Blown render!! Please Help!

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What the feck was that last statement all about, you are talking complete gobbledegook!!

Have you any idea what ashlar work is J.B.
 
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Me thinks I have you by the gonads.
Answer my question J.B stop relying on your stupidity to back yourself out of a corner.
Why waterproofer in an ashlar jointed wall.....seventh time of asking!
 
WHY ARE WE WAITING......................WHHHHHYYYYYY ARE WE WAITING!

You just dont have an answer do you Mr?
 
legs-akimbo said:
What the f**k was that last statement all about, you are talking complete gobbledegook!!

Have you any idea what ashlar work is J.B.

as you know legs or pretend to know, ashlar work is 3 coat work, firstly a scratch coat and spatterdash coat if necessary, then a floating coat, ruled, rubbed up then scratched, are you still with me, then the finishing coat and remember the best quality of sand should be used for the finishing coat and all stones and inpurities removed. Do you need to know how its marked out. As you know ashlar is decorative and can be described as simulated DRESSED stonework, insidently the name ashlar refers to a type of smooth faced stonework. now do i have to explain why the waterproofer is in the top coat, unfortunatly that paint that freddie talks about wasnt around when lets say central library was being built and other buildings scattered around the world were being built so the waterproofer in the top coat is to protect the decorative finish. thank god freddie never invented that stuff years ago or central library wouldnt look as special in cream.
 
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theres a few things i left out but would like you to fill in, youve got quoins, keystones and something else what is it? what goes where? there are 3 types of joints name them?
 
Freddie said:
Now i know schooling is hard for in bred gypo's, but being as you can write i would have thought you could read------go back and see----i never said i was a plasterer--but i use pva every day all day and i explained many times.

I do have also 2 containers of whatever bond/pva for building use aswell here and a part used gallon of green Evostick waterproofer, and i have quoted from the manufacturers instructions on all 3 items and also my 15 years experience of using pva and also knowing wherenot to use pva.

Now Seamus read !----perhaps this has been the problem all along
quote freddie "go back and see----i never said i was a plasterer--but i use pva every day all day and i explained many times.
if your not a plasterer how can you swear by waterproofers and pva in a plastering environment?
 
legs-akimbo said:
WHY ARE WE WAITING......................WHHHHHYYYYYY ARE WE WAITING!

You just dont have an answer do you Mr?

i just gave you the answer and im waiting on your reply to my question, you cant of gone to bed you were so enthusiastic before.
 
well legs, i cant wait anymore unfortunetly ive got to get my money in so that means cashing my giro tomozz, i probably wont post in the day tomoz, ill be in the pub tomoz with my ***** mates laughing and joking about the advantages of NO waterproofer in a scratch coat and this magical paint freddie talks of. :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
for what it's worth i wouldn't use waterproofer in the scratch coat because it would totally kill the suction meaning that your top coat would be a pain to do, there is no way you would drop a decent sized gable down in one day, it would just take to long therefore leaving a joint line which looks awful .
the only time i would advise for waterproofer to be used on a scratch coat is with a beginner on a small area so that they had plenty of time to get it right.
 
jbonding said:
legs-akimbo said:
What the f**k was that last statement all about, you are talking complete gobbledegook!!

Have you any idea what ashlar work is J.B.

as you know legs or pretend to know, ashlar work is 3 coat work, firstly a scratch coat and spatterdash coat if necessary, then a floating coat, ruled, rubbed up then scratched, are you still with me, then the finishing coat and remember the best quality of sand should be used for the finishing coat and all stones and inpurities removed. Do you need to know how its marked out. As you know ashlar is decorative and can be described as simulated DRESSED stonework, insidently the name ashlar refers to a type of smooth faced stonework. now do i have to explain why the waterproofer is in the top coat, unfortunatly that paint that freddie talks about wasnt around when lets say central library was being built and other buildings scattered around the world were being built so the waterproofer in the top coat is to protect the decorative finish. thank god freddie never invented that stuff years ago or central library wouldnt look as special in cream.

Yes J bonding I would like you to explain why there is water proofer in the top coat of ashlar, again...eigth time now.
I did not ask you what ashlar work is I asked you why add waterproofer to the finish coat . I will ask you again, WHY ?
Why will it not do all those things you are at pains to tell us will happen to plain floated walls. Is there some mysterious ***** dance or spell you can cast?
Your questions on Ashlar work:

Quoins, Keystones, window linings, verge bands, raised bands, plinths, strings. They are the ones I use and am familiar with...Did I miss any?

jointing : 1.Ashlar Jointers come in varying shapes and sizes but standard being 6mm.2 Recessed joints using timber lath,3 Vee hoints using a modified wooden float.4 square snecked rubble stonework joints.....Whoops we are up to four already and J.Bonding only knows three! :rolleyes:

Who says Ashlar has to be three coat work anyway? unless specified it is two coat and I have done more than you can shake a sh***y stick at. Using for your other question on setting out gaugeing staffs, Chalk and string lines, straight edge rules etc etc
Dont try and get one over on me J.B. because I will come back at you with more detail, experience, fact and technicallity that will make your empty little head spin.

