Advice on using existing 32A cooker supply for EV 7kw charger

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Hi

I have a 32a supply in the kitchen for cooker and looking to use that for 7kw EV charger, as I can swap to a gas cooker instead of the electric. The cable from the consumer unit is 6mm and 7m distance. The charger will add another 4m to that cable run. Any advice will be appreciated.
 
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The supply is coming from this fuse
 

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The problem with charging an EV, is it takes so long. If I look at my cooker, it may peak well over 32 amp, but for such a short time it is not problem.

So there are a few points, one is often the EV charge point needs to be connected to internet or a CT (current transformer) so the supplier or the CT can reduce the charge rate when either the grid or your house has a high demand.

I would consider an EV as a second car, but much is dependent on your house and your use of the EV, there is no one method suits all. As said it needs to be supplied from a dedicated bidirectional RCD in the same way as solar panels, so much depends on your consumer unit, clearly the old twin RCD consumer unit is not going to work, but a modern all RCBO consumer unit may be OK.

As to moving from electric to gas for cooking, gas has one advantage, it allows the use of a light wok, full stop, there is no other advantage to gas, the hobs are not as easy to control to an induction hob, it needs an extractor (hood) to outside, to get rid of the water it produces as well as combustion products, the ovens have no ability to heat back, side, top like the electric oven, and the control is no where near as good.

I will admit to find a cook book which translates from the old solid fuel oven where dampers could direct the heat in many different ways is hard, Mrs Beeton originally was written before the gas cooker, but they have been re-written to give gas mark settings, and the old damper settings removed. Clearly no longer Mrs Beeton even if it shows her name.

There is a lot involved with an outside charging point, no where near as much as with an in garage charging point. The buzz phrase is "equipotential bonding" and "loss of PEN protection" this is what makes installing an EV charging point outside a big problem, there are ways around the problems, but it means the installation is far from simple.

As user you really don't need to know, except that it will need a survey, and the installer will need to work out best way around the problems in your case. This may well be the use of a special cable etc.
 
The likely best option will be for the Electrician to install a brand new final circuit for the EVSE rather than trying to butcher something else. Surely you need power for the ignition anyway for the hob so might as well leave that as is. The EVSE cannot be on a shared circuit.
 
The likely best option will be for the Electrician to install a brand new final circuit for the EVSE rather than trying to butcher something else. Surely you need power for the ignition anyway for the hob so might as well leave that as is. The EVSE cannot be on a shared circuit.
not looking to share but remove the Electric as we plan to revert to gas cooker
 
Even though its not actually over 32A, I would be unhappy with having an connected to a standard / non-uprated way in a wylex standard board (as it appears OP has) because an EVSE will be pulling on the limit for that way and pulling it for hours at a time. Plus the majority of these boards had 60A main switches.

Its either a fuseboard upgrade required (which you do need anyway) or a separate 1way unit for the EVSE adding. Converting a reduydant electric cooker supply with an RCD in an enclosure stuck on the kitchen wall is not the way to to it, especially as you'll likely need a pair of cores back to the mains for the CT on the incomming supply anyway.
 
When fitting solar panels, I also had a problem as to routing cables through the house, my floors have been repaired by over boarding, so access to void between floor and ceiling would mean removing the ceiling.

So the cables were simply run around the outside of the house.

It will depend on the EV charge point used, what is inside the charge point varies, what I would expect to see is at the origin of your supply, a CT coil around the in coming supply to monitor the total power used in the house, this is connected in some way to the EV charge point, which in turn relays the information to the car so it can adjust the power being taken to ensure you don't exceed the total supplied to the premises.

The method often used is a special cable from the supply point to the EV charge point which includes a data cable. The EV charge point may use a wireless data link, but we are looking at all the other protection also required, like loss of PEN detection, and DC current detection, and the RCD, the installer will select a unit that suits your situation, where I would the supply to the EV charge point is dedicated to that job, so an easy install, but in the main one has to split the supply, the use of henley blocks seems to be favourite, I would expect some thing like this.
1723367037981.png
This is actually for solar panels, but likely you will end up with some thing similar. There are actually two CT coils, the top one just above the meter works my immersion heater, so it only runs when there is excess solar, there needs to be a gap between the two coils, they can and did interfere with each other.
 

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