Blown render!! Please Help!

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legs-akimbo said:
Well thanks be to f**k we wont be building another 70,000 houses this year with waterproofer in the floating coat on a predominantly napp finished render.....Do you even know what a napp finish is and just how many have you done if you do?
Because now us thick ole Paddies know that all our renders are gonna fail cus we never followed the J bonding work ethic we will be saved . God bless ya, No more Waterproofer , no more waterproofer Just one point ...how come I am yet to see any blown, failed, perished renders anywhere when every single one bar none of the tens of thousands of houses where I live have all used this obviously incorrect working practice according to you. Dont suppose you would care to show some of your work up on this forum then J bonding would you ...now theres a challenge.
Give it up J bonding you have been well and truly crushed stick to dot and dabbing wimpey houses and lets those who know their stuff do the talking.

Dont put us thick paddies in the same thick bracket your in. you didnt render all the houses you tik ****. how old are they if there only ten years old id start thinking about moving, or stop talking ****e in the pub about how you built the estate you live on.
 
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Freddie said:
jbonding said:
Freddie said:
Does it say for use externally?

Why when your wall has been prepared to accept cement render as has been done for years do you cover or mix a sticky elastic goo all over it ? what possible benefit could it be?

Wht oh why wouldnt you put waterproofer in the finish coat of render?

Why not paint? i understand that a building has to breath but as Oilman will tell you that paints are designed to let that happen.

You are trying to back track now and muddle around.

You said --NO WATERPROOFER IN THE FINISH COAT OF RENDER.

You said --APPLY UNIBOND/PVA TO THE WALL OF THE HOUSE WITH SAND AND CEMENT
so youve not read it, cant you get someone else to read it for you,lol read it the benefits are it controls suction. the reason for not putting the waterproofer in the top coat appart from ashlar work is if any water gets behind, which it will, it wont get out as easily and when the frost comes you know your phones gonna be busy. if you were ever taught about plastering and rendering and i dont mean of your mate or forums you would of been told render is a finish, the colour and texture can be done without paint. applying pva mixed with water cement and a couple of handfulls of sand mixed too a slurry and applied with a roller similar to a spatterdash coat is a problem?

Her we go waffle waffle muddle it all up and try and confuse to hide your errors, i havent quoted you word for word because your errors are so blatently obvious.

Nobodies disputing the cleanliness and sound prep job done to the wall just your ridiculas reasoning for using unibond/pva in an outside application where it will do nothing but be depremental to the job.

Your reasoning for no waterproofer in the finish coat may have some standing as regards frost damage if it wasnt for the same thing being able to hapen if the water got behind the scratch coat and frost damage blew that off the wall in the same manner you describe, infact your argument on this is self defeating as it is obvious that waterproofer should be applied to all coats as the more ways of keeping water out the better and the same applies to paint as paint is also a protective covering against the elements and letting the surface underneath the paint breath at the same time.

Your arguments dont stand up and you cant even answer basic questions as regards the use of unibond/pva in exterior situations

you dont have to quote me word for word pick out thread and say.
 
You truly are one ignorant pig thick imbecille J bonding ..I have allready outlined for you the Irish extract from Good working practices, what the feck do you think... I made it up, my ******* headed little friend?
I dont live on an estate but a house I built and plastered myself on three acres of land in the countryside, and before you ever raised your sorry little misinformed head on this or other forums then the likes of myself and dj who has just reiterated what I have tried to tell you...And why, because he KNOWS have been around for a lot longer than you and our knowledge is second to none. Freddie is probably more informed about pva than any of us and as for mudster ..well there is nothing I could possibly add to reiterate his depth of knowledge in his field, so for you to clutch at such straws as to detract from what he has stated as pure and simple fact is pathetic in the extreme. For gods sake accept the fact that you are wrong, how many people of high merit do you need to be told by and move on.
How incredibly dense are you not to be able to grasp the fact that there are thousands upon thousands of properties in this country that have waterproofer and no pva within them as I have stated dating back from before you wetre even borne ...chancer. And guess what they are still standing.... D... O Y...O...U U...N...D...E...R...S...T...A...N...D
Y...E...T...?
 
-dj- said:
legs-akimbo said:
but there is not a man I have met who can do my job better than me!

except for me eh legs ;)

anyway on the point of pva. there is no way i would ever use it in rendering an external wall.
you have legs who has been at the plastering rendering game a lot of years who knows where and when to use pva, mudster who's reputation should preceed him and geo, err freddie who has spent many years making dressers/ fire surrounds etc i have seen excellent photos and advice from all three of them. if i was after advice in certain fields then i would not need to ask a second opinion after asking one of these three.

me, well i have been in the game some 15 years and i have never had a problem with rendering and i have never used pva in the mix as has been said on numerous occasions pva comes back which is why it shouldn't be used outside outside.
you saw mudsters post as to why you shouldn't use pva so i wil post the reply i made on the origional screwfix thread of where it can be used with perfect results, i would only ever use pva on an internal wall when i'm skimming over origional plaster. in short don't use pva in a rendering mix and the origional rendered wall probably failed because of this factor...........




dj.

Posts: 1,669
Registered: May 1, 2004
Re: Tiling On Concrete
Posted: Aug 26, 2004 5:28 AM Reply


handyandy
i have pasted most of your answer from mudster with a few adjustments for treating before plastering.....

When you treat a surface with PVA it partly soaks in and partly sits on the surface of the substrate much in the same way as wallpaper paste.

