2 amp sockets
- Thread starter Bumbly
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Ah - you mean in the same way that BS 1363 sockets are rated at 32A - that makes sense....
FYI - that's not an RCD, it's an MCB.
The device to the left of it is an RCD, as is the main switch.
I hope you do press the test buttons every few months....
I couldn't resist the temptation to press the test button last night - everything went dark, and the mains switch went off, so I assume that it is working OK. Now I know I will press it every few months.
Is a CHINT MCB a bad thing ? Spark123 didn't seem too impressed with it.
Electrically speaking, electrical showers seem to be bad news. Water and high current don't mix well. I would much rather have a shower running off the hot water tank, especially as our shower unit looks quite old.
Is a CHINT MCB a bad thing ? Spark123 didn't seem too impressed with it.
Electrically speaking, electrical showers seem to be bad news. Water and high current don't mix well. I would much rather have a shower running off the hot water tank, especially as our shower unit looks quite old.
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Don't forget you've got two of them....
Cheap'n'nasty seems to be the common view, but presumably they comply with the appropriate standards....
They seem to be an OK combination in kettles and immersion heaters.
A tankful of hot water doesn't last long.
apart from bring cheap, Chint is not (I think) the same brand as your CU as everything else appears to be MK. It is always best to use manufacturer's original parts, since they will have been tested and approved together. Other brands may not line up correctly (there is no standard for the busbar position).
MK have altered there design a few times over the years so og buying a replacement have a look at the part no's of your existing devices and see if they are the same range. I imagine you can still get parts for older MK ranges.
MK have altered there design a few times over the years so og buying a replacement have a look at the part no's of your existing devices and see if they are the same range. I imagine you can still get parts for older MK ranges.
Think JohnD summed it up - it is best to use MK devices in an MK CU as they have been designed to be compatable and fully type tested.
Chint are not renowned for being top quality either, more towards the bottom of the budget range. MK protective devices are readily available - the only reason I can think of why anyone would fit Chint in there is they are cheap.
If you buy a Ferrari you don't put Fiesta wheels on it!
Chint are not renowned for being top quality either, more towards the bottom of the budget range. MK protective devices are readily available - the only reason I can think of why anyone would fit Chint in there is they are cheap.
If you buy a Ferrari you don't put Fiesta wheels on it!
Everything except the CTI RCD next to the Chint MCB...
And the CU has a transparent flap - MKs don't, or haven't for a while - did they used to?
Maybe it's a Heinz Mk 1...
The CU has a large MK symbol embossed top left corner and a label that reads MK Sentry Consumer Unit bottom right so I guess that makes it an MK unit.
Ban I hear what your saying about kettles and immersion heaters being OK, but I don't stand naked under a kettle.
Also we have a massive tank, so running out of hot water is not likely. I have had electric showers in two previous houses. I do not like them much. Cheap and nasty sums it up.
Ban I hear what your saying about kettles and immersion heaters being OK, but I don't stand naked under a kettle.
Also we have a massive tank, so running out of hot water is not likely. I have had electric showers in two previous houses. I do not like them much. Cheap and nasty sums it up.
Yep.
Old MK sentry.
Back in the days when MK used to make top quality consumer units.
Yup - couldn't see that in the photo.
OK - describe what could go wrong with a properly installed shower that could harm you via the water from it.
Fair enough - until we ditched our tank and bought a combi we had one which could not have kept a shower supplied for 45-60 minutes.
Many are, but then nasty products are often the result of buying cheap in all sorts of areas, not just showers - I blame the sheds.
Are Chint and CTI the same product rebadged by the importer ? Ive fitted a Chint RCD and it was very poor quality and i had to get a replacment as it would not latch even with the power off.
Both electric showers I have owned previously failed disastrously with water flowing out of the shower body/control unit. That's a 100% failure rate. I got out of there fast, I can tell you.
The first was a Triton T30, the second a Triton T60. Both were old. Both were installed by previous owners. Both experienced a period of poor running followed by total failure, partly due to limescale build up. You can imagine my feelings at finding a Mira unit in our new cottage. It is going to be replaced with a proper shower as soon as possible, especially as we live in an area of hard water, which seems to contribute to the problem.
Maybe a brand new professionally installed electric shower would work OK for a few years? I doubt I'll ever be in a position to find out.
The first was a Triton T30, the second a Triton T60. Both were old. Both were installed by previous owners. Both experienced a period of poor running followed by total failure, partly due to limescale build up. You can imagine my feelings at finding a Mira unit in our new cottage. It is going to be replaced with a proper shower as soon as possible, especially as we live in an area of hard water, which seems to contribute to the problem.
Maybe a brand new professionally installed electric shower would work OK for a few years? I doubt I'll ever be in a position to find out.
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How do you mean, "interchangeable"?
Do you mean you have 5A round pin sockets elsewhere, or do you mean you have lamps elsewhere with standard plugs fitted with 5A fuses?
If it is the former, then that makes some sense, if you want to beable to swap lamps around as you please.
If it is the latter and you want to fit standard sockets for your lighting, I'd leave them as they are.
I have 2A sockets in my lounge running table lamps, fed via a 6A MCB. As has been said, it would be pretty difficult, if not impossible to overload the socket with a single domestic light fitting.
I have just done a quick search and the largest plug-in light fitting I can find, in terms of load, is 340W.
It is increasingly popular to have 2amp or 5amp (I prefer the smaller 2amp) sockets switched seperately at the door.
We are doing some large house refurbs at the moment, and are finding these are requested regularly.
We are doing some large house refurbs at the moment, and are finding these are requested regularly.
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