Blown render!! Please Help!

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legs-akimbo said:
jbonding said:
mix up the unibond with some cement and a handfull of sand and apply with a roller and let it dry, make sure you rake the joints this is the key.


Wot no uni bond? :eek:
its not necessary, the joints have been raked out, but like i said it controls suction and seals dust, but a mechanical key will work better.
 
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i take it with this gap of 24 hours that legs and freddie went to b&q today, picked up a 5ltr tub of pva and got one of the assistants to read it to them, i rest my case :LOL:
 
you asked to see some info to back up my claims J.B. so here you are and an apology over the fact that i was right will be gracefully accepted.

http://www.everbuild.co.uk/categories.php?cID=45&PHPSESSID=22c0eae7eee80eecc69c846e23986d5b

Everbuild products : item 202 waterproofer.

On the back of my 5 gallon tub of waterproofer made by evo stik :

Evo stik waterproofer is a concentrated liquid waterproofer and plasticiser. It provides long term protection against dampness and driving rain. It is suitable for external renderings and as an aid to dry harling,pebble dashing rough casting etc.
In multi coat work use evo plast in every coat at the same ratio ( reference to mix ratios).

Now I do believe that categorically and emphatically puts that one well and truly to bed once and for all.
I do hope no one comes knocking on your door to come and re do their rendering because you omitted to put any waterproofer in your gauge. If indeed you have ever done any. :LOL:
 
jbonding said:
i take it with this gap of 24 hours that legs and freddie went to b&q today, picked up a 5ltr tub of pva and got one of the assistants to read it to them, i rest my case :LOL:

Perhaps you should read my posts a little more slowly then you will realise that in every one I have stated that uni bond has its uses .....and yes I use it too, However I dont use it externally and I dont use it in every application or situation. I know what it does, what makes you think for one milli second I dont. It ****ses me off however to read so many ill informed ignorant people extolling pva in a million and one applications. Answer me this. Do you or do you not think that the application of pva on dougalhouses walls had a contributory effect in his failed rendering. After all some one told him to use it, or at least like so many he holds with the pre conceived idea that it can literallly be used anywhere and everywhere. If you can not see the obviousness in this then there really is no point in prolonging this argument any longer.

Questions for J bonding.

What is a napp finish have you done any.?
Are external paints detremental to rendered serfaces.?
Do you now accept that waterproofer is used in top coat rendering ?
Are people generally over enthused with the merits of pva ?
 
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legs-akimbo said:
you asked to see some info to back up my claims J.B. so here you are and an apology over the fact that i was right will be gracefully accepted.

http://www.everbuild.co.uk/categories.php?cID=45&PHPSESSID=22c0eae7eee80eecc69c846e23986d5b

Everbuild products : item 202 waterproofer.

On the back of my 5 gallon tub of waterproofer made by evo stik :

Evo stik waterproofer is a concentrated liquid waterproofer and plasticiser. It provides long term protection against dampness and driving rain. It is suitable for external renderings and as an aid to dry harling,pebble dashing rough casting etc.
In multi coat work use evo plast in every coat at the same ratio ( reference to mix ratios).

Now I do believe that categorically and emphatically puts that one well and truly to bed once and for all.
I do hope no one comes knocking on your door to come and re do their rendering because you omitted to put any waterproofer in your gauge. If indeed you have ever done any. :LOL:

hey legs i read it then read it but still cant find were it says Quote "In multi coat work use evo plast in every coat at the same ratio ( reference to mix ratios)." if its on the back of the tub im sure they would put it on the link, it might be on there i just cant find it. It doesnt mention scratch coat or top coat, surely there not saying mix the scratch coat and top coat the same :eek:
 
legs-akimbo said:
jbonding said:
i take it with this gap of 24 hours that legs and freddie went to b&q today, picked up a 5ltr tub of pva and got one of the assistants to read it to them, i rest my case :LOL:

Perhaps you should read my posts a little more slowly then you will realise that in every one I have stated that uni bond has its uses .....and yes I use it too, However I dont use it externally and I dont use it in every application or situation. I know what it does, what makes you think for one milli second I dont. It p****d me off however to read so many ill informed ignorant people extolling pva in a million and one applications. Answer me this. Do you or do you not think that the application of pva on dougalhouses walls had a contributory effect in his failed rendering. After all some one told him to use it, or at least like so many he holds with the pre conceived idea that it can literallly be used anywhere and everywhere. If you can not see the obviousness in this then there really is no point in prolonging this argument any longer.

Questions for J bonding.

What is a napp finish have you done any.?
Are external paints detremental to rendered serfaces.?
Do you now accept that waterproofer is used in top coat rendering ?
Are people generally over enthused with the merits of pva ?

ide say the rendering would of failed anyway due to lack of key and too much suction, relying on the pva to stick it is not gonna happen thats why i advised the joints to be raked out and the pva to control any suction and seal dust, i would water the wall down but people on here posting for information are not as quick so pva will slow the setting down and theres nowt wrong with it aslong as a key has been provided. there must be more than 3 people reading this post , if anyone has got any pva or is going to b&q tomoz have alook and write down what it says as regards rendering, because anything out of my keypad is fantasy. I havent done a napp finish or if i did i never knew it was called that enlighten me im always willing to learn. i would say yes about external paints in most cases, like ive said in extreme weather conditions and ashlar work yes, maybe some people rely on pva too much but it has its uses and used correctly theres nothing wrong with it.
 