If PVA gets wet it becomes slightly live again, it doesn't completely return to it's liquid state but it becomes sticky. this is where it is ideal to skim

When you spread plaster onto the wall, the water in the plaster makes the PVA live but stops the plaster from penetrating the substrate and providing a mechanical grip, thus giving a barrier from the existing wall plus an adhesive for your new skim.
there is no need to skim whilst pva is still tacky as, with your new skim, it 'comes back' with moisture conterary to popular belief.
hope this clears a few things up &
thanx to mudster.
dj.
well said, we are now starting to grasp its uses, ive never used it in a mix. indoor use for reskimming is sound but as a machanical key on render its not. its a man made key, some people cant grasp this, scratch coat (mechanical) pva (man made). but it has its uses in rendering ie controling suction and sealing dust.
 
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legs-akimbo said:
You truly are one ignorant pig thick imbecille J bonding ..I have allready outlined for you the Irish extract from Good working practices, what the f**k do you think... I made it up, my **** headed little friend?
I dont live on an estate but a house I built and plastered myself on three acres of land in the countryside, and before you ever raised your sorry little misinformed head on this or other forums then the likes of myself and dj who has just reiterated what I have tried to tell you...And why, because he KNOWS have been around for a lot longer than you and our knowledge is second to none. Freddie is probably more informed about pva than any of us and as for mudster ..well there is nothing I could possibly add to reiterate his depth of knowledge in his field, so for you to clutch at such straws as to detract from what he has stated as pure and simple fact is pathetic in the extreme. For gods sake accept the fact that you are wrong, how many people of high merit do you need to be told by and move on.
How incredibly dense are you not to be able to grasp the fact that there are thousands upon thousands of properties in this country that have waterproofer and no pva within them as I have stated dating back from before you wetre even borne ...chancer. And guess what they are still standing.... D... O Y...O...U U...N...D...E...R...S...T...A...N...D
Y...E...T...?
dont out line it, print it without your bits added in brackets just were it was gonna mention suction and shrinkage, dont be ****ed off because someone questioned you on waterproofer in a top coat or scratch coat and dont think because youve rendered a few houses in ireland and youve posted on here a few times that your the dogs *******s, what quals have you got? dont answer i know you dont need them. dont speak on behalf of other people with knowledge to put yourself in the same bracket, most of your posts would put people off posting again especially when you tell them to refer to the big book. what a prick. i read most posts on here and rarely dissagree, maybe give another way off doing it. i hope my posts are helpful or informative but when do i become a senior member like you. ive not dissagreed with the other threads by dj or mudster but every jobs different.
 
[quote="jbonding]well said, we are now starting to grasp its uses.[/quote]



patronising pr*ck
 
-dj- said:
[quote="jbonding]well said, we are now starting to grasp its uses.



patronising pr*ck[/quote]

why am i being patronising? and a prick, all i meant was it has other uses appart from wood glue.
 
Freddie said:
jbonding said:
legs-akimbo said:
Bravo mudster, and as you would be well aware there are many a tiler still using pva in a detremental manner as you have outlined in your superb post. In the same manner there are plasterers doing exactly the same thing and J bonding is a prime example of a tradesman being over reliant on a product that does a specific job but is simply not a cure for all ills. Your post more or less reiterates Freddies points in full and while it is all well and good being able to relate to certain pdf's or extracts from the internet J B only the wealth of experience will tell you what works and what does not...Forget what the manufacturers tell you ( to a large extent) learn from those who know better and be humble enough to take heed and generate an informed opinion, I may be blowing up my own ar*e, but there is not a man I have met who can do my job better than me!

im not over reliant on the stuff, i use it when its appropriate not for cures, do a search yourself to back up what your saying about pva and waterproofer in the top coat and you cant use freddies posts,lol. forget what the manufacturers tell you because legs gives his own guarantees,photos, im sure when you come to sell these will look nice if you put them in a frame.

And what do you give--sweet FA !

The mans a waste of space and aint worth the effort of explanation, he is waffling around dodging issues and questions asked of him because he posted pure b o l l o x---i only hope that man didnt follow you advice cause if it was me i would take your legs off for costing me all that cash and heartache.

Jbonding i would stick to giving advice on how to clear up with a broom or better still get a job on Blue Peter with your milk bottle tops--stickyback plastic and kiddies glue/pva

All my works guaranteed, ive used the same number for over 9 years so theres no hiding. Please make the effort to back up what your saying with facts. what advise did you give him? dont assume you could take my legs off. I cannot beleive you are dismissing pva as just wood glue, how many walls have you rendered? and why if you walked into any builders yard, b&q,wicks or any other hardware store their selling litres of kids glue , ive not seen many kids in there buying it.
 
So, i definitley won't be using PVA tomorrow!!

But a 5 : 1 mix with splash of rendamix, right?

(and no i haven't done much rendering but i ignorantly thought 'well how hard can it be? i've seen it done often enough!' never again tho, leave it to the pros and the micks, just stick to inside jobs from now on good old british gypsum) - and PVA ;)

Thanks for the comments!!
 
have you raked the joints to provide a key, this will help the scratch coat to key, 5-1 is too weak for your scratch coat. mix 3-1 for scratch and 5-1 for your top coat ;)
 
jbonding said:
mix up the unibond with some cement and a handfull of sand and apply with a roller and let it dry, make sure you rake the joints this is the key.


Wot no uni bond? :eek:
 

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