Another question for you as well as the waterproofer one ....Go through the process for me of making corner Quoins from a mortar mix, you asked me some questions now I want to know if you have any idea yourself.
 
And here we have D.J who is an experienced spread and is a know it all barsteward just like me ;) , telling you again you are talking anally.
 
legs-akimbo said:
jbonding said:
legs-akimbo said:
What the f**k was that last statement all about, you are talking complete gobbledegook!!

Have you any idea what ashlar work is J.B.

as you know legs or pretend to know, ashlar work is 3 coat work, firstly a scratch coat and spatterdash coat if necessary, then a floating coat, ruled, rubbed up then scratched, are you still with me, then the finishing coat and remember the best quality of sand should be used for the finishing coat and all stones and inpurities removed. Do you need to know how its marked out. As you know ashlar is decorative and can be described as simulated DRESSED stonework, insidently the name ashlar refers to a type of smooth faced stonework. now do i have to explain why the waterproofer is in the top coat, unfortunatly that paint that freddie talks about wasnt around when lets say central library was being built and other buildings scattered around the world were being built so the waterproofer in the top coat is to protect the decorative finish. thank god freddie never invented that stuff years ago or central library wouldnt look as special in cream.

Yes J bonding I would like you to explain why there is water proofer in the top coat of ashlar, again...eigth time now.
I did not ask you what ashlar work is I asked you why add waterproofer to the finish coat . I will ask you again, WHY ?
Why will it not do all those things you are at pains to tell us will happen to plain floated walls. Is there some mysterious ***** dance or spell you can cast?
Your questions on Ashlar work:

Quoins, Keystones, window linings, verge bands, raised bands, plinths, strings. They are the ones I use and am familiar with...Did I miss any?

jointing : 1.Ashlar Jointers come in varying shapes and sizes but standard being 6mm.2 Recessed joints using timber lath,3 Vee hoints using a modified wooden float.4 square snecked rubble stonework joints.....Whoops we are up to four already and J.Bonding only knows three! :rolleyes:

Who says Ashlar has to be three coat work anyway? unless specified it is two coat and I have done more than you can shake a sh***y stick at. Using for your other question on setting out gaugeing staffs, Chalk and string lines, straight edge rules etc etc
Dont try and get one over on me J.B. because I will come back at you with more detail, experience, fact and technicallity that will make your empty little head spin.

Another question for you as well as the waterproofer one ....Go through the process for me of making corner Quoins from a mortar mix, you asked me some questions now I want to know if you have any idea yourself.






thought id just answer you legs, before the pubs open, quote legs "Yes J bonding I would like you to explain why there is water proofer in the top coat of ashlar, so the waterproofer in the top coat is to protect the decorative finish. quote legs "Quoins, Keystones, window linings, verge bands, raised bands, plinths, strings. They are the ones I use and am familiar with...Did I miss any? only the one i asked you for, ill give you a clue it sits next to the keystone.quote legs "jointing : 1.Ashlar Jointers come in varying shapes and sizes but standard being 6mm.2 Recessed joints using timber lath,3 Vee hoints using a modified wooden float.4 square snecked rubble stonework joints.....Whoops we are up to four already and J.Bonding only knows three! :rolleyes:
take a look at one and explain that type of joint you tik ****, your upto 4 :) .know legs any experienced plasterer or a qualified one would know ashlar work is 3 coat.

Dont try and get one over on me J.B. because I will come back at you with more detail, experience, fact and technicallity that will make your empty little head spin.
im still waiting on the facts of pva and waterproofer, honestly legs ive probably forgotten more than you and freddie know on the subject of plastering and rendering. your advising waterproofer in every coat on one post and advise not to put it in the scrastch coat on another post please explain yourself.
 
-dj- said:
for what it's worth i wouldn't use waterproofer in the scratch coat because it would totally kill the suction meaning that your top coat would be a pain to do, there is no way you would drop a decent sized gable down in one day, it would just take to long therefore leaving a joint line which looks awful .
the only time i would advise for waterproofer to be used on a scratch coat is with a beginner on a small area so that they had plenty of time to get it right.

it would totally kill the suction on what? adding waterproofer to your scratch coat evens out the suction for your top coat.
 

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