And so it continues. :LOL:

Well i've done it again now, thanks to all of your advice and didn't go anywhere near a tub of PVA, (i'm sh*t scared of using the stuff now in case anybody sees me) so i'm gonna keep my fingers crossed and i'll keep you posted. (if you're interested)

Anyway have i thanked everyone for their time :D .

I can understand why my render failed the first time (incorrect use of :evil: PVA) but as i didn't use any the second time i'm still a bit confused as to why it failed then. I just hope it was because i used too much plasticiser / waterproofer in both coats and that i used a ratio of
4 : 1 in both scratch and top :!:
 
Freddie said:
Jbonding you get more and more pathetic with your waffle.

You dont use pva/unibond in exterior situations for rendering----correct.

You use waterproofer in the finish coat of exterior rendering----correct

That is all there is too it and you were completly wrong and gave out wrong and very bad advice.

You can argue about the other c**p all day long which no body is actually disagreeing with but on these tw0 points you are 100% wrong and may have caused this mans render job to fail.

One other thing you keep now banging on about raking the block work joints out---you are actually giving the impression that the render is only going to stick to the raked out mortar joints and not to this mans blocks----which again is totally wrong.

Also if you rake all the joints out--to what depth do you instruct to do this cause any depth really is going to weaken the block work as if you raked out 5mm depth that would be more than 5% of the total strength of the mortar joints and 5mm depth is nothing-------are you saying your enquirer should take out something like 15mm a good half inch??

I think you make it up as you go along and throw in bits of rubbish to confuse the issue, i dont believe you are a plasterer just some cowboy

like i said freddie stick to knocking up fire places with mdf and a router (hard) not. rake the joints out enough to provide a key, weaken the blockwork, you make me laugh, its being rendered the tik ****. buy some pva and read the side ,like i keep saying. you dont believe im a plasterer and you are? ive told you about the waterproofer, proove me wrong.
 
dougalhouse said:
And so it continues. :LOL:

Well i've done it again now, thanks to all of your advice and didn't go anywhere near a tub of PVA, (i'm sh*t scared of using the stuff now in case anybody sees me) so i'm gonna keep my fingers crossed and i'll keep you posted. (if you're interested)

Anyway have i thanked everyone for their time :D .

I can understand why my render failed the first time (incorrect use of :evil: PVA) but as i didn't use any the second time i'm still a bit confused as to why it failed then. I just hope it was because i used too much plasticiser / waterproofer in both coats and that i used a ratio of
4 : 1 in both scratch and top :!:

alright D so the debate carries on it failed on both occasions pva on one and none on the other so by rights we can nearly dismiss the problem(PVA) of failure. :LOL:
 
Freddie said:
dougalhouse said:
And so it continues. :LOL:

Well i've done it again now, thanks to all of your advice and didn't go anywhere near a tub of PVA, (i'm sh*t scared of using the stuff now in case anybody sees me) so i'm gonna keep my fingers crossed and i'll keep you posted. (if you're interested)

Anyway have i thanked everyone for their time :D .

I can understand why my render failed the first time (incorrect use of :evil: PVA) but as i didn't use any the second time i'm still a bit confused as to why it failed then. I just hope it was because i used too much plasticiser / waterproofer in both coats and that i used a ratio of
4 : 1 in both scratch and top :!:

It could have been that a film of pva was still on the wall

make your mind up freddie you 'r sounding desperate quote freddie"What i would say is never use pva outside even in a mix as you are just sticking things to the pvs instead of allowing the normal chemical cementing to take place. so in actuall fact the pva should still be on the back of the render that came off. it failed because of lack of key. Now doing the mixes in the top coat and scratch coat the same, can cause problems but which ones, ill leave you to answer smart arse.
 
Freddie said:
No one can understand what you are on about now jbonding and you still havent anserewd the the questions on waterproofer i asked earlier.

As regards pva--i can tell you if i leave a pice of wood i have glued together in the ultimate way of extreme pressure of wood clamps which give many tons of pressure which is where pva comes into its own ---- well if i leave that wood outside and it gets wet from moisture or rain then the glue will fail and the wood seperate at the glue joint where as normally the wood will break elsewhere and never at the glue joint--------thus pva should never be used in damp or wet circunstances--------THAT IS WHY I KNOW YOU ARE TALKING C R A P

Dougal you wont remove the pva like that with a wire brush you would needed to have power washed it, you may have scratched parts off but not maybe enough to give your render a key to the blocks.

I actually powerwashed a small wall and removed any remnants of old render this way but the one thing that wouldnt move was the slurry mix of 2-1--so it just shows you how that stuff sticks and there was no pva/unibond it it either
what happens to wood when it gets wet? this maybe why it splits. would you say reskimming a wall with pva was a wet circumstance? have you read the side yet, and which question on waterproofer havent i answered. quote freddie "I actually powerwashed a small wall and removed any remnants of old render this way but the one thing that wouldnt move was the slurry mix of 2-1--so it just shows you how that stuff sticks and there was no pva/unibond it it either" why did this render fail?
 

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