Boarding Out Stud Wall Advice

[hamd01]

Hi all
I have recently boarded out a room (with lots of help of these forums), and Im about ready to start plasterboarding it.

Ive never boarded out before, so this is going to be a learning curve for me. Im a few dozen videos into that learning! Last thing I want to do is make life harder for the plaster, and I just had a couple of questions of things I dont understand. Any advice would be appreciated.

I understand that tapered edges are better when butted together, to create a good join. What do you use going into corners, either internal or extermal corners. Do you buy seperate sheets of square edge plasterboard for these edges, or would you cut the edge off the tapered edge sheets?

Im doing it on my own, and as above Ive not done it before. I know you can get huge 2.4m sheets, but for one man I think these would be tough to handle...however, Im concerned that if I get the smaller sheets, the top/bottom edges arent tapered, so I would imagine this makes life harder for the plaster. What size do people normally order when doing the install solo?

Im planning to use screws. Should I coutersink, or just screw them in gong a little deper than the surface, and then cover them with filler? If covering with filler, does each screw need priming...or are plasterboard screws pre-primed?

Thanks guys...open to any other tips which might be useful for a complete noob!

 

[aveatry]

I will leave the other questions but as for the screws you can get a little attachment that stops the screw going in too deep, you dont want to break the paper surface around the screw.
These

Drywall Dimpler Set

Pack of ten 25mm x 1/4" hex shank PH2 bits, with depth stop to eliminate damage to plasterboard.

www.toolstation.com

 

[aveatry]

You said that you have watched lots of Utube but you are asking if you need to countersink no - do not countersink

Be careful you are not watching US vids as they do things differently.

 

[hamd01]

You said that you have watched lots of Utube but you are asking if you need to countersink no - do not countersink

Be careful you are not watching US vids as they do things differently.

Ive seen videos where the use dot and dab + nails (not screws) and some videos where they dont seem to countersink at all.... but I think as you say I may have been watching some US ones. Thank you.

 

[aveatry]

Ive seen videos where the use dot and dab + nails (not screws) and some videos where they dont seem to countersink at all.... but I think as you say I may have been watching some US ones. Thank you.

Ah I was assuming that it was a studded wood wall because you mentioned screws. If it is a brick wall then its the dot and dab method and no screws are involved.

 

[hamd01]

I will leave the other questions but as for the screws you can get a little attachment that stops the screw going in too deep, you dont want to break the paper surface around the screw.
These

Drywall Dimpler Set

Pack of ten 25mm x 1/4" hex shank PH2 bits, with depth stop to eliminate damage to plasterboard.

www.toolstation.com

Thats genius! I cant quite tell how it works from the photo, but assuming the bit holds your screw, and when your screw is at the right depth it shampfers around the screw hole?

Assume they come in a pack of 10 because the impact driver will wipe the bits out at a rate of knotts?

 

[hamd01]

Ah I was assuming that it was a studded wood wall because you mentioned screws. If it is a brick wall then its the dot and dab method and no screws are involved.

It is a stud wall.... yes I couldnt quite understand why people were dot and dabbing to a stud wall either.... video

 

[aveatry]

Thats genius! I cant quite tell how it works from the photo, but assuming the bit holds your screw, and when your screw is at the right depth it shampfers around the screw hole?

Why do they come as a set of 10?

That was just an example of them, you can buy them singularly and sometimes you get one in a box of plasterboard screws

There is no chamfering for plasterboard - you do not want to break the paper surface and the shroud on the bit stops the screw from going in too deep.

 

[aveatry]

It is a stud wall.... yes I couldnt quite understand why people were dot and dabbing to a stud wall either.... video

That is bizarre

 

[hamd01]

That was just an example of them, you can buy them singularly and sometimes you get one in a box of plasterboard screws

There is no chamfering for plasterboard - you do not want to break the paper surface and the shroud on the bit stops the screw from going in too deep.

thank you.

 

[aveatry]

I used these ones as they had better reviews https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-6-...VV4FQBh30qS7kEAQYAiABEgL4w_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

And the idea of a box of 10 is that just like any other driver bit - they were and looses their edge and then start slipping so replace them for new ones. the screfix picture better describes them as you can see that the bit only sticks out a little way

 

[aveatry]

A tip - dont scrim and buy the cheap screws I had some no name things and had old seasoned joists to screw into and some of the screws snapped. So I used Timco and they are much better. Sorry TYMCO not timco
If you make a mistake and go in at an angle or something and break the paper surface the best thing to do is take the screw out and put another one in next to it.

 

[hamd01]

A tip - dont scrim and buy the cheap screws I had some no name things and had old seasoned joists to screw into and some of the screws snapped. So I used Timco and they are much better. Sorry TYMCO not timco
If you make a mistake and go in at an angle or something and break the paper surface the best thing to do is take the screw out and put another one in next to it.

Are these the ones mate?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TIMco-00032DRY-Philips-Drywall-Screw/dp/B0014FFGTK/ref=asc_df_B0014FFGTK?mcid=68f959bda5dc3db3b4bb741fbe565bb9&th=1&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=697256138067&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9619975946658878044&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046721&hvtargid=pla-771315377901&gad_source=1

 

[aveatry]

Yes but you need to research what length you will need. And work out how many you will need - it will be more than you think at the correct distance centres.

 

[aveatry]

Also maybe just me but try an use as bigger piece of board you can which will mean less joints that may or may not crack. If you have two studs vertical and the board only goes half way up then add a stud horizontal at the meeting point between the top of one board and the bottom of the other, dont leave any floating edges.