Beveled edge crackle glaze white brick tiles 200x100mm

[Yukster]

The walls in question are external but there isn't a history of dampness coming from the outside as far as I know. The wall does get cold and possibly a bit damp. So I understand that I can't drywall using dot & dab straight onto the brickwork.

In order to use tile backers, you advise to line the brick wall with breathable membrane, create a void using studs & then a line with a damp proof membrane under the waterproof Marmox tile backer boards (which i can tile and plaster). Is that right? I see other post where others used the Wicks membranes. Is that a good choice?

Alternatively I can use 4:1 sand & cement render with added waterproofer straight over the brickwork. I will need to wait 4 weeks for the render to cure but I can then prime and tile onto the render + plaster the top bit and paint. Is that right? If so, what waterproofer should I use? Wicks sell a waterproofer but I suspect it's not great. Any of these recommended? http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=waterproof+SBR+additive

I was told by the seller that my tiles are suitable for a wet area when sealed. BUT as you predicted the sealer soaks into & highlight the cracks and it doesn't look good. Would normal gloss metro tile http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod966/section280/Metro-White-Wall-Tile-20x10cm.html be suitable for a wet area?

 

[Richard C]

The walls in question are external but there isn't a history of dampness coming from the outside as far as I know. The wall does get cold and possibly a bit damp. So I understand that I can't drywall using dot & dab straight onto the brickwork.

Not a good idea as already stated.

In order to use tile backers, you advise to line the brick wall with breathable membrane, create a void using studs & then a line with a damp proof membrane under the waterproof Marmox tile backer boards (which i can tile and plaster). Is that right? I see other post where others used the Wicks membranes. Is that a good choice?

That’s one way of doing it; I’ve since posted another way of achieving the same thing using Marmox insulated boards.

Alternatively I can use 4:1 sand & cement render with added waterproofer straight over the brickwork. I will need to wait 4 weeks for the render to cure but I can then prime and tile onto the render + plaster the top bit and paint. Is that right? If so, what waterproofer should I use? Wicks sell a waterproofer but I suspect it's not great. Any of these recommended? http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=waterproof+SBR+additive[/QUOTE]
Yes that’s an SBR additive. Did you fully read the link I posted? I think 4:1 is too strong for a render mix, as I stated in that linked thread.

I was told by the seller that my tiles are suitable for a wet area when sealed. BUT as you predicted the sealer soaks into & highlight the cracks and it doesn't look good. Would normal gloss metro tile http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod966/section280/Metro-White-Wall-Tile-20x10cm.html be suitable for a wet area?

If they are not crackle finish then, yes of course they are.

I’m starting to get a headache now

 

[Yukster]

Thanks for being patient with my daft questions. Sorry for giving you a headache

I’ve since posted another way of achieving the same thing using Marmox insulated boards.

I noted your suggestion to use Marmox insulated boards but i didn't realise that I could dot & dab those tile backers straight onto the bricks of an external solid wall, without using the membranes or leaving a gap. Is that what you meant?

Yes that’s an SBR additive.

Are you referring to the Wicks waterproofer? Is that the best one?

Did you fully read the link I posted? I think 4:1 is too strong for a render mix, as I stated in that linked thread

I read your post carefully where you wrote that a 3:1 sand/cement mix is too strong. You suggested 4:1 or 5:1 mix.

 

[Richard C]

I noted your suggestion to use Marmox insulated boards but i didn't realise that I could dot & dab those tile backers straight onto the bricks of an external solid wall, without using the membranes or leaving a gap. Is that what you meant?

Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions most suitable to your case;
http://www.marmox.co.uk/dry-lining-insulation

Are you referring to the Wicks waterproofer? Is that the best one?

I’ve no idea where it ranks in the league of SBR products.

I read your post carefully where you wrote that a 3:1 sand/cement mix is too strong. You suggested 4:1 or 5:1 mix.

Use a 5:1 mix with water proofer.

 

[Yukster]

Thank you very much. I'm all set to make a start I know I've been a pain and I appreciate your patience...

 

[Yukster]

Apologies again for posting in the wrong thread. I assumed - incorrectly - that questions should be posted where the issue in question is/was being discussed.

