Blown render!! Please Help!

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legs-akimbo said:
And here we have D.J who is an experienced spread and is a know it all barsteward just like me ;) , telling you again you are talking anally.

calling yourself a know it all,explain why you swore waterproofer goes in every coat and then say on a seperate post it does not matter if you put it in the scratch coat or not, explain proffesor, ps have you got any quals, appart from a spirit LEVEL.
 
If you read my many posts I have always said I use it on a scratch for Harling and dashing but do not in napping or plain floated, yes it does indeed state on the manufacturers recomendations to put it in the scratch coat and I am on record as saying you either should or shouldnt , it is down to your own preference. My preference is not to as I will yet again tell you it is not conductive to cold climate rendering on large expances when you need to avoid piecings.

Now I have asked you two simple questions one now for the "ninth" time and you still have not even attempted to try and answer it. Also J bonding how do you produce Quoin stones
 
You make me laugh J.B. you want qualifications : does your week long certificate from gold trowell hanging on your caravan wall make you an authority...Joker


Answer my questions J bonding TenTimes Now
 
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legs-akimbo said:
If you read my many posts I have always said I use it on a scratch for Harling and dashing but do not in napping or plain floated, yes it does indeed state on the manufacturers recomendations to put it in the scratch coat and I am on record as saying you either should or shouldnt , it is down to your own preference. My preference is not to as I will yet again tell you it is not conductive to cold climate rendering on large expances when you need to avoid piecings.

Now I have asked you two simple questions one now for the "ninth" time and you still have not even attempted to try and answer it. Also J bonding how do you produce Quoin stones

its not down too your own preference or does it say that on the tub aswell, your own preference,lol.
quote legs "I will yet again tell you it is not conductive to cold climate rendering on large expances when you need to avoid piecings."
ever heard of expansion joint? what are they for. youve still not answered my last question, theres still one more thing appart from key stones and quoins raised or not , and i gave you a clue. if youve ever seen an ashlar building and i dont mean this **** they do with colour-rends, were talking sand,cement,lime. The reason for the waterproofer in the top coat is too protect the finish not to protect the building, theres already two other coats doing this. were going off the point here a bit and its turning into more of a slanging match which i may add i think ive got the upper hand.lol. insidently i was in wickes today and b&q and looked on quite a few pva tubs and not one said do not use outside.
quote legs "yes it does indeed state on the manufacturers recomendations to put it in the scratch coat " look at page 8 you said it says on the back put in EVERY COAT. This is why you cant be taken seriously you keep changing your story. ive stated from day one, pva can be used to seal dust but will not provide the key for the render. waterproofer in the scratch coat and not in the top unless in extreme weather conditions ie by the sea or on ashlar work. now ive not wavered on this and answered your questions but not once have i changed the speck, you have on a number of ocassions, do you still back freddie up on the need for paint or the waterproofer wont work?
 
legs-akimbo said:
You make me laugh J.B. you want qualifications : does your week long certificate from gold trowell hanging on your caravan wall make you an authority...Joker


Answer my questions J bonding TenTimes Now
if thats the qualification i had its probably one more than you. have you got quals or not, ide be very surprised if you did.
 
Freddie said:
To be honest jbonding i think everyones sick and tired of it and no ones the slightest interested anymore.

I think the best advice to anyone rendering is to follow the product manufacturers directions on the side of the tin/tub and ignore jbondings cowboy advice of which no one agrees with anyway.

Like i said before stick to tarmacing drives you knacker

believe me im sick and tired of it, you must still be interested or running out of fairy tales. quote freddie "I think the best advice to anyone rendering is to follow the product manufacturers directions on the side of the tin/tub" at last youve got a question right.

ive been plastering 18 years, youve been knocking up fire surrounds in your shed, i think i know a bit more than you as regards work outside of a shed.
 
Freddie said:
Well no one would believe it reading the stuff you put on 12 pages here.

Glad to see you bothered to at last read a post as to what someone other than me told you on page 4 or 5 on how i know of pva and what it can and cant be used for.

visit the thread on "exterior render info" theres someone on there who knows a bit about rendering, but obviously never came back because of the abuse and a matter of fact by your dancing partner. It was tried with me but the difference is ive posted on here before and i know by reading you and your pals posts that your experience is limited as regards plastering and rendering. ive not read any posts by yourself and legs, they may exist ive not checked, as regards internal plastering. and dont tell me your only qualified in one aspect of plastering. your knowledge should stretch to solid plastering, fibrous plastering and external work so dont start me off. the reason this post has lasted is because your unsure of the methods, like i said i looked at 3 different tubs of pva today and in not one of them did it say DONT USE OUTSIDE.
 
