly truly sad!
Hi all. I'm back looking for more advice! I'm delighted to report the scratch coat is almost finished and looking bloody good if I do say so myself!! Hope to have it finished either today or tomorrow. So far not a crack in sight... And looks very well bonded to the brick.
my next question refers to the float coat. Firstly what kind of sand should I use?? My old builder says building sand (though he's 75, so a bit behind the times!) a quick google says DONT use building sand... Others say only use it if it's washed?? Others say, only use plastering sand?? Whilst some say use the same sharp I used for the scratch coat??
Also what 'kind' of lime should I use in the float coat??
Many thanks for any help!!
John.
my next question refers to the float coat. Firstly what kind of sand should I use?? My old builder says building sand (though he's 75, so a bit behind the times!) a quick google says DONT use building sand... Others say only use it if it's washed?? Others say, only use plastering sand?? Whilst some say use the same sharp I used for the scratch coat??
Also what 'kind' of lime should I use in the float coat??
Many thanks for any help!!
John.
PS
the wall will be getting painted with Dulux weathershield a month or so after it's finished so it ties in with the rest of the house!! If that makes any difference??
Cheers,
John.
the wall will be getting painted with Dulux weathershield a month or so after it's finished so it ties in with the rest of the house!! If that makes any difference??
Cheers,
John.
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