My aim is to make a 1/2 tile with bevel edge for corners and edge. I can see how I can cut it in 1/2 at an angle. but I don't understand what you mean when you say 'cut the tile leaving a 1/2 mm glazed land on the edge of the tile & grout as normal'.

 

[Richard C]

Apologies again for posting in the wrong thread. I assumed - incorrectly - that questions should be posted where the issue in question is/was being discussed.

It’s best to either post questions in your current thread with a link to the original thread if necessary or start a new thread, otherwise it starts to get very untidy with nobody quiet sure who posted what to whom or who the original OP was, especially when the thread is some years old.

My aim is to make a 1/2 tile with bevel edge for corners and edge. I can see how I can cut it in 1/2 at an angle. but I don't understand what you mean when you say 'cut the tile leaving a 1/2 mm glazed land on the edge of the tile & grout as normal'.

I bevel the outside edge of a new tile at 45 degrees but not to a point, cut it so there is a ½ mm strip left (land), this leaves a 2mm gap for grouting which will match the rest of the tiles (assuming they have a 2mm gap). I then cut the other end of the tile to size to match in with the “brick” effect using a wet cutter, dress the cut edge with tile file & butt this up to the adjacent full tile. You won’t be able to do this if your laying bevel edge tiles brick fashion; in fact the only way you’re going to get the external corners looking OK is to cut the bevels off ALL the tiles so your left with a square corner; if you have alternative bevel/square edge tiles running down the external corner, it’s going to look terrible.

 

[Yukster]

I got the materials to dryline with Marmox tile backers. I spoke to Marmox and they advise to dot and dab the boards to the wall. They also say that I can easily screw the board to the floorboards. I was advised to seal the gaps with sealer and tape which is fine

My question in whether I should also install Marmox boards underneath the bath/shower to create a water-tight cubical around and underneath my bath, or is this overkill?

If I board under the bath, I would then need to tile over it and if so, how will I attach the bath to the floor. It sits in a wooden frame which was previously screwed to the floorboards.

 

[Richard C]

Are you dry lining with insulated Marmox boards?

So your also tiling the floor; what sort of floorboards do you have, are they proper timber boards or chipboard? Do you know the size/pitch/span of the joists? Which Marmox boards are you proposing to use for the floor?

When over boarding, you should screw though into the joists not just into the top of the floorboards which must be well secured. The floor must have no perceivable movement or flex or the tiles will fail. Normally overboard the entire floor & then fit the sanitary ware, is the bath & shower they newly installed & in position?

 

[Yukster]

Are you dry lining with insulated Marmox boards?

Yes, following your advice, I will dry line the walls with Marmox waterproof boards, prime and then tile.

So your also tiling the floor

I don't want to tile the floor. I have pine floorboards throughout the bathroom which I want to keep if possible. The question is whether I need to waterproof under the bath in some way? or should i just screw it back to the floorboards as it was before?

is the bath & shower they newly installed & in position

The bath isn't newly installed. I removed the it because the floorboards underneath it were rotting to I took it out to fix the floor.

 

[Richard C]

Sorry didn’t realise you were just referring to laying Marmox under the bath. I wouldn’t bother & see absolutely no point but if you feel the need for something, a sheet of damp membrane would be just as effective under a bath.

 

[Yukster]

Thanks

 

[tictic]

As long as you use a good trade adhesive and prime the surface your sticking to (if required) then they will stick fine.

The original tiles that you are trying to mimic wouldnt have had a crackle glaze, it was actually a fault that affected the tiles after fixing called crazing.

anyhoo...size wise personally i think the smaller ones look better, and more authentic but its only personal preference !

with a crackle glaze you often have to seal them, so make sure you find out if yours require it

aint read all your thread yukster....

but they sound like crazing tiles,,....so follow tpt advice and seal them...

 

[Yukster]

Thanks for your advice, That's what I plan to do

 

[Yukster]

I was going to start dry-lining today when I noticed that the wall was slightly damp still. I suspect water has been going in via cracked grouting for a while!
Could I dry-line the walls when not completely dry?

I fear that having to let it dry completely will take a could of weeks and in the meantime, I dont have a bathroom Do I need to wait? if so, would it help to use a heater to help it along?