Freddie said:
For one more time jbonding i am not a plasterer and have never claimed to be.

I know all about pva cause i have used it for many years and the facts of pva are-----

As a glue--Evostick in my opinion have never been bettered, but all pva glues will only work under massively extreme pressures of wood clamps---all areas to be glued will have to be cleaned and sanded---then the glue joint will not fail and the wood itself will fail before the glue joint.

Get this glued joint wet or expose it to damp and the glue joint itself will fail and the wood will seperate, even water resistant pva glue will go the same way.

When not used for wood glue pva is a sticky substance which is good for dust downing and restricting the water absorbsion of plaster and internal render --screed--etc etc.

It can never be of any use outside because of the examples i gave you earlier in this post because its worst enemy when it has been allowed to cure once is water--which is why any wood glued with pva and put outside will fall apart.

Now apply that same principle to the OUTSIDE of a house exposed to the elements and the outerskin of a building having the same moisture content of the surrounding air and you have a pure disaster--END OF STORY-------and i challenge any pva manufacturer to say their product will not be affected by the exterior elements.

As regards other things i posted i posted them from whats on the instructions of those products which are left over from doing my house.

freddie ive not once questioned its use as a wood glue, like i said on its uses wood glue is one of them, i can understand why you think it cant be used in external uses because youve seen the effect it has as a glue for wood, when it comes into contact with water. pva mixed 10-1 will not have the same effect when it comes into contact with water as 2-1 or in most cases you use it for 0-1, you agree? this is the point im making mixed at the right consistancy it will seal dust and reduce the suction in the background, but relying on it for the key is not one of its uses externally.
 
Freddie said:
Unless pva is subject to extreme pressure it is useless as a glue as it will only mildy stick 2 substances together, it is the pressure of clamps thatmust exclude air??? that makes it a supurb glu.

When used else where whether watered or not it is great for the uses you and me have just described but NEVER OUTSIDE and NEVER WHERE IT WILL GET CONSTANTLY DAMP OR WET.

Once it has got wet after it has cured it is never the same and basically useless afterwards.

Being subject to constant damp--i.e. outside or in a bathroom it will also lose it's use and that is why the tile adhesive manufacturers waver warrenty on their product.

You advised to mix with a slurry mix and apply OUTSIDE which means constant damp and/or wet----WILL NEVER WORK--CAN NEVER WORK and i challenge anyone and any manufacturer to that eg---i once made a small bird table out of left over glued wood which had been used with neat not watered down best Evostick glue ( pva ) and it all fell apart in days.

I also know of someone who made a draining board using pva glue and that fell apart aswell

I get covered in it when glueing up on my hands and clothes and it washes off wet or dry no problem.

Once cured water destroys it's properties

i ve just remembered it said dont use in swimming pools and fish tanks, probably the wet areas your talking about. houses are rendered in countrys that rarely get rain would pva work here? i honestly looked at 3 pva tubs today and in not one did it say dont use out side and im not making it up. ive said this on a number of occasions and i stand by it, its simple people visit B&Q on this forum, or wicks ,someone read it and dont be put of by legs or freddie dissagreeing with you, let us know what it says on the tub and does it say do not use outside/externally. thats four tubs in total.

quote freddie"Being subject to constant damp--i.e. outside or in a bathroom it will also lose it's use and that is why the tile adhesive manufacturers waver warrenty on their product."
outside doesnt necessary mean constant damp, how many manufacturers do you know who will warrant their stuff on someone elses?
i thought most off these manufacturers guaranteed their grout?

quote freddie "You advised to mix with a slurry mix and apply OUTSIDE which means constant damp and/or wet----WILL NEVER WORK--CAN NEVER WORK " look on the back of the pva it also advises on mixing with a mix, read it it will tell you what for and the mix ratio. pva mixed with sand and cement no longer becomes pva on its own so theres a difference.

quote freddie "I also know of someone who made a draining board using pva glue and that fell apart aswell" oh do you now, and how are they.

quote freddie "I get covered in it when glueing up on my hands and clothes and it washes off wet or dry no problem." dont put on as much.

quote freddie "i once made a small bird table out of left over glued wood which had been used with neat not watered down best Evostick glue ( pva ) and it all fell apart in days." freddie have you ever heard of such a substance, hard tooo break, cold tooo touch, with a sharp end, have you freddie, have you ever heard of such a thing, it is made of a shiney metal, and sharrpened to a point,this is not a riddle or tail, have you heard of the nail.
 
There are different glues that you use on wood jbonding for different reasons.

The outside skin or course of your building will always be around the same dampness of the surrounding air and we live in a damp climate
 

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