Bending Battens to Curved Bay

[wingit]

My moto, find a way to do it, not a way not to

I wish more people shared that view

 

[catlad]

I suspect it will be waterproof for many years Wingit with the new pvc cills

 

[datarebal]

If the winds kind

 

[mattu27]

Current progress on mine, insulated and membraned up. Noticed that the curve of he bay doesn't match the angles of the sill so am thinking I'll need to counter batten out the sides to get it looking right?



I've double layered the bottom section of the bay to form a run off should rainwater get past the tiles. Im guessing this lead section is totally wrong aswell? It was originally attached onto the bottom of a run of battens so that looking up all you saw was lead, but it would act like a funnel if the membrane wasn't covering it. Datarebal could you advise on the right method. Guessing a lead apron of sorts?



Thanks

 

[wingit]

I suspect it will be waterproof for many years Wingit with the new pvc cills

Thanks catlad

 

[catlad]

Water will not get past vertically hung tiles, no need for a membrane.

 

[datarebal]

Datarebal could you advise on the right method.

The lead in the picture can be dressed over the head of the ground floor window even though its not essential at that point. Your eaves tile and first full course will hang over the frame too.
The main areas of concern will be the tile to wall abutment which can be soakers and stepped flashing, easy. The top cill area should have had a tray but its a bit late for that now. This can only be the best you can do.
Are you trying to achieve an actual radius or are you going to mitre and soakers the corners?
if you want a full radius double camber tiles will make life easier.
packing out may give problems of cill coverage at the top
BtwThe membrane is not wasted and good practice

 

[catlad]

Not always! membranes can cause mould and condensation in certain situations.

 

[mattu27]

The lead in the picture can be dressed over the head of the ground floor window even though its not essential at that point. Your eaves tile and first full course will hang over the frame too.
The main areas of concern will be the tile to wall abutment which can be soakers and stepped flashing, easy. The top cill area should have had a tray but its a bit late for that now. This can only be the best you can do.
Are you trying to achieve an actual radius or are you going to mitre and soakers the corners?
if you want a full radius double camber tiles will make life easier.
packing out may give problems of cill coverage at the top
BtwThe membrane is not wasted and good practice

Thanks for the reply, so leave the lead as is?

You're going to hate this but I've removed the step flashings now and wasn't intending on refitting. The plan was to tile really tight to the brickwork as we aren't in an exposed area. Is it imperative that it's fitted?

I'm going for the same as wingit, altering the 5 sections into a radius, I've got some kerfed battens sat in a jig to hopefully ease them up.
I didn't even know that they did double cambered until wingit mentioned them. I'm new to this roofing game.

Planning to batten out a little bit to improve the shape of the curve. The middle section will be very tight to the sill I'll have to put the lead in before the tiles I think and then dress over.

Thanks

 

[datarebal]

A lot of the machine made clay tiles are cambered but not all. They will help with the curve.
Ref the flashing... best thing i can say here is -If it were my house i would reinstate as was.. it was fitted for a reason.

The top flashing as yours is going to need care a little bit of luck too.
Fit it before you batten, keep the underlay high and maybe tuck it right back before you fit the lead

interested to see the end product.

 

[wingit]

I gained a new found appreciation of the roofing trade when doing this, my first roofing project, and tbh, if I knew how challenging it would be I would have left it for a professional to do, it's different from other work I've done on my house, in that the only way I'll measure its success is if it keeps the rain out and the heat in for a good number of years.

 

[mattu27]

Looks ace mate, very impressed by the final product. Now the pressure is on.

how did you get the eaves course to kick up? Two layers?

Did you lead clip the top? I'm setting mine out today and was going to attach the flashing to the top batten and then fold over after. Somehow....



Snapped a few putting them in the jig so need to pop out today for another bundle of battens.

Wish me luck.

 

[bernardgreen]

Looks amazing, well done.

 

[wingit]

Looks ace mate, very impressed by the final product. Now the pressure is on.

how did you get the eaves course to kick up? Two layers?

Did you lead clip the top? I'm setting mine out today and was going to attach the flashing to the top batten and then fold over after. Somehow....

View attachment 203240

Snapped a few putting them in the jig so need to pop out today for another bundle of battens.

Wish me luck.

Thanks mattu27, that jig looks good.

The bottom row has the eaves underneath, if you look at the battened photo I uploaded you'll see the two bottom rows set out for the eaves. They kick out a bit because of the wood 'cill' at the bottom of the bay. The more the tiles overhang the bottom cill of the bay, the more they'll kick out. I just went with enough overhang that I felt comfortable with.

Good luck fella

 

[wingit]

Looks amazing, well done.

Thanks bernardgreen, I appreciate you taking the time to comment